Last May we did a tie giveaway with the Mountain and Sackett tie company, which has been making handmade neckware right here in America since 1957. The giveaway was a big hit with readers, so we decided to bring it back again. And with the holidays coming up, we wanted to help you look sharp for the seasonal parties you’ll be attending.

What’s Up For Grabs

The winner of the giveaway will get to choose any one of Mountain and Sackett’s ties as their prize. Need a narrow tie in your collection? How about a solid wool tie? And of course don’t forget the ties that Mountain and Sackett is famous for-their regimentals. Mountain and Sackett ’s regimental ties are the world’s only 100% handmade ties. No machine touches these beauties. Cruise through Mountain and Sackett’s collection and pick the one you’d like to be wearing around your neck when you kiss your gal under the mistletoe.

How to Enter

Entering is easy. Just follow these two simple steps:

1. Visit the Mountain and Sackett website and pick out the style and color you would like for your tie if you’re lucky enough to be selected as the winner.

2. Share your selection with us in the comments section. You don’t have to post the link-just a description. (Posting the link may cause your comment to be filtered as spam).

Everyone who enters the contest will be emailed a code for a 20% discount on Mountain and Sackett ties at the conclusion of the contest.

A winner will be drawn randomly from the entries. The deadline for entry into the contest is Sunday, November 22 at 11PM EST.

What are you waiting for? Enter today!

If you’re looking for new ways to tie a tie, check out our videos on how to tie a tie.

• Announcing the Winner of the Mountain and Sackett Authentic Regimental Tie Giveaway
• Cravatology 101 and the Mountain and Sackett Authentic Regimental Tie Giveaway
• Reminder and Update: Enter A Tailored Suit Custom Dress Shirt Giveaway and Get a 20% Discount
• Outback Steakhouse Gift Certificate Giveaway Winner!
• The Weekly Link Round-Up: October 17, 2009

Image from Millie Motts

Why should a man care about dry cleaning?

1. When your expensive clothing is damaged or lost, what can you do? I’m sure many of you reading this have been burned when it comes to having a garment come back missing buttons, torn, or in the worst case scenario-doesn’t come back at all.  You may have purchased your suit for $2,000, but if it vanishes you’ll be lucky to see 1/10^th of that.  The key to preventing a loss is up-front preparation – which we’ll discuss below.
2. Dry cleaning your clothing unnecessarily shortens the usable life of your garments. I’ve met men who dry clean their clothing once a week – others twice a year.  When should you dry clean and what are the effects of the dry cleaning solvent on your suit’s wool fibers?  We’ll get into the details here.
3. You should understand what you are spending your money on. What’s the difference between the dry cleaner next to your house that charges 99 cents per shirt vs. the one near your office that charges triple that?  Is the more expensive one worth the money?  We’ll discuss ways to measure the quality of a dry cleaner and choose the best one for your needs.

What is dry cleaning?

Dry cleaning is a cleansing process that uses a solvent called perchlorethylene or DF2000 to clean clothing.  The perc (as it’s called in the industry) is run through the garment and then extracted along with dislodged oils, food, dust, and other unwanted dirt particles.  Since soap & water are not used in the process, it’s called “dry” cleaning.

Make sure your garments are properly tagged - this is where most problems start!

The dry cleaning process starts when you drop your clothing off; first it’s tagged and then sorted by whether it needs to be dry cleaned, laundered, pressed, or altered.  At this point the clothing is often moved to another location; in fact, it’s not uncommon for all the dry cleaners in an area to use the same contractor or be owned by a few companies.  This is why many cannot offer same day service or when “they” lose a garment you’re out of luck because the garment is lost in a much larger system than just the facility you dropped it off at.  Also, despite two cleaners charging different prices for the same service, if they use the same master cleaning facility, you are receiving no added benefit despite paying more.  I always look to use cleaners who do their work in house – I like knowing my garments are kept right where I dropped them off and handled by the person I gave them to.

Back to the process – after the drop-off stains are pre-treated (note – it’s very important you point out stains and label what the stain is so that it is treated properly) and the clothing is loaded into large machines where they sit in baskets and rotate in perchlorethylene – the perc is then drained using centrifugal force (shirts and other cotton garments are more often simply laundered with water and soap – it’s less expensive and does the job without damaging the fabric).  A good cleaning facility will then inspect clothing for any remaining soiled spots and post-treat if necessary.  Next the clothing is lightly steamed, pressed, and ironed where applicable.  Finally, garments are sorted out, shipped if necessary, and then stored for pick-up.

Always ask: Does your suit or shirt really need to be dry cleaned?

Most of us dry clean our delicate clothing way too much; more often than not simply brushing your wool sports jacket and hanging it in a well ventilated area will eliminate odors caused by light smoke or food.  If you spill food or drink on the garment, simply spot clean it as necessary by gently blotting the cotton or wool fabric with clean water.   Stains that require quick attention such as mustard or red wine, especially on light colored or silk fabrics, should be taken to the cleaners the next morning.  Immediate action after the spill should be to change the garment if possible, slip it off in the case of a tie, or carry on as if it doesn’t bother you.  Avoid home remedies such as club soda and salt and never rub a stain or put water on a fabric that can’t be washed in water (ties especially) – you’re just as likely to damage the fabric, especially if it’s fragile.

How often should a person dry clean their wool clothing?

There is no right answer here; an architect who wears a sports jacket to the job site in Orlando is going to soil his jacket much faster than a computer engineer wearing the same jacket in the Bay Area.  My guidance here is when brushing, spot cleaning, and airing out no longer do the trick….take the wool garment into a quality cleaner.  Dry clean when you must, not on a set schedule that will strip and weaken the wool fibers and damage their ability to crimp, thus unnecessarily aging the garment.

The specialized machinery that cleans, steams, and presses your clothing.

How should a man select a dry cleaner?

Selecting a dry cleaner is very similar to selecting a tailor – click here for my seven rules on that process.  In addition to the 7 tips on how to select a tailor, use the five rules below to significantly reduce the likelihood of disappointment at the dry cleaners.

1. What is their lost garment/damage to clothing policy? Do they replace or give you depreciated value as listed in the International Fabricare Institute’s Fair Claims Guide?  What this means is that a three year old custom suit bought for 2K can be argued by a cleaner to only be worth 200 dollars.  So was saving that $5 worth it?  Always choose a cleaner with a great replacement policy.
2. Are they clear on their pricing? Do they try the old “bait and switch” trick, and if so, what does this say about the integrity of the cleaner?  Make sure to ask how much you’ll be charged upon picking up your item – the lowest price guarantee that brought you into the store may only apply to one item, and even the listed prices may just be starting prices not including extra costs applied to specialty garments.
3. How long have they been in business under their current name? Be wary of a cleaner that has changed ownership and names every few years.  In the case you do have an issue with a cleaner, take them to court, and win, collecting on a judgment is notoriously difficult because unless they voluntarily pay up, you need to force a withdrawal.  Dry cleaning businesses can often maintain multiple bank accounts under various names and you may end up filing with a court a half dozen times for a sum that quickly becomes not worth the effort.
4. What level of training do they have? When you hand the person behind the counter a silk shirt and ask for it to be laundered, you want someone behind the counter to  suggest that the shirt be carefully dry cleaned instead, since a harsh washing method like laundering would destroy the shirt.  Don’t be afraid to ask about trainings and “test” their knowledge of the cleaning process.
5. Are they environmentally friendly? Repeated exposure to large amounts of perc can cause cancer in humans. I am very pleased to see professionals in the industry such as Jerry Pozniak moving to a chemical free cleaning process that involves CO2.  In addition to being friendly to the environment, it is a superior cleaner to petrochemicals.

