Thanksgiving Day in the United States is next week. Last year, we had our friend Karl Engel teach you how to cook and carve a Thanksgiving turkey like a man.  But a man needs stuffing to go along with that bird, so we brought Karl back to show you how to make a killer stuffing that will please any Thanksgiving crowd. Karl heads up Pigcasso, an award winning BBQ team. He’s been featured on the Travel Channel and Food Network, so Karl knows his stuff. Today Karl gives us a rundown on how to give a traditional Thanksgiving staple a twist with his Manly Cornbread Stuffing. Thanks Karl!

Manly Cornbread Stuffing

By Karl “The Pigman” Engel

(Very large batch, serves 12 to 15)

Ingredients

• 2 boxes Jiffy cornbread mix
• 1 package Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix
• 1 head or bunch of celery
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 3 beaten eggs
• Chicken stock or broth (I use Swanson, but it can be homemade or any brand)

Directions

The day before you cook and serve the dressing: cook the Jiffy cornbread mix according to package directions and let cool. Clean and chop celery, including leaves of the heart. Chop onion and wilt or sauté it in a tablespoon of butter, let cool. When the cornbread is cool, crumble it into a large bowl, add most or all of the package of Pepperidge Farm Cornbread Dressing Mix, stir to combine. Next add the celery and onion and stir to combine. Cover and let sit in a cool dry place overnight to allow flavors to develop.

When you are ready to cook it, add chicken stock or broth and beaten eggs to the cornbread mix, then stir to thoroughly combine. There is not an exact amount of broth, but add enough so that the mixture resembles a very course and thick cake batter.

Heat oven to 375. In a very large, heavy pan or two iron skillets, add enough oil or shortening to cover the pan. When the oven is ready, melt shortening or heat oil in the oven till it is smoking (watch carefully). Remove and immediately pour the dressing batter into the hot pan or pans. This helps to create a tasty crust. Bake 45 minutes or until it is cooked through and a tester comes out clean.

Note: because the Pepperidge Farm Dressing Mix is pre-seasoned with herbs, this adds just the right amount of traditional sage and “Thanksgiving” taste to the mix, eliminating the need to add further seasonings. This is a traditional recipe handed down through several generations of our family. Enjoy!

What are your favorite stuffing recipes? Are you a cook the stuffing inside the bird or outside the bird kind of guy? Share your tips with us in the comments!

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It’s a scene familiar to any fan of war movies: old sarge is pacing the new recruits’ barracks, heels clicking on the floor, his eyes bulging as he inspects the soldiers’ bunks.  Tension fills the air; the men break out in a sweat. He checks to make sure each man’s uniform is just right, his boots are shined, and his clothes have been neatly folded in his locker. But the moment of truth comes when the sergeant pulls a quarter from his pocket and bounces it off the bed to see just how tightly it’s made. If it doesn’t bounce, the soldier usually has to make it again and do 50 push-ups as penance.

Why Make Your Bed

The military drills its recruits over and over again in the skill of bed-making. The men have to do it just right, and they have to do it in a matter of minutes.

It’s easy to wonder why the heck the military would make such a big deal about how a soldier’s bed is made. But bunk and locker drills are simply a means to an end. And that end is developing a soldier’s discipline and attention to even the smallest details. Plus, it ensures that order is maintained in the barracks, which allows the enlisted man to concentrate on more important matters.

Discipline and order are both things that can benefit civilians, too. According to my friend Gretchen Ruben, author of the Happiness Project, making your bed neatly and tightly every day can actually increase your overall happiness. Men looking to get their lives together often want to tackle big goals while the rest of their life is a disorganized mess. Get the little things in your life under control, and the sense of confidence and satisfaction you’ll feel will help you move on the big things. So if you’re looking to move your life out of neutral, making your bed first thing in the morning might be the best way to start.

How to Make Your Bed Like a Soldier

Alright. So mom/sarge/crazy camp counselor was right. Making your bed every day is important. But if you’re going to do something, you might as well do it right. Today we’re going to show you how to make a bed like a soldier based on a guide from a WWII army base called Camp Crowder. Atten-hut! Let’s get down to business soldier!

Spread the bottom sheet. Most people today use a set of sheets that includes a fitted bottom sheet. You simply spread the sheet and fit the corners around the mattress. If you don’t have fitted sheets because you’re old school, you have a few more steps to take. But the pay off is a tightness that you can never achieve with a fitted sheet.

Stand at the foot of the bed and spread the sheet evenly across it. Once you have the sheet spread evenly, you now must employ the bed making secret known by soldiers and nurses across the world.

The secret to a tight bed: The Hospital Corner. The hospital corner is the bread and butter of making a neat bed. Many people are intimidated by hospital corners, but with some practice you’ll be able to make them in a snap.

• Starting at the foot of the bed, tuck the end of the sheet between the mattress and box springs. Don’t just bunch the sheet between the mattress and the box springs, rather ensure that the sheet lays smoothly between the two.

• Go to the head of the bed and pull the other end of the sheet taut. Tuck the sheet under the mattress as you did at the foot of the bed.

• Go back to the foot of the bed and pick a corner to make your first hospital corner. Grab the sheet draping from the side about 16 inches from the foot of the bed (Diagram A).

• Place one finger on top of the corner, lifting the sheet with the other hand (Diagram B).

• Tuck lower drape under the mattress (Diagram C).

• Hold the corner in place and bring the sheet over. You want the fold on the top sheet to form a 45-degree angle. That’s standard for the Army (Diagram D).

• Tuck the rest of the side of the sheet under the mattress, working your way to the head of the bed (Diagram E). Repeat on all four corners of the bed. As you tuck, take your hand and smooth out any wrinkles that may form in the sheet on the top of the bed.

Spread the top sheet. Take the top sheet and spread it out over the bottom sheet. The end of the sheet with the large hem goes at the head of the bed. Align the top of the sheet with the head of the mattress.

Spread the blanket. Spread your blanket on top of the sheet. Leave about six inches between the top edge of the blanket and the sheet.

Make hospital corners with the sheet and blanket. Now that you have the sheet and blanket spread out, it’s time to bust out some more hospital corners. Start off by tucking in the end of the sheet at the foot of the bed between the mattress and box springs. Remember to make sure they lay smoothly between the mattress and box spring and are not just bunched under.

Pick a corner at the foot of the bed and make another hospital corner as described above. Remember to get your 45-degree angle and to continually smooth any wrinkles that form while you’re tucking. If you really want to go for the Army look with your bed, don’t tuck in the excess overhang on each side just yet. If you don’t care for the Army look or you have a significant other that wants her fluffy comforter on top, go ahead and tuck in the sides.

Fold the top of the blanket and sheet down. Go to the head of the bed and stretch the blanket as close as you can to the sheet hem. Fold the sheet hem over the blanket like so:

Fold both the sheet and blanket over approximately four inches. Fold again leaving 18 inches from the head of the mattress to the fold. Now you can tuck in the overhang on the sides. Remember to smooth out those wrinkles! It should look something like this:

Place pillow on top. Just place your pillow at the head of your bed and you’re done. Today’s Army often places a dustcover on top of the pillow. It’s basically another blanket. But you don’t have to do that. Now take out a quarter and bounce it off the bed. If everything is nice and tight, it should bounce right back into your hand. Good work soldier!

Comforters. If you’re like most people today, you probably put a comforter on top of your blanket and sheet. While comforters are cozy, you can’t bounce a quarter off a bed with one on top. No worries. As long as the sheets and blankets are nice and tight underneath, there’s no need to do push-ups. It’ll feel mighty good slipping underneath a nicely made bed at night.

Grandpa’s Trick from the Army to Get a Super Tight, Tight Bed: Safety Pins

If you want to really create a super tightly made bed, use this trick. First, gather several  safety pins. Before any step that requires you to tuck a sheet and blanket under the mattress, stick a safety pin through them. When you tuck them under the bed, pin the blanket and sheet to the mattress. Do this all down the foot of the bed and down the sides to about the midpoint on your mattress.  This will ensure that your bed stays nice and tight through the week. Of course, your wife might object to using this technique on her 700 count Egyptian cotton sheets. Use with discretion.

How to Make Your Bed Every Day in Less Than a Minute

Once you’ve made your bed with hospital corners and everything, it’s actually really easy to maintain throughout the week. In fact, you can make your bed every day in less than a minute. Most people make their bed by walking around it and straightening things out as they go. All that shuffling just wastes time.

To make your bed quickly, use this trick I learned from a dorm mate I had in college: simply make your bed while you’re still in it. When you wake up, just sit up in your bed and straighten everything out. It’s actually easier to do this while sitting in your bed’s center than standing on its side. Once you have everything nice and straight, fold the top of the sheet and blanket down and slide out from underneath. When you get out, tuck the sides of the sheet back underneath the mattress. Bada bing! Instantly made bed.

One caveat- this probably only works with a single or double mattress. Anything bigger and it gets unwieldy to maneuver while still under the covers.

Any other bed making tips? Share them with us in the comments!

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Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Mike Hagan, AoM’s resident bartender. Mike last tackled the 5 classic cocktails every man should know. Today, he gives the non-drinkers among us tips on how to wet their whistles when they’re out at a bar.

Lots of folks like to go out to the bar from time to time, regardless of whether they drink or not. The bar can be a great place to socialize, meet new friends, catch up with old ones, or even meet that special someone. But what if you don’t drink? Must you avoid this integral part of the male social experience? Absolutely not! With our Guide to Drinking for the Teetotaler, you’ll be able to enjoy the experience of the bar without drinking yourself into buffoonery or resorting to Virgin Strawberry Daquiris.

There are multiple reasons you might not be drinking while you’re out at the bar: 1) you’re not a true teetotaler and DO in fact drink, but you’re the designated driver for the night. The designated driver is an under-used part of the bar experience, but very important. 2) You also may like to enjoy a drink or two, but not to get drunk, be it for having to work early the next day or to not end up with a woman of loose morals and questionable attractiveness lying next to you in the morning. 3) Finally, you may just choose not to drink, but like the atmosphere and camaraderie of the bar.

If you’re on the wagon, be it for life or for the night, here are some tips, broken into two sections:

When You Want People to Think You’re Drinking

There are many reasons why you may want to mask the fact that you’re not drinking. Everyone has that one friend, the “get them all another one!” guy who tries to make sure that the whole group is drinking and getting as wasted as he is. There’s nothing wrong with this guy; he’s usually a good time and just wants to have fun, but he needs to slow it down sometimes. Also, you may not want someone to buy you a drink. Groups of people buy rounds and may get you one if you’re ready. If you always have a full one in front of you, you can politely decline. And as unfortunate as it is, we all have friends that will ridicule you for not drinking. By hiding that you’re not drinking, you can avoid this problem while looking for new friends!

Soda Water, Tonic Water, Seltzer, or Citrus Soda

These can be easily poured in a highball glass and served with a citrus wedge to fool anyone into thinking you’re drinking a clear liquor with a clear mixer. A vodka tonic looks exactly like plain tonic water in the same glass side by side. If you’re going to be drinking a lot of these, however, I’d choose soda water because of the lack of calories. Tonic water and citrus soda (7Up, Sprite) have a lot of calories and sugar, and instead of a beer gut, you could get diabetes.