How to protect yourself in case of lost or damaged clothing

Do your homework. Do a Google search and locate any online reviews – what are others saying about how the dry cleaner reacted when something went wrong?  Now realize a customer’s view is only one side of the story and an upset customer is more likely to report a problem than a satisfied one is to give praise – so don’t let a single review scare you off.  But don’t ignore it either.  Give them a call and ask a few questions – are they friendly and competent or rude and unhelpful?  Are they on America’s Best Cleaners list?

Maintain your records. Ensure that when you drop off your clothing you receive a detailed receipt.  It should have a legible description of what you dropped off, when it was dropped off, who it was left with, and what you asked to have done.  For most shops this isn’t standard, and may be met with a frown, especially at rush hour.  But without it it’s your word vs. theirs if something goes wrong.  Also, you should have photographs or video of all your valuable clothing – the great part here is that this can also be used for your home insurance records as well.

Foster a relationship of trust. The best way to protect yourself is to create a long term relationship with a merchant that builds trust between both parties.  The men and women in the dry cleaning industry are like anyone else, and will often bend over backwards for a customer they like.  You have to understand the margins in this industry are paper thin, and many of these companies would go out of business if it wasn’t for family members pitching in.  However, they often do realize a long-term relationship isn’t about a single sale and are very interested in building loyalty and repeat business.  So strike up a conversation, tip if the service warrants, learn their names and ask about their family – because when you lose that receipt, and they lose the garment, more often than not an agreeable settlement will be reached.

A big thank you to Martin and Tanya Martin of Martin’s 1 hour cleaners in Shawano, WI for the images.  I’d also like to point out one of our commentors improved upon this write-up with her own dry cleaning article at Geek in Heels – it’s great so check it out!

Written by
Antonio Centeno
President, A Tailored Suit
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To kick off Movember, the month-long mustache growing contest for charity, we’ve put together this list of the manliest mustaches in history. Enjoy!

Tom Selleck

When pre-pubescent mustaches grow up, they want to be Tom Selleck’s mustache. It’s a modern mustache masterpiece. Magnum P.I. wouldn’t have been the same with some dude with a naked upper lip.

Walter Cronkite

Walter Cronkite’s mustache was the most trustworthy mustache in all of news history. And that’s the way it is…

Eddie Murphy

During the 1980s and early 90s, no mustache was funnier than Eddie Murphy’s. We won’t hold Eddie Murphy’s mustache responsible for Daddy Day Care or Norbit.

Alex Trebek

I’ll take game show host who lost major manliness points when he shaved his mustache for $800, Alex.

Daniel Plainview

Daniel Plainview’s mustache will drink your milkshake. And then bludgeon you to death with a bowling pin.

Hussein bin Talal

The King of Jordan’s mustache had an uber-manly lineage; it can be be traced all the way back to the Prophet Muhammad. Today, his son Abdullah II carries on his father’s peaceful policies and the manly mustache.

Errol Flynn

Australian film star Errol Flynn had a swashbuckling mustache that could make even tights look manly.

Rollie Fingers

Rollie Fingers brought back the waxed handlebar mustaches rocked by the baseball players of yore. Diamondbacks relief pitcher Clay Zavada carries that torch today.

Steve Prefontaine

Scientists have proven that the secret to Steve Prefontaine’s record-setting running times was the aerodynamics of his mustache.

Wyatt Earp

Wyatt Earp is a Western legend. Some sources say he killed up to 30 men during his time as a lawman in the American frontier. He didn’t even have to use bullets; his mustache knocked em’ over cold.

Ron Burgundy

Ron Burgundy is the manliest fictional news anchor to ever live. He loves scotch (scotchy, scotch, scotch), leather-bound books, and the smell of rich mahogany. And of course, he had a kick ass mustache that injected the news with testosterone.

Clark Gable

Clark Gable’s mustache doesn’t give a damn.

Friedrich Nietzsche

Nietzsche’s mustache can provide meaning to the life of even the most strident nihilist. Look at that thing. Awe inspiring.

Genghis Khan

Not only did Genghis Khan grow a manly mustache and rule over the largest empire in history, he also rocked the flavor saver way before it was cool. Wait, was the flavor saver ever cool?

Mark Twain

Mark Twain had some strong words to say about beards: “It performs no useful function; it is a nuisance and a discomfort; all nations hate it; all nations persecute it with the razor.” Guess that’s why he decided to go with an awesome mustache instead.

Martin Luther King Jr.

I have a dream, a dream that all men will grow a mustache as magnificent as MLK’s.

Mark Spitz

Michael Phelps may now have more medals, but Spitz’s mustache could beat Phelp’s any day of the week.

• 20 Manliest Mustaches and Beards From Facial Hair History
• The Best of The Art of Manliness: November 2008
• The Art of Manliness Movember Contest 2009
• A Treatise on the Mustache
• Weekly Link Round-Up: September 19, 2009

AMC’s Mad Men is one of television’s most popular shows right now. Yeah, the story is good, but the attention to retro detail and the classic style of Don Draper and crew is at least an equal attraction. Well-tailored grey suits, pocket squares, and skinny ties makes the men on the show look cool, sophisticated, and manly.

But that classic and masculine look would be ruined if Don Draper sported a dopey looking haircut. Do you think advertising clients and women would take Don Draper seriously if he combed his hair forward and spiked it up front like many young men do these days? I don’t think so.

Don Draper and the other men at Sterling Cooper have haircuts that demand that you take them seriously. Your grandpa probably did his hair the same way: tight on the sides with a sharp part on the left side of the head. And of course, the hair needs that healthy looking shine.

Unfortunately, many men today walk around with the same boyish haircuts they’ve had since high school. Sure, your hair spiked in the front or tussled carelessly looked cool when you were 17, but it looks goofy when you’re 30. You want a haircut that looks manly, not juvenile.

To help upgrade your hairstyle to something more respectable, we provide the following tips from the Emmy Award-winning hairstylist of Mad Men, Gloria Ponce.

How to Get the Mad Man Hairstyles

The hair product. If you really want to recapture that slicked back, clean look of the 40’s, 50’s, and 60’s, get your hands on some Brylcreem. The stuff is a little greasy, but boy it really makes a man’s hair look nice. It smells pretty damn manly, too. I’ve used Brylcreem to style my hair for awhile now. My wife loves the way it makes my hair look, and I get compliments on it all the time.

If gramp’s hair products are too greasy for your taste, but you still want that shiny, put together look, try the modern products used by the Mad Men hairstylist. Gloria Ponce uses American Crew hair products on the Mad Men set. Her go to product for all the male actors is American Crew Pomade. The pomade gives you the same hold and shine as Brylcreem, but it isn’t as greasy. She’ll also use American Crew Firm Hold Styling Gel when the hair really needs to stay in place. Unlike other gels, this gel doesn’t flake and leave you looking like you have a bad case of dandruff. Plus it gives you that nice Mad Men shine without making your hair as hard as a helmet.

It comes down to a matter of preference on whether you go the Brylcreem or the American Crew route. They’ll both give you the same look. Personally, I like my Brylcreem. If it was good enough for granddad, it’s good enough for me. Plus, it’s cheaper and you can get it at your local drugstore.

The Don Draper

Tell your barber…

Ask him to cut your hair tight and tapered on the sides and leave it long and full on the top. Tell the barber that you also want your part on the left side of your head. Yeah, I said part. The part demands respect. The part is powerful. Your barber can cut your hair in order to help your hair part more easily.

To style…

Take your hair product of choice and run it through your hair while it’s still damp. Take your comb and create your part on the left side of your head. Create a small wave on the front of your hair by combing your bangs up and back towards the right. Comb back the sides of your hair. Bada-bing! Instant Draper.

The Pete Campbell

Tell your barber…

Like with the Draper-do, you’ll want it nice and tight on the sides. The only difference is to have your barber cut it a bit shorter on the top than you would with the Don Draper hairstyle. And if you want to part it on the right, ala Pete, tell him that too.

To style…

Use a bit more product. Pete Campbell’s hairstyle is much more slick and wet looking than the other characters. When you comb it, start off with a sharp part on the right side of your head. When you create the wave in the front, keep it close to the head. It’s not as high as some of the other men on the show. Pete’s style is good for younger men or men with smaller frames.

The Roger Sterling

Tell your barber…

Sterling’s look is much shorter and barbered than the other men on the show. It’s almost like a military cut. Get it cut short on the top, but leave it long enough so that you can comb a part on the right side of your head. Sides are tight. Make sure he tapers the sides so they blend in nicely with the top. You won’t want any lines like you have a bowl cut.

To style…

Add product to your damp hair and comb it over to create your part. Create the wave in the front. Because your hair is shorter, it won’t be as high as Don Draper’s. Comb back the sides. Now you’re ready schmooze with clients at a 12 martini lunch.

Final Note: If you really want to ensure that your barber gets your haircut the way you want it, print off this post and show him a picture of the haircut you want. You can never go wrong doing that.

• How to Pick a Barber
• The Art of Manliness Weekly Roundup: Barber Shop Edition
• Rediscovering the Barbershop
• How to Make a Bed You Can Bounce a Quarter Off Of
• The Perfect Hat For Your Ugly Mug

Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Dil Uppal. For more skin care tips for men, check out Mr. Uppal’s blog: SCforM.

Bacne. It’s an unpleasant word to write and to read and yet unfortunately we must as this is one of the most common forms of acne you’ll find on a man. Thanks to the over-active sebaceous glands on our backs coupled with hair and several other factors, men are very susceptible to this difficult form of acne.

Bacne can leave a man embarrassed about removing his shirt in front of a lady or at the swimming pool . But thankfully it’s easily treated in a way that requires minimal back-bending and grunting. The first thing you’ll need to do is ascertain what’s causing it; then you can begin treatment.

Causes of Bacne

• Shampoo, soap and body wash. Many soaps and shampoos contain ingredients with the potential to clog pores and create spots on your back. Eliminate anything fancy or scented and stick to plain washes for sensitive skin such as Sanex. An even better option is to use a soap especially made for treating bacne like Phisoderm Anti-Blemish Body Wash or Neutrogena’s Body Clear Body Wash.
• Hair products.  If you wear hair products and live in warmer climes, your gel/wax/spray can melt during the day and slowly trickle down your back and into your pores. This will  cause breakouts of spots all over your upper back. Try minimizing the amount of product you use in your hair and see if it makes a difference. At night, be sure to thoroughly wash your hair clean of any product. Washing twice should do the trick.
• Hygiene. Possibly a no-brainer to some but you’d be surprised how often men overlook the rules of basic hygiene and yet still wonder why they’re breaking out. Shower daily and/or after working out, wear a clean shirt every day, and make sure any towel you use on your body is clean and bone dry; the same goes for your bed sheets.
• Exercise.  If you’re a man that likes to work out, bear in mind that tight fitting clothes will only exacerbate the thousands of sebaceous glands on your back with excessive warmth and sweat. Remedy this by wearing a clean cotton shirt when exercising and remember to shower immediately afterwards! A lot of guys sit around in their sweaty shirt for hours after a work out, and this breeds bacteria and break-outs on their back.
• Internal factors. If you’ve eliminated any offending soaps, shampoos or dirty towels and your problem is still persistent, you have bacne caused by either hormones or pores clogged by the accumulation of dead skin cells. There are 2 ways to treat this, best used in conjunction.

Bacne Treatments

1. AHAs (or Alpha Hydroxy Acids) work by getting rid of the uppermost layer of skin from your body – exfoliation, in short. Try using a body wash containing AHAs like the AHA Botanical Body Soap from Mario Badescu to keep your back smooth and clear of any potentially-clogging dead skin cells. Don’t use a physical scrub with beads or a loofah as this will most likely irritate the acne and spread the bacteria across your back.

2. BHAs (or Beta Hydroxy Acids) work by cleaning out the gunk from inside your pores and are the most effective treatment against acne of any variety. If you can reach, try swiping Stridex pads across the areas of acne – the ones in the red box are the strongest. If not, you can use my personal favourite – Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid and transfer it to a spray bottle that you can then spray onto your back. If you’re lazy, Clinique and Murad both carry pre-made anti-acne body sprays (the Murad one also contains Retinol, making it a very potent treatment). Apply these to dry skin post-shower and use enough to cover the area lightly. Wait for the liquid to dry before dressing.

Follow those steps and soon enough your back will be ready and primed for any sunbathing or muscle flexing that comes your way!

• Keeping It Fresh: Avoiding Bad Breath, Body Odor, and Cheap Cologne
• Ritual Men’s Grooming Products Giveaway!
• How To Shave Like Your Grandpa
• 30 Days to a Better Man Day 30: Get a Straight Razor Shave
• The Virtuous Life: Cleanliness

Our very first post on the Art of Manliness was a introductory guide to shaving like your grandpa with a double edged safety razor. Since then, we’ve received requests to do a similar article on straight razor shaving. Well, after months of experimenting with straight razor shaving myself and researching the subject in old books on barbering, I present this beginner’s guide to shaving like your great-grandpa. I couldn’t possibly put everything there is to know about straight razor shaving in a single article, but the following presents the essentials of this old time shaving ritual.

Benefits of Straight Razor Shaving

Better shaves. I thought my shaves couldn’t get any better after I upgraded from my Mach5 to an old school safety razor. I was wrong. The first time I shaved with a straight razor, my face looked as smooth as a baby’s behind. My wife noticed the difference without me even telling her what I had done and declared that it was the smoothest she’d ever seen.  So make the switch to a straight razor. Your face will thank you for it.

Reduced costs. The upfront costs to get started with straight razor shaving are a bit on the expensive side. But after you buy all the gear, you’re set for life. You’ll never have to buy razor cartridges or double edge blades ever again. Just give your straight razor a nice stropping and you’re good to go. The only cost you’ll have from here on out is an occasional tube of shaving cream.

Environmentally friendly. Today’s modern shaving racket creates needless waste. When you’re done with a cartridge, you have to throw it out. When you buy new cartridges, you’re left with a ton of packaging material. Shaving with a safety razor reduces this waste, but straight razors take it one step further. The only waste you’ll create is biodegradable shaving scum. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it, greenies.

Meditative. Straight razor shaving has meditative benefits. It’s a craft that requires you to slow down and really focus on what you’re doing. After a few times of shaving with a straight razor, you just might start to notice yourself entering an incredibly manly zen-like state.