Non-Alcoholic Beer

Most people’s experience with non-alcoholic (NA) beer is O’Doul’s, from Anheuser-Busch. They try one, and their experiment with NA beers comes to a quick and disappointing end. It doesn’t really taste like beer, and that’s the point, right? But it works great for hiding that you’re not drinking, because in a glass it looks just like any other light lager. Your bartender will be more than happy to pour it in a glass for you before he puts it in front of you. There are a slew of non-alcoholic beers that taste better than the one everyone knows about. Heineken makes one called Buckler, and Guinness makes one called Kaliber. On the domestic side, Coors NA, Busch NA, Sharp’s from Miller, and Old Milwaukee NA are all available. In my experience, most old-school domestic beer drinkers like Busch NA because they say, of all the ones they’ve tried, it tastes the most like beer. Personally, of all I’ve tried, I liked Kaliber the best.

Apple Juice, Grape Juice, Sparkling Grape Juice

What if you want to look like you’re drinking wine? Apple juice in a wine glass looks like a Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay to the untrained eye. Grape juice can look like a lot of red wine if no one is paying attention. Sparkling white grape juice looks like champagne, and mixed with peach puree or orange juice can stand in for a Bellini or Mimosa, respectively. I don’t know how many times I’ve poured one of these for women who are pregnant but not telling anyone the news yet (it’s amazing what people will tell a bartender that they won’t tell their own friends…).

Iced Tea, Cola, Red Bull

Iced tea, on the rocks, can look like whiskey or a light scotch. A lot of people mix their dark liquors with cola, so having only cola in your glass will fool anyone. And if you need a pick-me-up, drink a Red Bull on the rocks.

Bloody Marys, Martinis, Other Cocktails

If you like Bloody Marys, get one sans vodka. You’ll still get all the fun garnishes, so you can get something to eat as well as something to quench your thirst. And if you like dirty martinis, a mix of olive juice and water in your cocktail glass can suffice. Especially if you’re someone who loves olive juice. A mix of cranberry juice and lime juice can look like a Cosmopolitan. Have a Mojito made with everything but the booze, and you’re in for a treat.

You Don’t Care If People Know You’re Not Drinking

Ok, here’s the fun part! You have a great group of friends who know you don’t drink and like your company anyway. Or, you do drink, but you love your friends so much, you’re driving them around for the night. Have fun with your bartender and ask him to come up with something for you, or you can order these drinks:

Shirley Temple, Roy Rogers, Arnold Palmer

A Shirley Temple, or Kiddie Cocktail, is citrus soda and grenadine. A Roy Rogers is cola and grenadine. An Arnold Palmer is lemonade and iced tea.

Craft Sodas

Some bars you go to may have a selection of craft sodas, root beers, or ginger ales. Try them! They usually taste better than the standard Coke or Pepsi. The bar I work in has a selection of both Jones and Sprecher sodas. If you have a favorite and you frequent an establishment, don’t be afraid to ask them to carry it. If they can get it, more than likely they’ll buy a case and see how many they sell. If they sell well, they may get a whole slew of different flavors and varieties for you to try.

Fruit Punches

Most bars have a variety of juices and alcohol free mixers available. Ask your bartender to create something for you. I make soda water with a splash of cranberry juice and a lime wedge for a woman who frequents my bar constantly. If you like what they make and order it enough, they’ll remember and may even name it after you!

Just as there are endless combinations when mixing alcohol drinks, and the same goes for non-alcoholic drinks. Try a few things out and find your favorite. Your bartender will be more than happy to help you out. They don’t care what they’re making, just as long as you tip!

Here’s a couple of my favorites that you can make at home, and two family punch recipes.

Brown Pelican

• 2 parts Apple Cider
• 1 part Ginger Beer
• Over ice

Faux Orangina

• 2 parts Citrus Soda
• 1 part Orange juice (Medium Pulp)
• Over ice, stirred

Lime Sherbert Punch

In a large punch bowl, empty the contents of a gallon of lime sherbert, preferably intact. You can soak the gallon bucket in a sink of warm water first to loosen up the sides, allowing the sherbert to slide out into the punch bowl. Also, if you don’t plan on using the bucket again, carefully tap a hole in the bottom with a knife to let air in and make the sliding process easier.

Cover the sherbert with citrus soda and let it sit for a few minutes. Serve. Add more citrus soda as needed until the sherbert is gone or fully melted into the liquid.

Five Alive Frozen Punch

If you did save that gallon bucket from your sherbert in the recipe above, use it here.

Mix Five Alive concentrate as the directions indicate. Five Alive works best, but is increasingly unavailable in some areas. Any citrus punch will do.

Add a small jar of maraschino cherries, juice and all. Stir and cover. Stick in the freezer, making sure there is enough room in the bucket for expansion of the liquid as it freezes.

An hour before serving, remove from the freezer. About 15 minutes before serving, pour citrus soda over the chunk of frozen goodness, using a fork to help break up the ice, turning it into slush. Transfer to a punch bowl or serve from the bucket. Enjoy!

For some “mocktails” that are specifically good during the holiday season, be sure to check out our Man’s Guide to the Holidays Ebook!

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Last week, 3 college softball players in North Dakota drowned when the jeep in which they were riding became submerged in a pond merely 12 feet deep. While their deaths are still being investigated, authorities say that foul play was not a factor;  it was simply an unfortunate and tragic accident. What surprised me after reading the report is how frequently such accidents occur. According to some studies, over 10,000 water immersion auto accidents happen each year. Some people involved in these accidents survive; some do not. If you careened off the road and into a lake, would you know what to do?

While we all feel confident that we’d be able to escape, the reality of being inside a sinking car is far scarier than can be imagined.  The car fills up with water much faster than you’d think, you may be upside down, it’s dark, you’re disoriented, and panic quickly takes over. You have to know exactly what to do before splash down. So memorize the following tips.

How to Escape from a Sinking Car

Stay as calm as possible. When you have gallons of water filling your car, it’s hard not to panic. But when the difference between life and death comes down to a matter of minutes, having a clear head is essential to your survival. Panic is often the reason people drown; they lose the ability to think straight and don’t know what to do. The women in the North Dakota accident called their friends on their cellphones! But panic=death. Hyperventilating and wasting your energy on ineffective actions closes off the easiest options of escape, wastes precious oxygen and shortens the amount of time you’ll be able to hold your breath when making an escape. Just concentrate on what you need to do.

Keep your seatbelt on. Survival experts all agree that you should keep your seatbelt fastened until the very last second of escape. While this may seem counter-intuitive,  it actually makes a good deal of  sense. Water will be rushing into your car. If you’re not anchored to your seat, there’s a good chance you’ll be pushed away from the door or window that will serve as your escape hatch. Moreover, it’s easy to get disoriented when you’re floating around in the cabin of your car. This is especially true if your car flips upside down. Finally, being anchored to your car seat can give you more leverage to break the side window than you would have if you were floating in the water.

Do not wait for the pressure to equalize! When your car starts really sinking, the differential between the pressure outside the car and inside the car makes opening the door impossible. So people are commonly told to wait until the car fills completely with water in order for the pressure inside and outside of it to equalize, at which point you will supposedly be able to open the door. But two shows, Mythbusters and Top Gear have tested this theory and found it wanting. The inside/outside pressure will eventually equalize, but it won’t happen just as soon as the car fills up with water. It takes a bit longer, so long that you’ll likely drown before it happens. It is possible if you are patient, calm, and conserve your oxygen, but don’t count on it.

Watch Top Gear test out this theory:

Get out immediately through the door! Your best chance for survival is to open the door as soon as you hit the water. You should be able to get the door open up until the point that the water has reached your waist. After that, the pressure from the water outside the car will prevent you from opening the door. Of course, if you just accidentally drove or fell into a body of water, you’re going to be somewhat in shock and disoriented. You may not have the presence of mind to open the door before the pressure becomes too great. If so, you need a Plan B.

Roll down or break a window. If you can’t get the door open, the window is your best chance for escape. If the waterline has not risen past the windows, try rolling down the window first. Contrary to popular belief, Mythbusters found that automatic windows don’t immediately short circuit underwater. But as the car sinks, the pressure of the water will prevent you from rolling them down. This is even the case with manual windows. Even if you’ve got Popeye-sized biceps, you won’t be be able to overcome the pressure and roll down the windows. You’ll probably just break the crank.

So if rolling down the window doesn’t work, you’ll need to break the side window to escape. This is actually harder than you might think as the windows are made of strong, tempered glass.  While the windshield is easier to shatter, they’re designed to be unbreakable and are laminated with a plastic sheet that could keep you trapped in the car. If you’ve been doing your push-ups and pull-ups, you might be able to break the side window with your elbow or fist. Aim for the center of the window. But this is extremely difficult. The water significantly slows down the force of your movements. The Mythbusters were unable to break it with a kick from a steel-toed boot. Even if you are able to punch it through, your risk cutting up your hands on the broken glass. Remember the scene at the beginning of Karate Kid II when Cobra Kai sensei John Kreese punched through some car windows? Yeah, your hands could look like that.  Wrapping your hand in something can help reduce the chance of slicing them up.

Your best option is to have some sort of device in your car at all times that allows you to easily break your windows in case of an emergency. The LifeHammer or ResQMe keychain are two tools you might want to consider keeping in your car or on your keychain. They both have a hardened steel tip that makes breaking strongly tempered windows a breeze. The LifeHammer and ResQMe keychain also have a cutting device that will cut through a seat belt if you find that you can’t unbuckle yourself. Keep them in a place that will be immediately accessible in case of an accident; you don’t want to be rummaging through your glove compartment as your car fills with water.

Escape through the window. If the waterline is still below the car window, escaping from the window will be pretty easy. If the waterline is past the window, keep in mind that as soon as you break the window, you’ll be hit with a flood of water. But you should still be able to swim out. Watch Adam from Mythbusters “break” the window and make his escape:

Escape through the door. If escaping through the window is not an option, then your last resort is to wait for the pressure differential to equalize. Try to remain as calm as possible. Don’t waste your energy and oxygen fruitlessly trying to open the door before the car is completely filled. As soon as it is, wait a few seconds more and then give it a try.

Swim to safety. Push off the car and swim to the surface. If you’re disoriented and don’t know which way is up, look for bubbles and follow the direction they’re going.

What to Do with Passengers

First, don’t open the door to make your escape. While you might be able to get out, the car will quickly fill with water and sink rapidly, possibly trapping your passengers in a watery grave. Instead, roll down or break the window.

Escaping from a sinking car is hard enough by yourself. But what if you have passengers? The first goal is to keep them calm. Take control of the situation by explaining exactly what you’re about to do. When people see there’s a plan, they’ll usually calm down. Tell them to leave their seat belts on until you’re about to make the escape. Try to make your escape from a single front window.  They’re bigger than the rear passenger windows. Plus it makes it easier to ensure that everyone has left the car safely if they go through a single exit.

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Today we return to our monthly series called Toolmanship. The goal of this series is to pass on the basics of tool use to a generation of men who never got around to learning how to be handy.