You’ll feel like more of a bad ass. You’ll be shaving with a tool that can double as a lethal weapon. Putting razor sharp steel next to your throat every morning reminds you that you’re alive.

The Tools

The Razor. Your most important tool is your razor. Don’t get skimpy with your razor and buy the cheapest one. You don’t want the cheapest; you want the best. Poor razors end up being more trouble than they’re worth. They will irritate your skin and cause nicks and cuts that will annoy you as long as you use it. A good quality razor, on the other hand, is a joy to use. If well maintained, a good razor will last for years. Your great-grandsons might even use it.

You can purchase straight razors either new or used. You can find used straight razors on ebay and antique stores. Used razors will likely have imperfections in the blade that will require professional honing.  A professional blade restoration will set you back about 30 bones, but it will save you from cutting the crap out of your face.

If you’d like a new razor, check out classicshaving.com or straightrazordesigns.com. You can purchase pre-sharpened blades that are ready to use the first time you shave for about $130.

When shopping for razors, consider the following factors:

1. Check the steel’s quality. A razor with good temper sharpens better than poorer quality steels. One way to check if you have a well tempered blade is to catch the point of the blade under your thumbnail and let it slip off quickly. If the blade gives a good clear ring, it’s likely well tempered. If it doesn’t, the blade was likely tempered unevenly.
2. Most modern straight razors are ground with a hollow. Hollowing places a concave on each side of the blade that makes the razor lighter, sharper, and easier to handle. You can purchase blades with varying degrees of hollowing. While full concaves will give you the sharpest edge, it’s not recommend for beginners. When such an edge comes in contact with a stiff beard, unless you hold the blade very flat on the face, it is quite likely to bend and spring, resulting in a cut.
3. Also consider the blade’s width when selecting a straight razor. Don’t select one that’s too wide. Look for a 5/8 size. It’s easy to control and follows your face’s contours more closely than other blades.
4. Finally, consider what type of blade point you want. Blades come in either rounded or sharp points. Sharp points have a tendency to nick and cut, so go with a rounded point.

Suggested Razors

Dovo Straight Razor with Black Handle 5/8″
Le Grelot Red Stamina 5/8″

Dovo All Steel Straight Razor 5/8″
Dovo Red Wood Straight Razor 5/8″

The Hone. When you look at a razor’s edge under a microscope, you’ll see that it’s composed of several points that resemble saw teeth. When a razor becomes dull, these teeth are irregular and point in different directions. Honing a blade restores these teeth to their original condition.

The $10 whetstone you use to sharpen your pocketknife won’t work as a hone for your razor blade. They’re just too coarse for shaving blades. We need a quality hone with finer grit to get that sharp clean edge that will make shaving comfortable. A wood working whetsone with a 4,000/8,000 grit combination will work, and you can easily find them at most hardware stores or online.

Another hone option is a ceramic or “barber hone.” These are little trickier to find. Most are vintage, and you’ll have to scour eBay or antique stores to find one. Because they’re less coarse than traditional whetstones, ceramic hones require more strokes to sharpen your razor.

Suggested Hones

Norton 4,000/8,0000 Grit Combo Whetstone

If you want to find a ceramic barber hone, look on eBay.

The Strop. A blade taken directly from a hone is left rough and unfit to put on the face. Stropping your blade smooths the rough edges off your blade and sets those teeth in perfect alignment. This gives your straight razor that keen edge that makes shaving a breeze.

The most common strop is the hanging strop. Hanging strops consist of two parts: one canvas strip and one leather strip. Again, don’t get chintzy with your strop. Cheaper models use coarse canvas and leather. Unless you want to ruin your razor, you should never put it to such a sub-par strop.

Suggested Strops

Fromm Leather Strop
Edwin Jager Strop
Heirloom Razor Strop Co. (Company is owned by a guy named Tony that makes strops as a side business. His strops come highly recommended. Right now, he’s not selling strops, but should start again later this month. Check back!)
Straight Razor Designs Strops

Brush. A brush helps hydrate the shaving cream in order to form a thick and rich shaving lather. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves. Plus, it just feels nice on your face to lather up with a brush.

Brushes are made of either boar or badger hair. Boar hair brushes costs less, but they hold less moisture and consequently create a poor lather. Badger hair brushes cost more, but they produce a better lather. You can pick up a nice badger brush at any Crabtree and Evelyn. If you don’t have a Crabtree in your area, try Amazon.

Suggested Brushes
Omega Creamy Curved Handle Pure Badger Shaving Brush
Porter’s Badger Shaving Brush
Omega Brownie Junior Badger Shaving Brush with Stand

Shaving Cream or Soap. You commit shaving sacrilege when you use a straight razor with the mass-produced chemical goop that gets passed off as shaving cream. Invest in some quality shaving creams and soaps. They may cost more than the crap you buy in a can, but natural shaving creams and soaps nourish your face and make you feel absolutely manly. Plus, I’ve found creams and soaps last longer than shaving gels, so you end up saving money in the long run.

Suggested Creams and Soaps
Proraso Eucalyptus & Menthol Shaving Cream
Kiss My Face Fragrance Free Moisture Shave
Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood Shaving Cream Jar
Body Shop For Men Shave Cream

How to Hone a Straight Razor

Honing a razor intimidates many men. However, honing isn’t that hard once you know how to do it properly. This quick guide will show you how.

1. Wipe the stone clean

2. If you’re using a whetstone, you’ll need to add a lubricant to the stone’s surface. Water, oil, or even a bit of shaving lather can work. The lubricant serves two purposes. First, it prevents the blade from heating up as you scrape it across the stone. If the blade gets too hot, you can actually cause some warping in the metal which will ruin the blade. Second, lubricant clears off any steel and stone particles that are created during honing. You need a clear surface to get the job done right.

If you’re using a ceramic stone, you don’t have to add lubrication.

3. Lay the stone on a flat surface with the coarser side up.

4. Place the razor perfectly flat on the hone so the spine and edge touch the stone. If the edge only touches, you’ll end up with a short bevel and a dull edge.

5. Hold the razor by the shank and start sharpening. Because the blade is longer than the stone’s width, you’ll need to sweep the blade sideways as you work, so you sharpen the entire edge evenly. Draw the blade from heel to point, forward against the edge, and with moderate pressure. When honing, the blade’s edge LEADS the stroke. This means the blade’s edge should point in the direction you stroke.

6. Without lifting the blade from the stone, turn the edge up, so that the razor rests on the back of the blade.

7. Draw the blade from heel to point, towards you. Again, apply moderate pressure.

Diagram of proper honing

8. Continue honing until the blade is sufficiently sharp. A quick way to determine whether a blade is sharp enough is to draw the edge (from heel to point) very lightly, across a moistened thumbnail. If the blade digs into your thumbnail, with a smooth, steady grip, your blade is sufficiently sharp and is ready for stropping. A blunt razor will pass over the nail smoothly. An over-honed razor will stick into your nail and produce a harsh, disagreeable feeling.

The time required to hone your razor depends on your razor’s condition. If it’s in good shape, 8 to 10 strokes in each direction should do the trick. If you have several nicks in the razor, you’ll need to put in more time. If your razor is in really bad shape, send it to a professional cutler to have it properly ground.

Many men avoid straight razor shaving because they think they’ll have to hone the blade every time they shave. In reality, if you keep your blade dry and properly stropped, you won’t have to hone it that often. Most good blades can go 6 to 8 weeks between honings. You’ll know you need to hone it because stropping won’t sharpen it anymore.

How to Strop a Straight Razor

To get the most comfortable and effective shave, strop your straight razor every time you shave.

1. Hang your strop from your bathroom drawer using the hook on one end of the strop.

2. If you’re stropping right after honing, just use the strop’s leather side. Between shaves, start off with the canvas side before using the leather.

3. Holding the handle at the strop’s bottom in your left hand, pull the strop tight. If the strop is loose and you take your blade over it, you could end up with a rounded, dull edge, which means you’ll have to hone it more frequently.

4. Hold the razor by its shank in your right hand and place it flat on the strop on the end farthest from you. Unlike honing, the razor’s edge will TRAIL, and not lead the strokes. So, when you’re stroking the razor AWAY from you, the blade’s edge should face TOWARDS you. When you’re stroking the razor TOWARDS you, the blade’s edge should face AWAY from you.

5. Draw the blade towards you (again with edge pointing away from you), always keeping the heel of the razor in advance of the point of the razor.

6. When you reach the strop’s end, rotate the razor on its back until the un-stropped side comes in contact with the strop. The razor’s edge should face TOWARDS you now.

7. Draw the blade away from you, keeping the heel in advance of the point.

15-20 strokes in each direction on the strop should get your blade nice and sharp. If you’re first starting out with straight razor shaving, take slow and even strokes. Develop speed gradually. Once you get the hang of it, stropping a razor shouldn’t take more than 30 seconds.

How to Hold a Straight Razor

For first time straight razor shavers, a big question looming on their minds is: “How in the heck do I hold this thing?” Ask five different straight razor aficionados how to hold a straight razor and you’re likely to get five different answers. Advanced straight razor shavers change up grips depending on whether they’re shaving with, across, or against the grain or if they’re shaving a certain part of their face. For the beginner, we suggest this basic grip:

Rest the first three fingers on the back of the blade. Rest your pinkie on the blade’s tang. Place your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle. This grip gives you nice control of the razor. You may have to adjust it when you shave different parts of your face, like your upper lip or your jaw.  For more examples of how you can hold a razor, check out the Straight Razor Palace Wiki.

Everyone has their personal preference when it comes to the technique they use with a straight razor. Below we provide a suggested way to shave. As you gain experience wielding a straight razor, you’ll find yourself changing things up to suit your preference. If a particular way to shave with a straight razor works for you, then do it.

Beard Prep

For a comfortable, close shave, a little preparation before putting blade to face goes a long way. Soft whiskers cut more easily than dry whiskers. That’s why barbers wrap a hot towel around your face when you get a straight razor shave. The heat and water combination softens your beard and makes it ready for shaving. You can replicate the barbershop experience by soaking a towel in hot water, wringing it out, and placing it on your face for a few minutes.

If you don’t have the time for such luxury, just shave after you get out of a hot shower. If you want a really soft beard, rub some hair conditioner into your beard before you start showering and rinse it out when you’re done.

Lather up

Place a nickel-sized dollop of shaving cream into your mug. If you’re using shaving soap, put the soap cake at the bottom of the mug. Soak your brush in hot water. Flick excess water off the brush. With the brush, mix the cream/soap thoroughly, using a combined stirring and churning motion until a thick lather appears. The more you rub the brush on the cream, the thicker the lather.

Apply the lather to your face with your brush in swirling motions. Ensure that lather gets up under every single whisker. When you’ve covered your face completely, take a few strokes to even everything out.

The Shave Stroke

Begin with slow, even strokes and shave in the direction of your beard growth. Shaving against the grain can cause ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Hold the blade at a 30-degree angle. Anything more and you risk cutting yourself; anything less and you won’t cut the whiskers. Also, apply very little pressure when you shave. Let the razor do the work! Pressing down on the razor will only cause cuts.

Shave the Right Side of Your Face

Start off by shaving the right side of your face. Reach over your head with your left hand and draw the skin upward with your fingers, thus making a smooth shaving surface. Shave downward until you clear about half the right cheek. Slide the left hand down further until the fingers rest in the middle of the cheek. Pull the skin upward. Continue shaving downward until you shave the entire right side of the face.

Shave the Right Side Under Your Jaw

After shaving the right cheek, move on to the right jaw. Tilt your head back and to the left, exposing the skin under your right jaw. With the fingers of your left hand, draw the skin tight under the jaw. Shave downward if the beard grows in that direction.

Shave the Left Side of Your Face

Many right handed shavers switch hands to shave the left side of their face. Personally, I don’t trust the dexterity and touch in my left hand to make the switch. So I continue using my right hand to shave.

Place the fingers of your left hand in front of and just above the ear. Pull upward on the skin so as to draw the skin taut. With the razor in your right hand, toe pointing upward, reach across the face, and shave downward. Walk your left fingers down as you get to the lower part of the cheek and chin. Keep pulling the skin taut.

Shave the Left Side Under the Jaw

Tilt your head back and to the right, exposing the skin under your left jaw. Pull the skin downward with your left hand and shave with the grain.

Shave the Upper Lip

Draw the upper lip down as much as possible to tighten skin. Shave downwards.

Shaving the Chin

Draw your lower lip up as much as possible. This will pull the skin tight, making it easier to shave the whiskers underneath your lip and on your chin.

Shaving Under the Chin

Throw your head back and elevate the chin. With your left fingers , draw skin downward. Take extra care as you shave. The skin under the neck is much more sensitive and prone to cutting.

Important Note: Always wear a sweet vest when shaving with a straight razor. This greatly improves the quality of your shaves.

Should I do multiple passes?

If you want that smooth as a baby’s behind look, you’ll have to do multiple passes with the razor going across and against the grain. For the beginner, I recommend just going over your face again with a downward stroke. Shaving across and against the grain increases the chances of cutting yourself.

After you gain some experience with your straight razor, you can try adding an across the grain and against the grain pass. An across the grain pass is when you shave in the direction perpendicular to that which the beard grows. So if your whiskers grow downward on your cheek, you’ll shave across your cheek from right to left or left to right. Shaving against the grain involves shaving against the direction your beard grows. It’s basically the reverse of shaving downward.

If you decide to do multiple passes, the sequence goes thusly:

1. Shave with the grain.
2. Shave across the grain.
3. Shave against the grain.

Before each pass, wash your face off and re-lather.

Post Shave

Rinse your face off with cool water. Splash a manly smelling aftershave on your face. Witch hazel and bay rum are nice. Aftershave helps reduce skin irritation and leaves your skin looking healthy. Follow by applying a small quantity of talcum powder to your face.

Dealing with Nicks and Cuts

Cuts and nicks happen for several reasons, such as:

• Using a dull razor
• Holding the razor improperly
• Shaving with a razor that’s too hollow
• Shaving in too great a hurry
• Shaving against the grain

When you first start out with a straight razor, you’re guaranteed to cut yourself. Don’t let this discourage you. Cuts happen to even the best barbers. Just keep at it. You’ll get the hang of it.

You can stop most minor cuts and nicks by simply pressing the cut together while adding pressure. If that doesn’t work, take a syptic pencil to the cut. If you cut your jugular, well, you’re sort of screwed. So don’t do that.