In this edition, we take a look at how to properly use a handsaw. We’ll give a rundown on the different types of handsaws out there and tips to get you sawing like a carpenter.

Crosscut Saw or Rip Saw

Before you put saw to wood, you need to determine what sort of saw you’ll need for your job. In the pantheon of saws, two basic designs exist: the crosscut saw and the rip saw. Which one you use depends on whether you plan on cutting with or against the wood grain. Let’s take a closer look at the differences between the two saws and when you would use them.

Crosscut saw. If you’re cutting across the grain of the wood, you’ll want to use a crosscut saw. The teeth on a crosscut saw angle back and have a beveled edge. The teeth are also much smaller than those on a ripsaw. This design allows the saw to act like a knife-edge that cleanly slices through the wood’s grain. The crosscut saw’s design also allows the saw to cut on both the push and pull stroke.

Rip saw. When you’re making a cut parallel to the direction of the grain of the wood, use a ripsaw. Unlike a crosscut saw, the teeth on a ripsaw don’t angle backwards nor are they beveled.  Instead, the teeth bend left and right in an alternating pattern. This design allows each tooth to act like a chisel that chips away small pieces of wood on each push stroke. The chisel design ensures a clean cut as you saw along the grain. Also, unlike the crosscut saw, the rip saw only cuts on the push stroke, not on the pull stroke.

Different Handsaws for Different Jobs

While the crosscut saw and rip saw will cover most cutting jobs, sometimes you need an even more specialized handsaw. Here are a few handsaws you might consider adding to your toolbox arsenal.

Keyhole saw. The keyhole saw is good for cutting holes for pipes, electrical outlets, or fixtures in floors, walls, and ceilings. Its narrow, tapered blade goes where other saws can’t, and its teeth can chew through tough material like drywall.

Coping saw. If you’re wanting to cut curves and other intricate shapes, you need to bust out the coping saw. The coping saw consists of a thin metal blade set between a C-shaped metal frame. Because of its thin blade, you can easily change directions and still maintain a clean cut with a coping saw. If you want to make cuts inside a piece of wood, you can do that with a coping saw, too. Just drill a starter hole, remove the coping saw blade, insert the blade through the hole, and reattach the blade to the handle.

Backsaw. Backsaws have a stiffening metal rib on the edge opposite the cutting edge. This allows for better control and more precise cutting than with other types of saws. Use a backsaw in woodworking when you need precise cuts. Different kinds of backsaws exist for different kinds of jobs. Miter saws are used with miter boxes to cut angles in wood. Dovetail saws cut, well, dovetails for joining pieces of wood together.

8 Things to Check When Shopping for a Handsaw

When you’re at the hardware store looking for a new saw, make sure to run each saw through this 8 point test to ensure you get a quality tool:

1. Sharp teeth. Run your thumb lightly over the teeth. If they’re properly sharp, they’ll catch your skin with little snagging tugs.

2. Straight blade. Sight along the blade to see if it’s true. Even a slight bend or bow will cause binding. Check the handle, too. A crooked one throws your arm off center, making sawing inaccurate and tiring.

3. Evenly set teeth. Squint toward the teeth from the back of the saw. If any teeth project farther than others, they’ll drag and leave a rough cut. If all teeth on one side are set out farther than those on the other side, the blade will twist.

4. Blade taper. Good saws taper so they’re thinner at the top than at the teeth. This provides blade clearance, reduces binding, and makes a cleaner cut because less tooth is needed. Taper may not be apparent, so be sure it’s specified. Watch out for saws that are just chamfered to give the appearance of a taper grind.

5. Proper flexing. Your saw should flex easily when you bend it, but quickly straighten when you let you go.

6. Built-in tension. Bend the saw with a straight edge across the blade and you’ll see a slight bow. The bow will keep trying to spring the blade back straight. This is the result of tension built into the saw by rolling and hammering the center portion. If the saw’s tension is correct, the bow should appear in a uniform curve and not look lopsided.

7. Blade crown. Hold the saw at arm’s length and sight along the teeth. You should see a slight outward curve at the blade’s center. This crown increases the cutting pressure by putting only a few teeth in contact with the wood at a time. The higher the crown, the better.

8. Balance. There are no absolute rules for good balance, but a saw should feel comfortable in your hand– not nose heavy or cumbersome. Make a series of sawing motions in the air to see how the saw feels in your hand.

How to Saw Like a Carpenter

Mark the cutline. Remember the timeless rule of carpentry: measure twice, cut once. Measure where you want a cut (twice of course) and draw a line marking where you want the cut to be. The line will act as a guide to help you get a straight cut.

Make the starting cut.When you make the first cut, use your thumb or the knuckle of your thumb on the hand holding the wood as a guide to ensure you cut along the cutline.

Use your thumb as a guide to start cutting

If you’re using a crosscut saw, start your cut with the teeth nearest the handle. This will give you the best control. Make a few back cuts until you get a nice kerf (opening in the wood).

If you’re using a ripsaw, start your cut with the finer teeth furthest from the handle (near the point of the blade).  Make a few short draw strokes to get a kerf going.

Don’t start the cut right on the line you marked earlier with pencil. Instead, cut right next to the line on the waste side. The waste side is the part of the wood you’re not going to use in the finished product. It’s always better to have a piece of wood that’s a bit long, than a bit short. You can always sand the wood down to the pencil line.

Angle the saw correctly. After you get your kerf going, you need to angle your saw correctly to get the best cut. For crosscut saws, the proper angle is 45 degrees between the saw and wood. With ripsaws, it’s 60 degrees.

Hold your elbows close to your body. To counteract the natural tendency to angle the blade away from perpendicular, hold your elbows close to your body when sawing. This will also help prevent you from twisting and tilting the blade, thus ensuring a nice, clean cut.

Hold the saw firmly, with forefinger extended along the side of the handle.

How to hold the saw. Just grip the handle so that your forefinger extends along the side of the handle. This helps you “point” the saw along the line and ensures more accurate cuts. Hold on to the handle firmly, but not too tightly.

The stroke. After you’ve started the groove, a few short forward strokes will deepen the cut so you can move your left hand away from the blade. Push the saw with an easy, free-running motion.  Use long strokes so that each tooth does a fair share of the work. Short strokes dull the saw faster because only a few of the teeth do the work.

Resist the temptation to bear down on the saw. It won’t do anything except tire you out. Let the saw do the work. If you feel like the saw isn’t cutting properly, something might be wrong with the saw itself.

For straight cuts, use a 2×4 as a guide. For many men, simply using the pencil line as your guide to cutting just doesn’t work. If you want to ensure that you get a true and square cut, place a 2×4 (or 2×2) along your pencil line and clamp it to the board you’re cutting. The board will now act as your guide to keep the saw on the line.

Correcting veering. Even the best carpenters veer from the cut line. If this happens to you avoid the natural tendency to twist and bend the saw blade so it gets back on track. This will only result in an uneven and rough cut. Instead, stop sawing and bring your blade back to the point where you veered off. Start sawing again on the line.

Prevent binding with a nail. One problem you may encounter, especially when you’re cutting along the grain with a rip saw, is binding. Binding occurs when the kerf closes in on the saw. To prevent this, simply place a nail in your kerf. This will keep it open. Move the nail towards you as you saw.

Storing Your Saw Properly

If you want to ensure your saw gives you years of cutting service, you need to take good care of it. By placing a simple sheath on your saw blade before you throw it back in the toolbox you can prevent your saw teeth from becoming dull and rounded, thus maintaining the sharp edge necessary for all your woodworking projects.

Most new saws come with a sheath, but if yours didn’t or you lost the sheath, here’s how you can make a makeshift sheath with just a bit of garden hose.

1. Hold the saw up against a straightened section of an old rubber garden hose. Use a utility knife to cut a section of hose that’s roughly as long as the saw blade.

2. Cut a slit down the length of the section of hose. Make sure that the slit goes all the way through the rubber.

3. Slide the cut edge of the hose over the exposed blade of the saw. The stiffness of the hose should hold it in place over the blade, protecting it from nicks and bending.

Got any other handsaw tips? Share them with us in the comments!

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Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Andre Naser at Club-Offers.com. To learn how to win a 3 month membership into their beer and cigar clubs, see the details below.

There was once a time when a man with a cigar in his mouth was held in high regard; a time when a young man toasted farewell to adolescence by igniting the end of a cigar that “just happened” to slip out of his father’s humidor. A time where the arrival of a man’s progeny was celebrated with cigars in the hospital’s waiting room.  A time when one could find a guillotine right alongside a man’s trusty pocketknife.

A 21-year-old Winston Churchill, on a quest to prove his manliness, ventured to the island of Cuba. It was in Cuba where Churchill began his love affair with the cigar. He described cigars as part of his “rule of life prescribed as an absolutely sacred rite; smoke cigars and drinking of alcohol before, after and if need be during all meals and in the intervals between them.” Churchill was so renowned for his cigar habit that a cigar of especially large magnitude still carries his name today: The Churchill cigar.

There can certainly be some intimidation when you first walk into a well-stocked cigar humidor. How can you possibly tell the difference between a Montecristo and an Ashton? Does it matter if this “Romeo y Julieta” came from the Dominican Republic and not Cuba? (why yes, it does). Fear not. After reading these quick tips on choosing a quality cigar, you’ll have an idea on how to pick a quality cigar. You’ll also be left wondering why you ever thought picking up a pack of Swisher Sweets from the gas station was a good idea.

Anatomy of a Cigar

The head: This is the end you put in your mouth. It’s sealed off and will require cutting; a guillotine is preferred to reduce the chance of smashing the cigar; however, a sharp knife will do. But for the love of God, do not use your teeth!

The foot: This is the side that you light.

The filler: A nice, consistent blend of dried and fermented tobacco.

The wrapper: The outside of the cigar. It varies in color from light to dark. A lot of the cigar’s flavor comes from this outer layer.

Choosing a Cigar

Now that you know your head from your foot, we can move onto choosing a cigar.  Check out a local cigar club.  They’ll likely have a well-stocked humidor and a knowledgeable tobacconist who will guide you through the selection.  When you arrive at the cigar club, you’ll walk into a humidor full of cigars. Humidors help maintain an optimal level of moisture inside the tobacco.  If it’s too humid, the tobacco will rot. If it’s not humid enough, the cigars will dry out and lose their flavor and aroma.

If this is your first time smoking a cigar, stay away from the higher-priced ones since, at this point, you won’t be able to truly savor the distinguishing elements of an expensive cigar. Besides, price isn’t the most most important factor in choosing a cigar. There are plenty of cheaper cigars out there that hold top ratings from major cigar publications.

While price isn’t that important when selecting a cigar, cigar construction and tobacco quality are. The cigar’s construction determines how smooth and even the draw is when you smoke it.  You can test the construction of a cigar by rolling it between the thumb and index finger of your hand. As you do this, make sure the cigar’s outside doesn’t have any lumps. Also check that the body is not too soft or void of filling. You want the cigar to have a nice even consistency and fill. A rough texture or any other mark of bad construction means a less smooth draw when you inhale.  With a well constructed cigar, the ash will maintain the shape of the cigar as it is smoked.