Getting Started

Some might understandably balk at plunking down $150 dollars for all the tools  needed for getting started with straight razor shaving. After all, what if you don’t end up enjoying this method of shaving? (I’m pretty sure you will, but hey, you never know.) Luckily, there is a way to very cheaply dip your toes into the straight razor waters. Pick up a disposable straight razor from a beauty supply store or elsewhere. They only cost a few bucks, and there’s no need for honing and stropping. Just throw it away when the blade dulls. At that point, you’ll know if you want to go in whole hog or not.

Further Reading

As I mentioned at the beginning, this post is just a beginners guide to straight razor shaving. Hopefully, we provided you with enough info to help you get started with this glorious man ritual. But don’t end your straight razor education here. People have written gobs and gobs about straight razor shaving. Below I include a list of must read sites on straight razor shaving. These sites will fill you in on more details:

Straight Razor Place. This site has it all. An active, supportive community, an awesome Wiki, product reviews, and an epic straight razor shaving how to video. Bookmark this site.

Badger and Blade

Classic Shaving Not only do they sell straight razor gear, they also have how to articles on the subject.

Sources:

Shaving Made Easy; What the man who shaves ought to know, 1905 You can download this awesome book in a easy to read PDF format from us. Click here for more details.

The Practice and Science of Standard Barbering, 1951

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A modern day gentleman understands he does not need to be a tailor to dress well, but he realizes a basic understanding of maintaining and repairing one of life’s necessities is an asset he can ill afford to neglect.  There are those who would say the maintenance of clothing is better left to others (stereotypically the women in our lives) or that we live in a disposable society and it’s cheaper to buy new than to spend the time and money making repairs.  Why then should a man who loves football, red meat, and beer care about understanding the alteration process?

1. You are accountable for your appearance. A man is always free to accept help, but in the end he is responsible for how he presents himself to the world.   To rely on your wife or female friends for alteration advice is foolhardy as the rules on fit are different for women.  Likewise, to rely on a “wise” friend is inviting disaster – is he basing his recommendations on a single article or experience?  Listen to others, but take their advice with a grain of salt; the only freedom a man truly has is to make his own decisions.
2. Alterations can save you money. Knowing what can be done, and what can’t, may end up saving you quite a bit of time and money.  Is the closet full of inherited suits that are too big in the shoulders worth the effort?  Is it worth grabbing that last Zegna blazer on sale that’s just a tad too tight in the torso?  What about the sports jacket that’s two inches too long? And not only can understanding alterations help you make wise purchases, such knowledge can extend the life of your clothing. A tailor can get you back into those pants that have become a bit too snug and save the jacket that’s developed a small tear. You can keep on wearing your best clothes for a fraction of the cost of buying a new wardrobe.
3. A needle and thread can save the day. It’s two hours before the wedding and your collar button is missing – what are your options?  Can your expensive wool jacket be saved after it is damaged by a cigarette or you find that moths have feasted upon it?

Alterations – The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

The Good. Anything in your wardrobe will look better on you when it actually fits.  Sleeve length, excess blousing around the torso, and too much/little room in the seat of the pants can all be adjusted to a certain degree.  It’s very likely that you can salvage many of the ill fitting garments in your wardrobe by simply having them altered to fit.

The Bad. The cost of making all the needed alterations to a garment may very well exceed what you paid for it due in part to the lack of skilled seamstresses and tailors out there.  Also, some parts of a garment can’t be fixed or adjusted past a certain point.  A jacket that’s two inches too short often cannot be lengthened because of either the lack of fabric and/or the structural build of the garment does not allow it.  Now there are always exceptions-I’ve worked with some amazing tailors who have worked miracles – but the average sewing professional is limited in their comfort zone.

The Ugly – No one is going to admit they are a bad threader; instead, you’ll learn the hard way through using their services.  They’ll make promises they can’t keep, miss deadlines trying to figure out how to tackle your problem, not answer your calls for a month, and the garment they just spent 4 weeks learning on (yours) will not be their greatest work.

The 3 Ingredients of a Successful Alteration

There are three things that make any clothing alteration successful: 1) the skill level of the person doing the work, 2) whether or not the garment has the fabric for the alteration, and finally 3) how the alteration will affect the garment’s proportions.

1.  A Skilled Tailor or Seamstress
Choosing a tailor can be tricky – the term is used loosely in the US and experience does not always equate to skill.  Oftentimes I meet someone who can do what I ask, but fails to point out what I asked for will ruin the look of the garment.  Other times I have been promised the world only to receive back a garment unfit to wear.  When you find a tailor that you like, one who understands your needs and does quality work…..build that relationship because it is worth more than gold.  Here are my 7 steps on how to select a tailor:

1. Educate yourself. Understand what you want, learn the basics so that you can ask thoughtful questions, and don’t be afraid to ask the detailed questions and raise objections when you think someone is blowing smoke.
2. Seek recommendations. Like I mentioned above, take the recommendations of friends and family with a grain of salt.  However, they are a great place to start and may alert you to information otherwise not available.
3. Test their communication skills. When you call for information, how are you treated and can they communicate well?  When you visit, do they make time to answer your questions even if they have to set up an appointment later (a busy tailor will often do this)?  Does he or she really understand what you are asking and do they make you feel comfortable?
4. Ask the tailor: “When are they satisfied?” A tailor should be satisfied only when the client is happy; if the client isn’t satisfied with the garment, the tailor should either work to meet expectations or make the client whole by refunding his money.  I’ve seen many men pushed into styles and fits they weren’t happy with; a tailor should offer guidance, but how a man looks is his decision alone.
5. Does the tailor or seamstress understand style? This isn’t a show-stopper, but without it you’ll have to be very explicit as to what you want and cannot assume the person working on the clothing can make the “leap” between points not specified.  A trained tailor should point out errors/problems with your requests if they break common style or pattern aesthetics.
6. Examine their handiwork. Look not only at the outside, but at the inside stitching and seam work.  Check out detailed pictures of men’s clothing stitch work as it should be done to know what you’re looking for.  Details! Details! Details!
7. Availability. You want a professional that is accessible; when you find out a week before your wedding you’re a little too large for your once well fitting suit, you want someone who can help you in a pinch.

2.  Does the Garment have enough Fabric?
If the fabric isn’t there, then there is little even a skilled tailor can do to help you.  Whether it involves extending a sleeve or opening up a pair of trousers after Thanksgiving, if there isn’t excess fabric then the hands of even the most creative tailor are effectively tied.  Make sure when you buy a garment and expect to have it enlarged, there is at least ¾ to 1/1/4 inches of excess fabric along the seams.  This is standard on most new clothing, but when buying from thrift stores or receiving something custom be very careful.  For my body building clients I normally give them as much extra fabric as I can without it “bulking up” the seams – this enables them to open up their jacket’s chest 3 inches without having to buy a new coat.

3.  The Limits of Proportion
Even if you have points 1 and 2 covered, you may still be limited in what you can do depending on proportion.  A gentleman south of five foot five will find although his tailor can shorten his jacket by 2 inches, he cannot reposition the pockets, thus creating a garment that looks comical.  The same for the thin gentleman – bringing in the trousers or jacket by more than two inches often moves the pockets to a point where the clothing just looks wrong.

Common Alterations and the Level of Skill They Require

Basic Skill Alterations – Cost is low – you could do it yourself with a little guidance from a friend who can sew or a reputable manual.

• Button & zipper replacement
• Trouser leg length
• Jacket sleeve length (non-working buttons & unlined)

Medium Skill Alterations – Cost is a little more expensive than the above, but always worth the price if this is what you need to make your garment fit.

• Jacket sleeve length (non-working buttons & lined)
• Fixing neck roll
• Bring in or opening up the torso on a jacket
• Bringing in or opening up a pair of trousers
• Taper trouser legs
• Shortening a shirt sleeve
• Replacing a shirt collar
• Adding darts
• Tapering the shirt

High Skill Alterations – Expensive – make sure your tailor is good and knows what they are doing.

• Jacket sleeve length (working buttons & lined)
• Jacket length
• Rotating the jacket sleeve (correcting for arm pitch)
• Relining the jacket
• Reducing shirt shoulders
• Re-weaving – fixes small holes by using fabric found elsewhere on the suit to create an invisible patch.  Limited to small holes though.

The magic of invisible weaving - thank you Jeeves of Belgravia for the image!

Expert Alterations – Very expensive, you may want to look at a new suit. Unless you live in a large city, you will have to ship your garment to a trained tailor.

• Anything adjusting the shoulders – this is very touchy as the tailor is changing the whole “look” of the garment.  It’s very possible that he’ll get it to fit better, but it may no longer look right.
• Changing the posture of a jacket – this involves adjusting the way the front and back of the jacket are connected, oftentimes needed if a man stands overly erect or slouched over.

Unfixable – Time to purchase a new suit or shirt.

• Long Fabric tears – not along the seam
• Holes larger than 1.5 inches in circumference
• Heavy abrasion damage
• Severe weakening of the fibers caused by alkaline or acid exposure
• Burned fabric – be careful with irons
• The outfits below:

From the Black Tie Guide’s Hall of Shame

Be Prepared

Emergency Sewing Kit

You or someone in your company is going to need a needle and thread at the worst time possible – be prepared.   Stores sell prepackaged kits, but I avoid these as they are bulky and overpriced – they often contain a pair of worthless scissors and more thread than you need.  Instead pack your own – a few needles of various sizes, two feet of both black and white thread, and a few buttons of various sizes.   Place this kit in a location you’ll remember (I pack them in a tiny ziplock and place one in each of my first aid kits (home & truck).  If you ever have your manhood questioned on this remember John J. Rambo carried a needle & thread in his survival knife and used it to stitch his severely wounded arm in First Blood – which enabled him to survive and then later defeat the Soviet Union.

Learn to Sew Yourself

Want to do alterations yourself?  Interested in learning how to make your own clothing?  Want a skill whose demand is only set to increase as the great tailors of yesteryear retire and few are set to fill their shoes?   For further reading, I highly recommend visiting the website and reading the books of Mr. David Coffin; he does an excellent job teaching the basics of sewing and advanced topics such as making your own shirts and trousers.  Also check out the crew over at Threadbanger.

Written by
Antonio Centeno
President, A Tailored Suit
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For centuries, when a man needed extra support and protection for his feet, he would lace up a good pair of boots. Your grandpa or great-grandpa probably had a solid pair of leather boots in his shoe collection. During the frontier days, a good leather boot was an essential piece of clothing. Industrial workers did and still do wear boots to protect their dew beaters. Returning soldiers would often continue to wear their military issued boots when they returned from war back to civilian life. Consequently, the leather boot was common among men.

After conquering the frontier and moving from the factory floor to a cubicle, men replaced the boot with sneakers and dress shoes as their go-to footwear. But just because you’re not out chopping wood doesn’t mean you can’t wear boots. A nice leather boot can class up your casual wardrobe and make you look ruggedly handsome. And because of their solid construction and timeless look, a quality leather boot can last a lifetime (and more) instead of the 1-2 years that you may get out of today’s mass produced nylon mesh shoes. In other words, a good boot is a good investment.

If you’ve been wanting to add a nice pair of boots to your wardrobe, you’re in luck. We’re giving away a free pair of the new Wolverine 1,000 Mile boots from Wolverine’s Heritage Collection. The Wolverine 1,000 Mile boot is based on the original design from 1914 and it’s uber-manly. Have I whet your appetite yet? Read on to find out how you can get your hands on a pair.

The Prize

The Wolverine 1,000 Mile Boot

Recognized for its long-standing dedication to comfort, durability, and style, Wolverine is debuting a one-of-a-kind collection of boots and shoes inspired by its own classic designs.

The cornerstone of the new collection, the 1,000 Mile Boot is crafted with the same attention to detail found in the original 1,000 Mile shoe that was first developed in 1914. Wolverine designers worked meticulously to replicate the original aesthetic of that first boot created so many years ago.  Made in America, the boot features soft, supple leathers in weathered tones, a
stacked leather midsole and outsole and classic welt construction. The Wolverine 1,000 Mile retails for $325 and you can purchase it online at Littles Shoes.

A pair of the 1,000 Mile Boot is up for grabs in this giveaway. Ready to get your hands on a pair? Then read on.

How to Enter

You have three ways to enter to win a pair of these manly boots.

1) Leave a comment on this post sharing where you would walk in your pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots.

2) Join the “A Good Boot” Group in the Art of Manliness Community. You’ll have to sign up for the AoM Community before you can  join the boot group.

3) Email your friends about the contest. For each friend you email, you’ll receive 1 entry. Email up to 10 friends. (We won’t share your email with anyone, and we can’t even see theirs)

Deadline to enter is Monday, September 28, 2009 at 11PM EST. We’ll then randomly select one lucky winner. Enter today!

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Editor’s note: This is a guest post from a fellow Tulsan and friend, Nathan Fifield.

Do you remember when you were a teen and your parents or teachers complained about your terrible breath and body odor?If you were like me, you didn’t care and you probably didn’t do anything about it. After all, you couldn’t smell it, and of course as a teenager you are not supposed to care about anything other people tell you.

Unfortunately, I know far too many grown men who still smell like reeking teens, and whether they know it or not, their odor problem is wreaking havoc on their personal relationships, their business prospects, and the respect people give them. Most of us are too polite to confront a man with an odor problem and some men live completely oblivious to the foul destruction they leave in their wake.We grow accustomed to our own scents and as putrid as they are, we cannot recognize them.Our nose filters out and ignores many background odors, such as the ones in our nasal passages.Some of us also have poor olfactory senses, so bad odors don’t bother us like they do others. Time to wake up and smell the B.O.!

Dealing with Bad Breath

The first step is to recognize the problem. Every man should be aware of the potential horrors of his own breath.You don’t want co-workers to cringe when you sit down next to them and women to turn their cheek when you go in for the smooch.

The best way to test your breath is to ask your spouse or a friend for their feedback. If no one is around, try scraping a bit of scum from the back of your tongue with your fingernail, placing it on the back of your hand, and then smelling it.

Bad breath typically occurs on an empty stomach, after eating certain foods like garlic, when suffering from sinus conditions, smoking, or for other more complicated reasons.To eliminate it, be sure to eat, drink plenty of water, and brush your teeth, tongue, and gums regularly. Using Listerine, hydrogen peroxide or other types of washes may also help. Always keep a steady supply of breath mints. For some cases, Tic-Tacs are just not enough.Try something stronger like Listerine Pocket Packs if you are a smoker or have a chronic breath problem.