The second important factor when buying a cigar is the tobacco’s quality.  You typically can’t determine tobacco quality simply by looking at the outside of the cigar.  So how do you know which brands use good quality tobacco? It’s mainly based on reputation. Ask the tobacconist or your friends for recommendations on cigars that use quality tobacco. It’s usually a safe bet to go with larger brands. The big cigar brands tend to use higher quality tobacco in their cigars because they usually have first dibs on the quality stuff. In your quest to find cigars that use quality tobacco, just remember to purchase one cigar at a time instead of buying boxes. You don’t want to be left with a box of crummy cigars you’ll never smoke.

Now before you go running off to your local cigar club, let me first answer a question that typically comes up from those who want to learn more about cigars.

The Cuban Debate:  Are Cuban Cigars Really Better?

I must first preface my answer by saying this: if you live in the U.S., don’t even bother trying to buy a Cuban cigar locally.  Because of a 1962 embargo against Cuba, Cuban cigars are not allowed in the U.S. (legally, at least). But because Cuban cigars are so desirable, a large counterfeit industry has popped up in the United States.  If someone says they have some Cuban cigars for sale, steer clear. It’s probably a fake and will leave your mouth tasting like charcoal when you smoke it.

You’ll also find clever Cuban immigrants rolling cigars claiming that since they themselves are Cuban, the cigars can be sold as “Cuban cigars.”  A clever scam, but a scam nonetheless. If you really want to smoke a Cuban cigar, you’ll either have to head north to Canada or south to Mexico.

Now to answer the original question: Yes, Cuban cigars are indeed better. Cuban cigars are highly regulated by the Cuban government and are held to a very high standard.  They’re also constructed by some of the most skilled cigar rollers in the world.  The “torcedores,” as they are referred to in Spanish, have been rolling cigars their entire lives, often learning the skill from family members who passed the knowledge on from generation to generation. The skill these workers employ ensures a consistent fill for the cigar every time.  The flavor of a Cuban cigar tends to be extremely overpowering to someone not acquainted with cigars.  They are much more full and smoky compared to their Dominican counterparts that tend have a more peppery and spiced flavor.

It All Comes Down to Personal Preference

The cigar-smoking experience is very personal. Everyone has different tastes, so make sure to try a few different varieties in order to discover your cigar of choice. It’s similar to finding your favorite beer. You probably didn’t know it was your favorite until you experimented with some different variations: more hops, less wheat, maybe some orange zest. But when you finally found your favorite beer, you knew it was the one. Cigars are going to be the exact same way.

And what if you could have a variety of cigars mailed straight to your door every month? Well, with the Cigar Of the Month Club you can try new and different cigars without leaving your house. It’s like the Fruit of the Month Club, but manlier.

The Beer and Cigar of the Month Giveaway

A 3-month membership to a cigar of the month and beer of the month club is up for grabs in this giveaway. One lucky winner will be getting a monthly shipment of 12, 12-ounce microbrews from two lightly distributed domestic microbreweries with a total of 4 different varieties to try. They’ll also get five professionally chosen, hand-rolled cigars from around the world. The focus each month is on quality cigars ranging from a variety of types. More information on the exact package can be found here.

How to Enter: To enter, simply leave a comment on this post sharing your favorite cigar brand, tip, or experience.

Deadline to Enter: The deadline to enter the contest is Monday, November 9 at 11PM EST. The winner will be announced on Saturday, November 14 in the weekly roundup.

Legal:

• Only open to residents of the United States (sorry, laws don’t let us ship alcohol and tobacco internationally)
• Must be 21 to win.
• Due to local laws beer can not be shipped to the following states: AK, HI, ME, and UT.
• Adult Signature Requirements (Beer & Wine) – All beer or wine shipments are sent via Federal Express, UPS, or other local ground service carriers with an adult signature sticker required on the box. It’s best to have your shipments sent to a location where someone (21 & up) will be there to sign for it. Each carrier will make one or more delivery attempts and if unsuccessful they will leave door tags and/or phone messages indicating the attempted deliveries. Please respond to any communication from the carrier right away. After the final delivery attempt, the box is routed back to the local consolidation center closest to your shipping address and you may be given a short period to pick it up before it is sent back to our fulfillment center. We’ve intentionally packaged our shipments in a very non-descript, brown corrugated box such that most of our customers are comfortable having their shipments sent to their daytime location.
• The memberships will be “gift memberships” which will automatically stop after the 3 months. They will be able to go online and easily continue membership on their own if they want, or let it expire without doing anything.

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Ever since I’ve owned a car, I’ve always taken it to a quick lube to get the oil changed. Every 3,000 miles I would find myself sitting in a lounge munching on complimentary donuts while some other man changed my oil.

But it never felt right.

I would stare out the window into the garage and watch the mechanics work deftly on my car. I would think, “That looks easy. Why am I paying another man $25 for a job that I could do myself?”

In addition to the resentment I felt for paying another man to change my oil, I was also jealous. I admired the knowledge and skills those men who worked on my car had, and I wanted to be able to do it too.

Of course, I never did anything about it, mainly out of laziness.

Well, after 10 years of taking my car to a quick lube to change my oil, I finally got around to learning how to change the oil in my car last month. And boy did it feel good.

Below, I provide a short guide on how to change the oil in your car. Let’s get started.

The Benefits of Changing Your Oil Yourself

Save money. Getting your oil changed at Jiffy Lube or similar shops usually runs between $25 and $30. Half the cost goes to labor.  They have deals every now and then, but they’re few and far between. Changing your oil yourself will only set you back about $15 for a new filter and some new oil. In this tough economy, every little bit helps. The manly man is self-reliant and frugal.

You won’t get stuff stolen from your car. After one visit to the quick lube, my cell phone was missing. Of course, when I called the workers on it, they played dumb. I also had a few CD’s taken from another oil change place. (If you’re reading this Fast Lube guy, I want my Weezer Blue Album back.)

You’ll feel manly. Nothing will boost your manly confidence like learning a manual skill and doing a job yourself. The satisfaction you get after changing your oil is way more fulfilling than the satisfaction you’ll get getting a perfect score on Guitar Hero. You’ll get your hands greasy, and you’ll have the manly smell of sweat and oil emanate from you.

How Often Should You Change Your Motor Oil?

The common number that car dealers and mechanics put out there for oil changes is to do it every 3,000 miles or every three months. Because it has been repeated so often, many people have come to believe that it’s an unalterable law of the universe.

The 3,000 mile rule is actually good advice… if you own a quick lube and want to make loads of money. Modern engines and motor oils can actually last much longer than 3,000 miles in between oil changes. Most cars can go 5,000 miles in between oil changes. I’ve also seen some cars that can go for 12,000 miles before they need a change. There really isn’t hard and fast number. Bottom line, it’s longer than 3,000 miles.

Dealers and mechanics propagate the 3,000 mile rule because it means drivers come in more often to get their oil changed, which means more money for car dealers and garages.

So forget the 3,000 mile rule. Check your owner’s manual to find out how many miles your car can go in between oil changes.

How to Change Your Motor Oil

Gather your tools and materials. You don’t need much to change your oil. Below we list the essentials:

• New oil filter. Different cars require different sized oil filters. Check your car’s owner’s manual to find out what size you need. You can also check the auto parts book that all auto stores carry to find out which oil filter you car takes. You just need to know your car’s year, model, and make.
• Oil. You need enough oil to refill your engine after you drain it. Most cars require 4 or 5 quarts of oil. Also, make sure you get the correct oil grade for your car. Check your owner’s manual for the grade and number of quarts you need.
• Oil filter wrench. Sometimes you can get the filter off just by unscrewing it by hand. If it’s too tight, bust out an oil filter wrench. It’s an attachment that you put on the end of a socket wrench. Make sure you get the right size filter wrench attachment for the size of your oil filter. The attachment will set you back about $3.
• Socket wrench set. You’ll need a socket wrench to unscrew the drain plug and maybe to unscrew the oil filter.
• Something to catch the old oil. Anything will work. You can get a fancy oil drip pan or you can use an old refrigerator drawer or an old bucket.
• A funnel.
• Some old rags. In case you drop the oil plug into the oil pan and you need to wipe it off. They’re also good for wiping off your hands.
• Car ramp. While not a necessary item, it can make your job easier. You can buy plastic ramps that will elevate your car’s front off the ground. This will give you more room to work underneath your car. You can find car ramps at most auto stores for about $30.

Warm up your car. To ensure that you drain all the old oil out of your engine block, warm it up by taking your car for a spin. You don’t want the oil to be too hot, just warm enough so it thins out a bit. To tell if your car is warmed up enough, just turn on your heater. When your feet get nice and toasty, you’re ready to drain the oil.

Park the car on a flat surface. Park your car on a flat surface and engage the parking break. If you have those ramps, place them in front of your front wheels and drive up them. It’s always good to have someone out front guiding you so you don’t end up driving off the other end of the ramps. For added safety, put blocks behind both rear tires.

Pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap. Removing the oil filler cap can help the oil drain faster. It allows air to flow into the engine as the oil drains out.

Remove the oil plug. Locate the oil plug underneath your car. It’s pretty easy to find. It’s a fairly large bolt on the oil pan’s bottom. Take an appropriate sized socket or wrench and start unscrewing the nut.

If the nut is too tight, try this little trick: get a piece of pipe that’s a bit longer than your socket wrench and place it over your socket wrench’s handle. This will give you some added leverage.

Don’t remove the oil plug completely with your wrench or you risk getting oil all over the place. Loosen it enough so that you can start unscrewing it with your fingers. Before you remove the plug, place your drip pan underneath the hole. When everything looks lined up, remove the plug. Make sure to hold onto the oil plug tightly or else you’ll have to fish for it in your drip pan.

Let the oil drain. After you remove the oil plug, let the oil drain out completely. It takes about 2 minutes for most engines to drain.

Here’s what an oil filter looks like

Remove the oil filter. Probably the hardest part in removing an oil filter is finding it on your engine. The first time I changed the oil, I spent a couple of minutes underneath my car scratching my head looking for the damn thing. The problem is there isn’t a standard position for where oil filters go, so it could be on your engine’s side, back, bottom, or top. Just look at your new oil filter and start looking underneath your car for something that looks similar. That’s your oil filter.

Now if the car manufacturer decides to put your filter in a weird place, it can be hard to remove. You might have to contort your arm in weird ways to unscrew it, but be assured you can remove it.

Oftentimes you can simply unscrew the filter by hand. However, if it’s too tight, bust out your filter wrench. Give it a few turns until it loosens up. Once it does, remove the filter wrench and finish unscrewing the filter by hand.

Before you remove the filter, make sure to have your drip pan underneath it. When you remove the filter a good stream of oil will come out.

When you remove the oil filter, make sure the rubber gasket ring comes off with it. If it stays on the car, the new filter won’t get an adequate seal on the engine.

Install the new oil filter. Dip your finger in some new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of your new filter. This will help the filter seat better against the engine. Thread the new filter onto the hole where the oil filter goes. It doesn’t take much to tighten your oil filter. Tighten it with your fingers until it stops turning. Then give it one more strong half turn. That should do the trick. Some oil filters come with instructions on how many turns you need to give a filter to tighten it. When in doubt, follow the instructions.

Replace the oil plug. Some mechanics suggest replacing the sealing washer on your oil plug before you start tightening it. If it’s a metal one in good condition, you can get away without replacing it. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Start tightening. When it’s nice and tight get out from under your car and remove the drip pan.

Refill the engine with oil. Place your funnel in the oil filler hole on the top of your engine and start filling your car up with new oil. Again, depending on the car, 4 to 5 quarts should do the trick. Once the oil is all in, screw on the oil cap and close the hood.

Let the car run. When you’re all done, start the car and let it run for about 5 minutes. This does two things. First, it allows your engine to regain proper oil pressure. Second, it gives you a chance to see if you have any leaks near your oil plug and oil filter. If you see any leaks, stop the car and tighten the plug and filter as needed.

Dispose of your old oil. Unless you want to go to prison or pay a hefty fine, don’t dump your motor oil in a sewer or the trash. Instead, take it to a proper disposal location. Most states have laws that require quick lubes and gas stations to accept used motor oil from consumers for free or at a nominal cost.  Just place your used oil in the drip pan in a couple of old milk jugs. You’ll need to use your funnel and a helping hand to make the transfer. Screw on the lids, put the jugs in the back of your car, and drop them off at your local quick lube. You can also give them your old oil filter.

You’re done! Grab a Miller High Life or a hand crafted soda and revel in a job well done.

Any other tips on changing your car’s oil? Share them with us in the comments.

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You’re at a party. Maybe someone made you go, cornered you at work or school and you couldn’t think of an excuse fast enough to dodge the invitation. Or perhaps you showed up to a social event that held the promise of being a fun shindig, but after listening for 20 minutes to a lady explain the pros and cons of buying an Accord over a Camry and being forced into a conga line against your will, all you want to do is make like a baby and head out. A lot of men find themselves trapped in these kinds of situations, wanting to stick a pencil in their eye but afraid to make an escape attempt.

We’ve discussed how to command a room like a man, but how do you leave a room like a man?

While you’ve surely heard about the importance of making a dynamite first impression, leaving a classy last impression is just as important. Studies have shown that people most clearly remember the end of an experience, not the beginning. Thus, you want to be able to exit a social event on your own terms, but you also want to leave the host and fellow guests saying, “Dang, I like that guy!”

So how do you leave a social event without being awkward and offending your host? And how do you make sure people remember you fondly?

Below, we set out some guidelines so you can leave a social event with confidence and class.

1. Know when to leave. No matter how smoothly you do it, it’s impossible to leave a social event politely if you exit at the wrong time. Even if you know the party is a disaster from the minute you walk in, you have to put in minimum cameo time. For a come and go kind of function, this minimum is about an hour. At a dinner party, this comes after the after-dinner coffee has been served. If you need to leave before these times for an important reason, tell the host or hostess as soon as you arrive. But generally, if you can’t make it for the minimum cameo time, it’s better not to come at all. It’s awkward to leave in the middle of dinner or to circle the room once before exiting back out the door. Your first and last impression will be one in the same, and not a very good one at that.

Once the minimum time has been met, either wait to make your exit as the party starts winding down or, if you’re having a terrible time, simply make the executive decision to get the heck out of dodge.

2. Stand up. When they feel it’s time to leave, most folks start to squirm in their seat and say things like, “Weeelll…. it’s getting late.” Then they just keep on sitting on their duffs looking awkwardly at their watch. Don’t dilly dally. If you’re ready to leave, then show that you are. Standing up shows you’re committed to leaving.

Now, don’t be abrupt about it. That’s just as awkward as squirming in your seat and looking side-to-side for a means to escape. Stand-up smoothly and confidently. While you’re standing, simply say, “Well I must be leaving.” Never give an excuse for why you have to leave. An excuse can make your hostess feel unimportant and force you to sheepishly explain yourself all the way to the door.

If you want to be particularly suave about your transition from sitting to standing, try this trick. When you’re ready to leave, wait for a pause in the conversation and start a short story. Make it an engrossing, entertaining story. You want to leave them laughing. As you tell the story, start standing up. You can even start putting on your coat and hat as you spin your yarn. Walk next to your host when you reach the story’s climax. Give a quick wink to the group, and…

3. Hold out your hand. Alright, you’re standing up. What do you do now? This is a crucial moment. If you don’t continue on your path towards the door, your host and the other guests will likely start wrapping their tentacles around you to hold you hostage for another round of Parcheesi.

As soon as you’re on your feet, offer your hand to your host. Give a good firm handshake. If appropriate, offer a man hug or kiss on the cheek if it’s a lady or a European dude. Most people who are socially adept will see that you’re serious about leaving and will usher you to the door and see you out. However, some people will still try to get you to stay.

4. Say “Thanks!” and “Goodbye.”As you’re shaking hands, thank your host or whoever you’re with for the hospitality and the conversation. Look them in the eyes, give them a big smile, and compliment the host on something specific you enjoyed about the evening. “Thank you for dinner! Your pumpkin pie is the best I’ve ever had!” Give a pleasant “goodbye” or “see you later.” Also, direct your goodbyes to the other people in the group.

5. Gather your things. You don’t want to leave anything that will cause you to come back after you’ve left. This only opens up the chance of getting sucked back into social purgatory. And it bursts the warm memory the host and remaining guests started forming about you as soon as you left. Grab your coat and hat and your wife’s coat and clutch. Make sure you have your cell phones. If you do happen to leave something, wait until tomorrow to come pick it up.

6. Walk to the door with confidence. Inertia can get the best of a man at this point. If you don’t start walking towards the door, you might find yourself sitting back down. Once you make your move to the door, do so with confidence and determination. Don’t stop to admire Grandma’s china cabinet or you risk getting a 10-minute lecture on the cabinet’s history from the Civil War to the present day.

7. Open the door.You’ve reached the door. You’re almost there, but you’re still at risk of having your departure needlessly delayed with awkward chatter. A well-mannered host will open the door for you and see you out. However, some people have either not been taught this bit of courtesy or if they have, they’ve forgotten it. The individuals in the latter group also seem to be the type that will strike up conversations in the doorway for another 15 minutes. If you don’t take matters in your own hands by opening the door, you’re doomed to listen to your wife’s co-worker talk about how she has a busy day making name tags for a convention tomorrow and the eating habits of her cats. If your host doesn’t open the door for you, do it yourself as soon as you reach the door. Once you open the door, step out. Keep your feet planted outside; even if the host continues to talk to you, the inside/outside dichotomy will soon compel them to close the door and send you on your way.

8. Walk away. Say your final goodbyes and pleasantries and walk to your car. Tip your hat (you are wearing a hat, aren’t you?) for the final charming touch. Mission accomplished! A few minutes more and you’ll be back in your man chair, sitting by the fire, and reading The Art of Manliness.

Have any other tips on leaving a scene? Share them with us in the comments.

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Image from Fractal Artist

Editor’s Note: This is a guest post from AoM reader Jason Mills.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you know that smoking or using tobacco products comes with health risks like cancer and emphysema. Thus, like most things in life, from driving to eating refined carbs, there are both risks and benefits to pipe smoking. Smokers would argue that studies done specifically on the risks of pipe smoking are quite sparse, and that some actually found that occasional pipe smokers live longer than non-smokers. On the other hand, the National Cancer Institute argues that “Pipe smoking confers a risk of tobacco-associated disease similar to cigar smoking,” and puts the user at risk for a variety of cancers.

Now we’ve that we’ve gotten the pros and cons out of the way, please remember that it is a requirement of our comment policy that comments remain on topic. The topic of this post is the basics of pipe smoking for grown men who understand the risks involved, not whether or not pipe smoking is good for you. Please stay on topic.

I can remember visiting my best friend when I was younger.  It was fun to get together and have adventures like boys do, but one thing I really, really liked was his dad.  His dad was an old farm man and looked like it from the weather-beaten lines on his face to his calloused hands. He was quiet spoken and loved smoking his pipe.  Since my dad was a non-smoker, this fact really intrigued me as a young boy.  I’d see him lighting up and smoking his pipe in complete happiness.  He always smelled like pipe tobacco (Sir Walter Raleigh) and now, whenever I smell that brand, I always think of him.

Maybe you had a grandpa who was like my friend’s dad.  Maybe you saw him smoking his pipe in quiet contentment and enjoyed that manly smell as I did. Maybe you’ve never known a man who smoked a pipe, so you don’t know what I’m talking about. Either way it doesn’t change the fact that pipe smoking is a manly art.

Why?  Well, pipe smoking is as much ritual as it is relaxation. There’s a certain satisfaction you get when you pack the tobacco into the bowl just right.  Then, the whoosh of the match followed by that wonderful, aromatic smell.  Smoke a pipe with one of your favorite cocktails (maybe an Old Fashioned or a Martini) in the comfort of your favorite armchair, and you’ve got the makings of a perfect evening.

Pipe? Check. Man chair? Check. Grab the sports section and you’ve got the perfect evening ahead of you.

Even in cinema from the 1930s and 1940s, oftentimes you’ll see men with a pipe in their mouths.  Movies like The Quiet Man, Goodbye Mr. Chips, and even It’s a Wonderful Life find men of all stripes smoking their pipes. Today, men who smoke a pipe are taking part in a manly ritual that stretches back to the dawn of time and has continued unbroken to the present.  Convinced?  Then let’s get started.

Basic Supplies

Since this article is for newbies, I don’t want you to go broke trying something you may not like. So, I’ve provided a list of the minimum items you need to start.  When I first started smoking a pipe, I paid $12 for all of my stuff, but prices may vary in your area.  Here’s what you’ll need:

• A pipe. I recommend starting with a corn cob pipe. Yeah I know it sounds corny (no pun intended) but they’re cheap (mine was $4) and if you find you don’t like  smoking a pipe, just toss it with little out of your pocket.
• Pipe tamper/tool. Although not absolutely necessary, this is very helpful in packing the tobacco. Mine was $3 and was a combo tamper/cleaner.
• Pipe cleaners. Obviously for cleaning your pipe when you’re finished.  Most tobaccoists will gladly provide you with a handful at no charge
• Wooden Matches or a pipe lighter.
• Tobacco. This is where a knowledgeable tobacconist is HIGHLY needed. Tobacco comes in a variety of flavors and strengths.  I recommend starting out with a blended flavor.  The one I started with is called Almost Heaven and is a vanilla flavored tobacco.  My tobaccoist sold me a 3 oz sample pouch for about $5.

Once you have all this, you can get started.

How to Smoke a Pipe

“I believe that pipe smoking contributes to a somewhat calm and objective judgment in all human affairs.” -Albert Einstein

To start with, smoking a pipe is a leisurely activity.  I’d recommend setting aside at least 20 minutes. That’s one of the reasons pipe smoking is so enjoyable. It lets you take some time to slow down. Again, make yourself one of the 5 Classic Cocktails Every Man Should Know, grab your pipe and tobacco, and take a seat on the porch to enjoy the evening.  Now you’re really ready to begin.

1. Fill the bowl of your pipe. This step is the most difficult to master, but it affects the rest of your smoke.  Fill the bowl loosely with tobacco and press it lightly down with the tamper. The bowl should now be filled halfway from the bottom. Fill the bowl again to the top and compress a bit more, packing more firmly. Now your bowl is about 3/4 full.  Now top off the bowl with more tobacco and press down.  There should be a slight space between the top of the bowl and the tobacco.

2.  Put the pipe to your mouth and take a test draw. If air doesn’t flow freely through the tobacco, it’s too tight.  If that’s the case, remove and try again. If your test draw is fine, you’re ready to light.

3.  When lighting your pipe, use a wooden match or pipe lighter. I recommend wooden matches because they’re cheaper.  Pipe lighters are made specifically for tobacco pipes and don’t alter the taste of the tobacco.  If using a match, strike it and let it burn for a few seconds to get the sulphur off.  Then, as you take gentle draws on the pipe, move the match in a circular movement over the surface of the tobacco. Do this until the tobacco is evenly lit.  Once it’s lit, you’re still not quite there.  This is simply the “false light.” Let it go out, then relight the same way. Once it’s evenly lit, this is the “true light” and you’re ready to smoke.  Note: It is suggested that you NOT inhale the smoke into your lungs.  Pipe smoking is different than cigarette smoking.  This type of tobacco is a bit stronger and is more for the flavor.

4.  Take it easy when smoking your pipe. Slow and steady, this is a marathon, not a 50 yard dash.  If you puff too quickly, you’ll get what’s known as “tongue bite”– a burning sensation on your tongue.  Definitely not what you want.  Your pipe may go out 2 or 3 times during your smoke, but that’s OK.  Remember, relax and enjoy.  If you have a friend over, your pipe may go out more often as you talk!  Enjoy the flavor of the tobacco.

That’s all there is to it.  If you enjoy your first and subsequent smokes, you can buy the more expensive pipes and tobaccos.  Who knows, there may be another article on the types of pipes and tobaccos in the future.

Some Other Tips

• If you find that the pipe starts “gurgling,” there’s too much moisture in the pipe stem.  Simply take the pipe out of your mouth and put a pipe cleaner in the end for a second or two to remove the moisture.  Try to keep your mouth as dry as possible to prevent this from happening.
• If the pipe gets too hot on your hand, let it go out and then relight.  If it’s burning too hot, it can alter the taste of the tobacco.
• When finished with your smoke, always allow the pipe to cool before cleaning.

Editor’s note: If you’re intrigued by the idea of pipe smoking but for a variety of reasons want to avoid tobacco, you may wish to look into trying an e-pipe. E-pipes are electronic pipes that produce a vapor-like smoke but don’t contain tobacco. You can control the level of nicotine in the vapor from high to none at all. It’s a far cry from real pipe smoking, but an interesting alternative.

What are your manly pipe smoking tips? Share them with us in the comments!

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A lot of men today are clueless when it comes to tools. The increased affluence of the past 50 years led many men to outsource handyman work instead of doing repairs and home improvement themselves. And let’s face it. Men today can be pretty darn lazy. They’d rather play their Xboxes than work on building something with their own bare hands.

But knowing how to handle tools is an essential skill every man should, well, have a handle on. You’ll become more self-reliant, you’ll save money, and you’ll enjoy the supremely manly satisfaction of working with your hands. To help the generation of men who never got around to learning how to use tools, we’ll be doing a series of posts on basic toolmanship.

To kick off our series on tool use, we start with the lowly hammer. To the unskilled, hammering just means pounding the hell out of something until you get the job done. Sure, you could do that, but you’ll end up with crummy results and a tired arm to boot. A wise handyman knows how to use a hammer safely, effectively, and efficiently.

Types of Hammers

Proper hammering begins with selecting the right hammer for the job. Using a hammer for tasks that it’s not suited for can result in injury and shoddy work. Below, we give you the skinny on the different types of hammers a man has to choose from.

16 ounce claw hammer. If you’ve only used one kind of hammer in your life, it’s probably this one. Its curved back makes it ideal for pulling out nails. This is a must for any man’s toolbox.

16 ounce ripping hammer. When you have a small demolition job, this is your go-to hammer. Unlike the claw hammer, the back of a ripping hammer is straight. It’s used for heavy carpentry work, framing houses, and of course, ripping crap up.

Rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet when you hammer a finished-metal surface.

Wooden mallet. Carpenters use wooden mallets to strike wood chisels during carpentry work.  Don’t try drywalling with a wooden mallet. You’ll just end up with a bunch of splinters in your face after the head smashes into a million pieces.

Soft-face hammer. When assembling furniture or working on some other decorative wood project, you need a hammer that will drive a nail without marring the surface of the wood. Go with the soft-face hammer for this job. The faces of soft-face hammers are usually made of plastic or rubber.

Ball peen hammer. Ball peen hammers are used in metalworking tasks like center punching and shaping soft metal.

Mason’s hammer. Use a mason’s hammer to cut and set bricks when laying that new walkway.

Upholster’s or tack hammer. The smaller face is designed for driving tacks in upholstery work.

Drywall hammer. The serrated face of this appropriately named hammer gives you a better grip on the nail when installing drywall. You can use its hatchet-shaped back for cutting drywall.

Huge ass sledge hammer.For big demolition jobs, bring out the big guns. Concrete, walls, and porecelin bathtubs are no match for a 10 pound sledge hammer. It also comes in handy at state fairs when attempting to win your girl a giant teddy bear.

Parts of a Hammer

Hammer Safety

Use the right hammer for the job. Don’t upholster a couch with a sledge hammer or drive drywall nails with a tack hammer. You won’t get the job done right, and you might end up injuring yourself.

Don’t strike a hardened steel surface with a steel claw hammer. Flying metal chips can injure you or a bystander.

Never use a hammer with a loose or broken handle. The hammer head could come flying off while in use. If you don’t want to explain to your wife why grandma’s china cabinet is in a million pieces, replace the handle if it’s loose or cracked.

Never use a hammer with a chipped or cracked head. It’s an accident waiting to happen.

How to Handle a Hammer

Where to hold the hammer. Hold the hammer like you’re shaking hands with somebody. When you need more control over the hammer, like when you’re starting a nail, grip the hammer closer to the hammer head. When you need power, grip the hammer near the handle’s end.

Starting the nail. Place the nail where you want to drive it and hold it between the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand.  Place your fingers near the top of the nail when holding it. If you hold the nail near the bottom, a missed hammer swing will crush your fingers between the wood and the hammer. Not a pleasant feeling.

Grip the hammer near the middle of the handle. Tap the nail lightly until the nail has sunk into the wood enough that it can stand on its own.

If you’re driving in nails that are too small to hold between your thumb and forefinger, use this handyman tip: Grab a piece of thin cardboard or thick paper and push the nail through it. Instead of holding onto the nail, you hold onto the cardboard. Remove the cardboard before you finish driving the nail.

For some hardwoods, it’s a good idea to drill a pilot hole before you hammer in a nail. It makes the job easier and prevents the wood from splitting. Which brings us to our next point-

Preventing wood splitting. In addition to creating a pilot hole, lubricating the nail with beeswax and blunting the nail will also keep the wood from splitting. To blunt a nail, simply tap the nail point with your hammer. Also, avoid hammering a nail into the grain of the wood.

Swing from the elbow for power; swing from the wrist for control. For maximum power and efficiency, swing from the elbow. When you need more control and finesse, swing from the wrist. Many hammer newbies try to hammer with just wrist action.

Focus on the nail, not the hammer. When hammering, you want to avoid sideways and glancing blows. To score a direct hit every time, focus on the nail head, not the hammer.

Let the weight of the hammer do the majority of the work. You don’t need to use every ounce of strength in your body when hammering. That will only lead to wild swings and bent nails. The weight of the hammer head plus your smooth swing provides enough force to get the job done.

Advanced Hammering Techniques

Clinching nails. Let’s say you drive a nail through a 2×4. The nail is longer than the board is thick, so when you drive in the nail, the nail’s point sticks through the board. You don’t want to leave those points hanging out to snag people’s clothing or scrape their skin. So you’ll want to clinch the nail. Simply strike the tip of the nail at an angle and force it down flat into the board with light taps. Sink the tip below the surface of the board with a sharp rap. When you clinch a nail, always clinch with the grain. In addition to preventing ripped shirts, clinching also lends a nail greater strength and stability.

Example of toenailing

Toenailing. When you need to nail one board perpendicular to another, like in a framing job, bust out the toenail technique. Toenailing involves driving a nail at an angle through the end of the board to anchor it to another board. To toenail, place one end of the board perpendicular to the board you want to nail it to. Drive the nail in at a 60 degree angle.  It can be tricky starting an nail at an angle, so begin by making a pilot hole by tapping the nail point straight into the board. Once you have a hole, tip the nail point to the correct angle to finish driving it in. Brace your foot behind the board as you hammer, so the board doesn’t move from its spot. Toenail a second nail on the same side and two more nails on the opposite side.

Removing Nails

Claw hammers are designed to remove nails. Simply slide the claw underneath the nail head. Pull the hammer’s handle towards you to extract the nail. Here’s an old trick from grandpa to help you pull nails: Stop the first pull back before the hammer’s poll touches the surface of the wood. Place a wood block under the hammer head to provide some leverage. Using the block puts less strain on the hammer’s handle and allows you to lift the nail straight up without bending it.

Place a block under the hammer after the first pull back

Some nail heads are too small for the tongs of the hammer to grasp. To deal with such nails,  hammers are sometimes made with a small v-shaped notch in one of the prongs. If yours lacks this feature, you can simply file a v-shaped notch into one of the claws with a metal file.

Have any more hammering tips? Share them with us in the comments.

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Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Joseph P. Lenze. A few weeks ago Mr. Lenze shared his tips for international backpacking. Now, by popular demand, he gives us his advice on traveling by freighter ship, a manly adventure I’m willing to bet every man has dreamed about at one time or another. This article was originally published on the Community blog.

At the Port of Long Beach, California, I boarded a freighter named the Punjab Senator. Twenty-two days later I got off the ship in Singapore after a winter crossing of the Pacific. This trip wasn’t for everyone, but it was definitely an adventure I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

If you’re tired of ho-hum traveling by plane and want to experience a trip aboard a freighter ship, here’s what you need to know to get started.

First Things First: Common Misconceptions About Freighter Travel

1. Freighter travel is a cheap alternative to flying on a plane. The popular old-school romantic notion of showing up penniless at a dock with a rucksack and then “earning” your passage by swabbing the decks will have to remain in Robert Louis Stevenson novels. Traveling on a freighter requires advanced booking and it is generally more expensive than flying. A fifteen day cruise from Oakland to Shanghai will cost about $2000 (US). When traveling on a freighter ship you are essentially paying for many days and nights of food and accommodation in addition to the transportation.

2. Freighter travel is similar to being on a cruise. The purpose of a cruise ship is to provide a relaxing and enjoyable time for everyone on board. The purpose of a freighter is to get cargo from point A to point B as quickly as possible. Cruise ships troll around tranquil seas, with stabilizers so that you barely know you are moving. Freighters haul at a breakneck pace across the open ocean, often through storms. A cruise will be populated with thousands of people, whereas a freighter is often a larger vessel with only 20 or so people on it. While a cruise ship has restaurants, spas, gymnasiums, and tons of activities, a freighter will have a TV with a DVD player, a radio, and if you’re lucky, an old Nautilus machine for working out.

3. You can ride a freighter from anywhere to anywhere. Most freighter ships follow well defined shipping routes and make stops at the large port cities (Long Beach, Oakland, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kaohsiung, etc.) But if your dream is to catch a freighter from the Jersey shore to Isla Mujeres, Mexico….it’s not going to happen.

Now that we’ve gone over the negatives, here’s how you can get started. There are several companies that book freighter cruises – just google freighter travel. I used www.freighterworld.com and I was extremely happy with them. If you browse the site you can get a good idea of the duration, cost, and ports that you can travel to and from. Their FAQ section contains a wealth of information. As a further affront to your Kerouac dreams of spontaneous adventure, you will have to book your passage at least a month in advance and proof of insurance is also necessary.

If you decide to go for it, here are some tips:

1. Bring Seabands. I had spent a significant amount of time on fishing boats, cruise ships, and sailboats without ever getting seasick. However, when the Punjab Senator cruised out of the Port of Oakland into the open Pacific, I felt my stomach turn. I used sea bands which are little wrist bands that exert pressure on your wrist to alleviate the effects of nausea. I am unsure if the seasickness was psychosomatic or real – the idea of trudging straight into the Pacific during winter was slightly unsettling – but the seabands definitely made me feel better when I was wearing them. During a storm, our ship hit a roll of 20 degrees, which is a tremendous amount of motion. The good news is that by the end of the trip I was able to sleep through motion that left my belongings scattered about my room.

2. Bring books. I am not a fast reader, but during this trip I completed some monster works by Dostoyevsky, Ayn Rand, Solzhenitsyn, and John Steinbeck. The ship had a good library, but many of the works were in German since the crew was mostly German. On a typical day I worked out twice, watched a DVD or two, wrote extensively, took two naps, ate three meals, and still had enough down time to finish four novels.

3. Understand that you must entertain yourself. On my ship the officers consisted of 7 Germans and 4 Russians, and the remainder of the crew consisted of 10 Kiribati. English is the language of the sea, but no one else on the boat was a native English speaker. Additionally, in spite of the friends I made on the ship, the seamen are there to work, and there were many times when everyone was too busy to hang out. At the majority of the ports we stopped at, I went to the shore alone because the entire crew was busy supervising the loading and unloading of cargo.

4. Special diets are not accommodated. The hardest part about freighter traveling (for me) was the food. As a passenger you eat with the officers-on my boat they were German and Russian. They ate a meat intensive, diet and I am a vegetarian. On land, it is never a problem for me to find acceptable cuisine anywhere, but in the galley you can’t simply choose somewhere else to eat. For me, that meant many weeks of eating cheese sandwiches. Thank goodness I brought a tub of peanut butter.

5. Know where your ship is. Some of the ports are HUGE, as in miles across…a seemingly endless maze of containers stacked four stories high. If you go onshore alone, it is much easier to get out of the port than it is to come back to the port to re-board. There are often several exits for a port and not knowing where to go can be extremely frustrating. I was lost in the port of Singapore for a significant amount of time trying to find my way back to my ship.

6. Freighter room etiquette. In general, the setting is informal and the rules are similar to college dorm room etiquette. If someone’s door is open, you are welcome to go in. If someone’s door is shut, they are either not there or they would like privacy.

In this article, I tended to focus on some of the negative aspects of freighter travel. To be best prepared, you should know about the difficulties. You don’t need instructions on how to drink gin and tonics while celebrating an International Date Line crossing. Overall, I really enjoyed the unique experience of freighter travel. I have an understanding and appreciation of the ocean I would not have otherwise. The informal atmosphere that allowed you to sit in the bridge while the first mate navigated was matchless. Finally, freighter travel gives some adventure street-cred that is tough to get. When you’re drinking a beer in Phnom Pehn, Cambodia and some backpacker asks you where you flew into, it feels pretty manly to look up and say, “I didn’t.”

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You can tell a lot about a camper’s experience by the type of fires they build. Inexperienced campers usually build the same, heaped together bonfire for all their campfire needs. Sure, building huge ass fires is fun, but it’s extremely inefficient. The typical bonfire campfire burns a lot of wood, wastes heat, and isn’t very good for cooking food.

Experienced campers, on the other hand, build different campfires depending on their needs. These campers understand that when you build the right fire for the right time, you get the most efficiency out of it, the most comfort, and the most pleasure.

Below we’ve outlined how to build three different campfires for three different purposes. First, we’ll show you how to build the small snack fire. Next, we’ll discuss how to create the perfect fire lay for cooking. And finally, we’ll take a look at how to build a campfire for warmth and comfort after a long day spent hiking.

Snack Fire

Sometimes you just need a fire big enough to warm a pot of coffee or fry the afternoon’s catch. Or perhaps you’re not setting up permanent camp at a stop. You don’t want a fire that’s so big that cleaning it up when you leave consumes too much time. Enter the snack fire. The snack fire is just a basic tepee fire lay. It’s small, but very efficient.

To build it, simply start by placing small twigs up against each other until you form a mini tepee. Leave an open space in the center where you can place the tinder. Newspaper balls, dry leaves, and dry pine needles work best. With practice, you can start a small fire in seconds. To keep the fire going, keep adding small twigs to the lay.

To use it to boil some water for your coffee or broil some bacon, wait until the tepee falls and then put your frying pan or kettle right in the center. Keep adding little twigs around the pot to increase the heat.

That’s it! While this fire won’t keep you very warm and it isn’t large enough to cook much, it’s a good fire to use when you need one quickly or just want a little warm comfort on your travels.

Cooking Fire

You should implement the cooking fire when you plan on staying in a location for more than a day and you want to do some serious campfire cooking. Campers often try to cook by placing their pots and pans directly into the fire. But this typically achieves less than satisfactory results, burning both pans and food. This leads some to tote along a camping stove. But you can make an effective campfire cooking range out of all natural materials.

Start off by building a tepee fire. Make it a bit larger than you would for a snack fire. When you get a good fire going, lay two green logs side-by-side about 7 inches apart at one end, and 4 inches at the other. The two logs serve as a stove range where you can place pots and pans. You can put your smaller vessels like a coffee pot on the narrower end, and your larger pots on the wider end. This enables you to cook several dishes at the same time. Spread or pile the coals to create hotter or cooler cooking areas.

If you want to make it a bit more elaborate, you can rig up a pole over the fire as seen in the picture. Then you can then hang your pots a couple of inches above the fire for care-free simmering.

Comfort Fire

What if you could bring the comfort and warmth of a fireplace with you on your camping trip? Well, with the reflecting fire you can. On a cold night you need more than just a simple tepee to keep you warm. You need something that will focus the heat directly at you. The problem with most campfires is that it throws heat off in all directions. A reflector fire lay solves this problem by replicating how a fireplace works. Fireplaces have a backdrop that reflects heat back towards the house. The reflector fire does the exact same thing.

You can use any fire lay to make a reflector fire- tepee, log cabin, star fire, whatever. We’re just going to place the fire in front of a backdrop to reflect heat.

Try to find a natural reflector to build your fire in front of. A cliff, larger boulder, or earthen bank will work. If you can’t find a natural reflector, build your own by driving two hearty stakes into the ground at an angle in front of your fire. Against these slanted poles, stack up a row of logs from largest to smallest to form a backstop that will serve as the reflector. Use only green wood so it won’t burn.

Now you can sit on your tree stump, eat s’mores, and enjoy the warmth and comfort of a fireplace out in Mother Nature.

Source:Woodcraft by George W. Sears

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Source: Life

Am I the only boy who secretly dreamed of  becoming a hobo? Riding the rails, traveling across the country, and carrying everything you own on your back has a romance that appeals to every man’s desire to wander.

In a 1937 issue of Esquiremagazine, an anonymous writer penned an article called “The Bum Handbook.” Unlike most bums, he had chosen his vagabond lifestyle. And he was tired of seeing the sub-par job most other bums were doing. This was during the Great Depression, and many men found themselves homeless, lost, and ignorant of the art of bumliness. The author had being a hobo down to a science and claimed to enjoy 3 meals a day and a comfortable place to sleep each night. While he didn’t desire to return to regular society, he knew that most fellow hobos did, and so he offered these tips in hopes they could maintain confidence and a respectable look and thus find their way back to steady work.

Although much has changed since the 1930’s, if you by chance find yourself a hobo during this Great Recession or desire to become a bum by choice, perhaps you can learn some tips from hobos of old. Enjoy these excerpts from the article and this fun peek into the past.

Keep yourself clean. Filthy men can’t charm the housewife into giving food, the passerby into relinquishing money, the man of business into giving jobs: the housewife is scared and repelled, the passerby is annoyed and anxious to be away, the business man responds curtly. And there is no need to be unwashed. Every gasoline station and railroad depot has a washroom replete with running water, soap and paper towels; anyone may use these facilities, the bum should wash and shave there. In the handbook for bums the first motto is: A bum should be clean.

Stay away from the cities. City people have submerged their humanity. I think the reason for this is their security from the elements, for the family that is sure of food and shelter becomes easily forgetful of other human beings’ needs and thinks vaguely of organized charities…The farm family, on the other hand, knows that deficit of sun or rain may touch more than its comfort, that the house it has built must be a citadel against cold and storms; therefore, their humanity comes more quickly to their mouths and hands. I do not say that city dwellers cannot be “hit” with success, but it is more difficult and only among the poor ones have you a fair chance of receiving hospitality.

Avoid intermediaries. Direct appeal is the best: individual should appeal directly to individual. Once I remember speaking to some soldiers in a town that had only two restaurants. When it was time to eat they insisted on going into one of the restaurants with me and pleading my case with the proprietor. There was much whispering and finally after some minutes the proprietor said, “All right, I’ll give him reduced rates.” Reduced rates and I didn’t have a cent in my pockets! I thanked my well-meaning friends, went into the other restaurant alone, and received a bounteous meal. I am sure that had I spoken to that first man myself, I would have had no trouble obtaining food. Another time, because of the solicitude of some CCC boys, I found myself without a bed at three o’clock in the morning: they had insisted that I sleep at their camp five miles away, and when I had arrived, their superior objected strongly.

Travel by highway and not be rail.Automobiles provide slower travel but the rails have more serious disadvantages, not only the filthy and bumpy riding of the freight cars but also in danger. You may be arrested and locked up for vagrancy, you may be beaten up, you may even encounter that certain railroad detective who stands by the tracks with a rifle and picks off the bums as the cars roll into the freight yard…Another reason for working the highway is that through hitches one learns of jobs to be had. Friendly drivers have informed me that one can earn $1.50 a day and board in a lumber camp, $3.00 a day picking apples, $.06 a barrel picking potatoes (the average worker fills about a hundred barrels a day) et cetera. The field of seasonal labor is tremendous and extends all over the United States. By traveling from state to state one can be employed practically every month of the year, and there is always more demand than supply, the wages are high. Also, people in automobiles sometimes become really interested in you and offer you employment. This does not happen too infrequently. I should say that I average about one offer every three days. I have been a gardener, a waiter, a gravedigger, a fisherman, a lumberman, a farm hand, a clerk, a newspaper reporter, a ghost-writer, a chauffeur, a toy salesman, and garbageman. I never keep these jobs long because I am over-fond of the road, and after a week in one place I long to be on an open truck again, watching houses slip by and the land change.

Speak forthrightly. Do not slink, speak too humbly, or cast your eyes down when you make a request. Address most men as “sir” and speak to them in such a way that they will call you “old man.” Women should be talked to lightly, gallantly. There are of course many exceptions to these rules but one learns to recognize them by their faces.

Do not use hyperbole. To say “I haven’t eaten in two days” just doesn’t convince the average person, or else it scares him. That a man hasn’t eaten in two days is a strange thing to most people and they react unfortunately to the information. Merely to say that you haven’t eaten breakfast that day is enough to provoke the sympathy of the housewife.

How about other necessaries: tobacco, clothing, beer?Well, people never refuse you when you ask for a cigarette; very often they give you three or five. As far as beer is concerned, any number of people you talk to on the street invite you to a bar, particularly if your tales are interesting. Also, bartenders at closing time are apt to be friendly. Clothes are more difficult to obtain. It is best to enter a small haberdashery and explain that you’ve just arrived in town and that you’re looking for a job-obviously you can’t get work when your shirt is so torn, et cetera.

Don’t sleep in dubious jails and flophouses.Try to find a farm house before dusk so that you can ask the farmer to let you sleep in his barn. Hay makes a very warm and satisfactory bed, it molds exactly to the body…But if the farmer refuses to let you use his barn for a bedroom, ask him to give you some newspapers. Then go into a pasture, build a fire, wait for it to die out, spread the ashes, cover them lightly with dirt, and you have prepared a bed that will stay warm all night. For covering, use the newspapers and a poncho (you should always carry a poncho with you, they make excellent raincoats, tents, and blankets). Or you can go to a garage, garagemen will often let you sleep in cars; furnacemen will let you sleep next to the furnace, et cetera.

I did not leave home because of an impossible wife or because I could not get employment-I had no wife and I had a well paying job with a millinery house, a job into which I had been recruited because I had never become excited about a future and planned it. But I was not happy in the city and more than others I looked forward to vacations; at those times I would travel constantly trying to absorb as much as possible. I found it increasingly difficult to return after each vacation. Finally, the inevitable happened. I just didn’t return, I just kept on going. It really made no difference. I had no dependents and milliners could show bad taste without my aid. Now I am completely happy. All the infinite phases of nature I can observe at leisure, all the different types of country I can live with in their optimums. The spring I spend in the West, the summer in the far North, the fall in New England, the winter in the South. In a few years I shall probably want to go to Europe, and I shall go. And since I have been on the road I have in many ways improved myself: my sensitivities have been sharpened (I even write poetry now, and it’s not too bad), my education extended, and my health become superb. I don’t know whether I shall ever settle down again, and I don’t much care.

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It’s every man’s worst fear. You’re at someone’s house, you  finish doing your business and flush the toilet, but instead of going down, the water comes up along with whatever you just deposited in the bowl. Would you be paralyzed with panic in that moment? Or do you know what to do?

For some reason, the lot has fallen to men to deal with clogged toilets. I guess in a time when we’re no longer needed to ride out in defense of the tribe,  our toughness is marshaled to do battle in the bathroom. But many men charge in brandishing their plunger but lacking a game plan on how to attack the clog. To help us learn how to effectively unclog a toilet, I called up Rod from Roto-Rooter and got the scoop.  Here’s his advice.

Stop the toilet bowl from filling up. If it looks like the water might overflow out of the toilet, Rod suggests taking the lid off the tank as quickly as possible and closing the toilet flapper. The flapper releases water from the tank and into the bowl. It looks like, well, a flapper. If you’re worried that your flush has a good chance of turning into a flood, take off the top before you pull the trigger. Then you can keep one hand close to the flapper while the other hands pushes the flusher. The minute it appears the water is rising, you’re ready to stop the deluge.

Toilet flapper (Image source: The Jay)

Get the right plunger. Once disaster has been averted, it’s time to unsheathe your plunger. To effectively use a plunger, you need a good seal between it and the toilet bowl. Funnel-cup plungers are the best plungers for this. They’re the plungers with a flange, or added piece, extending off the bottom of the rubber cup.

Funnel-cup plunger

Warm up your plunger. Stiff, hard plungers don’t work as well as soft and pliant ones. Run your plunger under some hot water before you use it. This will soften up the rubber, which will help you get a better seal on the toilet bowl.

Plunge correctly. Stick the plunger in the bowl and use it to form a solid seal over the exit hole. Rod said that most people only focus on the downward push when plunging. But the pullback is just as important. Give a few good up and down strokes with the plunger and flush the toilet. If the water clears from the toilet, then you’ve successfully unclogged it. If the toilet starts overflowing again, just close the flapper to stop water from entering the bowl. Repeat the plunge and flush sequence until your clog is gone.

Secret Plumber Trick: Add Hot Water and dishwasher detergent. Add a few cups of hot water to the toilet bowl before you start plunging. After you pour the hot water in, let it sit for a few minutes. To put it mildly, the heat helps break the, um, stuff up. This will make unclogging the toilet with the plunger much, much easier. The heat from the hot water can sometimes break up the clog without plunging, so this could be a good tactic to use if you a clog a toilet at a friends house and you don’t want to face the embarrassment of asking for a plunger.

Also, try adding some dishwasher detergent to the mix. The soap can help break the clog up, as well.

(Hat tip Ryan and Jim in the comments).

For harder clogs, use an auger. If the plunger doesn’t work, Rod says it’s time to bust out the auger. An auger is a cable like device that you snake through the toilet hole to help loosen up a clog. You can find augers at most hardware stores.

Toilet auger

To use an auger, you simply snake the cable down the hole. Start turning the crank on the end you’re holding until it stops. This means you’ve reached your clog. The auger will either break up the clog or hook on to it. If it feels like you’ve hooked the clog, pull it out. Discard any waste on the end of the auger. Give the toilet a few good plunges to clear up any left over blockage. Flush. Shazam! Cleared toilet.

When to call the plumber. There are times when your own efforts just aren’t enough. How do you know when it’s time to call in the professionals to battle your clog? Rod says that if you see water backing up in the sinks or showers whenever you flush, it’s time to bring in a plumber. Water backing up in odd locations when you flush means you have a clogged main line. A plunger and auger won’t get the job done.

Avoiding clogged toilets. Rod’s parting advice was to avoid clogs in the first place. First, teach children that the toilet is not a Jacuzzi or water ride for their GI Joes. Rod says that the majority of his work with clogged toilets involves toys and other items that kids have flushed down the toilet.

Rod also says it’s important to ensure the jets around the toilet bowl’s edge are nice and clean. Stopped up jets will prevent the toilet from flushing at full power which in turn prevents you from clearing out the toilet and its contents. Weekly toilet cleaning with a brush will prevent build-up. If you haven’t cleaned the toilet in a while, you’ll probably have mega buildup. Rod suggests using an Allen wrench or screwdriver to clear out the junk.

Finally, take it easy on the paper. You don’t need an entire roll to wipe your bum.

Any more tips on how to unclog a toilet? Share them with us in the comments!

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Editor’s Note: On Tuesdays, we occasionally feature an excellent article that was originally posted in the Art of Manliness Community by a community member. Today we’ve selected a post from Joseph P. Lenze.

I have circumnavigated the earth on a shoestring budget without the use of an airplane by traveling through 43 countries via land and sea. By traveling on a freighter ship across the north Pacific, camel-trekking through the Sahara, and riding a horse at full gallop across the wide open Mongolian countryside, I not only learned about the 43 countries I traveled through, but I picked up a few great international backpacking tips. In this post I share 7 of the most useful.

1. Take advantage of ATMs

Automatic Teller Machines (ATMs) are available in almost every country, at least in the larger or capital cities. Many people are unaware that their bank card will generally work in these, and they can withdraw money in the local currency. The advantages are huge – you don’t have to carry around massive amounts of cash, mess around with travelers checks, or go through the process of changing money. The ATM fees that your bank charges are comparable to the money you’ll lose with local money changers.

2. Wash your clothes in the shower

Oftentimes you’ll find yourself without access to a proper washing machine. You can solve this by wearing your dirty clothes into a shower and washing your clothes on your body with soap. Just like a regular shower, pay attention to your armpits and areas that get particularly dirty. It works.

3. Stash an emergency $100 or 100 Euro bill

Many backpackers use a daypack for their daily excursions, while keeping their main pack at a hostel, ger, guesthouse, hotel, or in storage. Keep an emergency $100 or 100 Euro bill stashed in the main pack in case you lose your money in your day pack. In a small Polish border town I lost my ATM card. Fortunately, I had enough with my “stash” money to buy a ticket to Warsaw (civilization). Once in Warsaw I was able to get phone and internet access and start solving problems. Make sure to choose a well-known, well accepted currency.

4. Know visa requirements for each country

This seems like a no-brainer, but in northern China I saw a lot of suckers paying good money for a Mongolian visa when you didn’t need one to travel there as a U.S. citizen. On the other hand, in 2005, I tried to sneak through Ukraine without a transit visa and customs deported me back to the middle-of-nowhere Russia which ended up costing me a couple of days.

5. Preemptively avoid a mugging

If you’ve done your AoM homework, then you’ve been on a good weight training program and you know how to look people in the eye and speak with confidence. This will help preempt any potential muggers.  When you’re in a situation that just doesn’t feel right – maybe with a shady acting cab driver in Mexico City or a tuk-tuk driver in Bangkok who seems to be taking you the wrong way – you want to subtly give the impression that you’re not an easy target. Many times, I simply mentioned that I’m “visiting xxxx to continue my (MMA, muay thai, boxing, knife fighting, bear wrestling) training.” Make it believable and be confident – if you’re a foreigner running around a shady section of Bangkok at night, your story doesn’t sound too far-fetched.

6. Use a sleep-sheet

A sleep-sheet is an unlined sleeping bag without a zipper, generally made of canvas, cotton, or silk. Now you can stay in some dingy hostel, guesthouse, or other gnarly accommodation and your body only touches the inside of your sleep-sheet. It takes off the stress of wondering “Where has this blanket been?” and “Who or what slept here last night?” Thanks to my sleep-sheet, I slept like a baby when my Cambodian guesthouse wall said “Beware of Bedbugs.”

7. Baby powder is your friend

I learned this trick from a female soldier friend who spent long nights in a foxhole during training. If you can’t wash your hair, throw some baby powder in it and it will leave you feeling fresh. After a long-day hiking, walking, or stuck in a train, sprinkle some into your boots or shoes. Staying dry is a paramount concern when backpacking. Additionally, it’s a simple way to “freshen up” up after a long day of adventures.

I hope these tips serve you well. The picture below is in the port of Osaka, Japan after a winter crossing of the North Pacific on a freighter…for credibility’s sake. Cheers!

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