If the above remedies don’t cure your bad breath, try a tongue scraper. Your tongue is like a carpet, and bacteria, food particles, and discharge from your sinuses get caught in the fibers, especially at the very back of the tongue, and turn into a bad breath breeding ground. A tongue scraper clears away these bad breath instigators; you’ll be amazed at the instant difference it can make.

If your bad breath persists no matter what you throw at it, pay a visit to your doctor.

It’s not because you’re old, Grandpa….it’s because you smell.

Dealing with B.O.

Everyone has a problem with body odor.The trick is to manage it correctly.This can be done by staying clean, using proper soaps, shampoos, deodorants, colognes, and washing your clothes regularly.You may think that the jeans you have worn every day for the last two weeks still smell fine, but anyone with a modicum of olfactory awareness, will tell you that you smell like the plague.Wear your jeans twice, at absolute most, three times, and wash them.

Using proper cleaning products is absolutely essential.When mismanaged, certain commercial fragrances create chemical warfare with your b/o.I once got up the courage to tell a friend of mine how horrible his b/o was. The next day, he went out and bought some kind of cheap, spray-on deodorant.The combination of the body odor and the crass deodorant was unbearable.I almost wished I hadn’t told him about his problem.

Avoid spray-on deodorants and body sprays like the overpowering Axe Body Spray. There’s no need to envelop yourself in a cloud of fragrance. Instead, find a subtle, mild, or no-fragrance deodorant or antiperspirant. Many of your typical grocery store deodorants, soaps, and aftershaves have cheap, tacky fragrances that hang on the wearer like an ugly overcoat.Use these products to get clean, and stay free of B.O. But don’t use them for their scents, unless you can find a quality product with a sophisticated scent that works well with your body’s natural odor. Also be aware of the scent of your laundry detergent. Many people find the cheap fragrances in detergent to be unbearable. It is safest to stick with non-scented detergent or a high quality detergent with a non-offensive, mild fragrance.

The only upside of B.O. is that it might attract the attention of a hot spy chick:

Finding a Proper Cologne

Scents, like the clothing we wear and the language we use, inadvertently communicate a lot about us. An overpowering scent can be seen as vain, tacky, or sexually desperate. Of course it is safest to wear no scent at all. However, an appropriate cologne can subtly enhance the image we project to the world.

There are two philosophies with regards to wearing fragrance. According to the first philosophy, people should wear a fragrance like they wear a piece of clothing. When people pass you, they might say, “Wow, that’s a really great scent you are wearing.” In the second approach, a person chooses a fragrance that will subtly enhance their own natural scent. Instead of saying “That’s a great cologne,” they might say “You smell nice today.” I personally prefer this second approach, and would strongly suggest that this is the best approach for daily use. On special occasions, you might find a strong, unique scent that draws attention to itself, but in general, you should find a subtle scent that mildly enhances your aura.

Finding the right scent for you will take some work. Because everyone’s natural smell is different, colognes will react differently to each individual. It is impossible to judge simply from smelling the bottle. You need to wear the scent and see how it reacts with your natural smell over time. Don’t be too eager to pick one out. Go to the department store, find a scent you like and spray a small amount on your arm. Notice how the scent works with your body throughout the day. Many men and women have made the mistake of purchasing a scent, only to abandon it after the first use, simply because they can’t stand the smell of it after a few hours. These are things you should try to find out before you make a purchase. Enlist the help of your spouse or girlfriend. They will appreciate the care you are taking to manage your hygiene, and females are typically far more sensitive to fragrance.

We’d like you to hear your stories.Finding the right scent can be a complicated and highly personal endeavor.What scents have you found that work for you?How do you manage bad breath? What are the best deodorants and colognes for men?

• 15 Manly Smells
• The Virtuous Life: Cleanliness
• 30 Days to a Better Man Day 30: Get a Straight Razor Shave
• How To Shave Like Your Grandpa
• Introducing The Art of Manliness Barbershop Locator

Editor’s note: This impassioned (and fun to read!) article on the virtues of mustache-manship comes from Abdul R. Chaballout. Enjoy.

For those of us who have forgotten life in the United States before the 1980’s, the sudden appearance of Brad Pitt and Yankees first baseman Jason Giambi, parading with freshly blossomed mustaches may seem random and unorthodox. Having spent the past year in the Middle East, where this particular expression of facial hair is very much a conventional display, I began to question whether we as Americans have forgotten an important element of human nature that many cultures globally have preserved. It was only after I embraced life with a mustache myself that I have come to transcend my initial prejudices on the matter.

I have found in this current age, men generally fall into two camps: those who tote and understand the mustache, and those who do not tote and do not understand the “hirsute appendage of the upper lip.” The latter community perceives the mustache to be an arcane ornament, a male accessory that is often displeasing to the common eye. This is a group that also believes in the clean-shaven status quo of modernity, subsequently casting the mustache into the dark abyss of the past. The former community, however, can naturally delineate the je ne sais quoi importance of the mustache, which has everything to do with manhood, and nothing to do with fashion. This is a group that fully apprehends the dying state of masculinity and seeks to rekindle the art of manliness through a reawakening of the mustache. At the core of this movement lays the belief that within every mustache lies ancient tradition, virtuous character, and resonant fellowship.

On Male Tradition

Every strand of hair found above a man’s lips serves as a tribute to the pantheon of mustache holders throughout history, an ode to the testosterone that has driven every strand of every male’s facial hair since the first man roamed Planet Earth. Historically speaking, the first record of man’s extravagant display of his mustache goes back to a painting of a Scythian horseman from 300 BC. Fast forward to the current age, where societies by and large have maintained their bond to the mustache, as evident in Egyptian society today, where a man’s honor is measured by the size of his mustache. Truth be told, an Egyptian clan elder was stripped of his honor in recent years when an unfortunate scuffle led to his kidnapping  and the subsequent humiliation of seeing his mustache shaved, packaged, and sent home.

It is only in recent times that the mustache has become a ubiquitous trademark of villains, pimps, and scalawags. One can easily find himself perplexed at how such a bona fide expression of man can so suddenly find itself disparaged. While it is difficult to pinpoint the exact source of this evolution, one must remember we live in a time where manhood itself has become a trivial matter. As such, it is up to the vigilant and the wise to bring the youth of today back to the straight path.

On Male Character

Prince Hussein Pacha of Egypt… and his mustache.

The outward display of any mustache ostensibly indicates the presence of attributes that have most effectively driven the survival of the male race: virility and masculinity. Biologically speaking, release of testosterone in the development of all males drives the development of secondary sex characteristics, physical features that eventually sustain the holy blessing of procreation. One can appropriately compare the mustache to the feathers of a male peacock. Those peacocks that can flaunt the most impressive feathers are most likely to produce robust offspring. Similarly, those men with the fullest and cleanest mustaches are most likely to share their lives with women of the highest caliber.

Upstanding character in males holds honor as its nucleus. Only with strong honor can other positive attributes such as integrity, loyalty, and sincerity surface to the exterior of any man. That said, many societies hinge the honor of their males on the mustaches on their face. In Syrian society today, men build trust by swearing by their mustache and even go as far as offering their mustache as ransom in the event their integrity is compromised. And old Arab proverb once professed “every mustache has its scissors,” an indication that behind every mustache is a respectable male deserving of the utmost respect.

On Male Fellowship

Unlike women, who bond primarily through face to face discussions, males bond best through shared activities, namely through those performed side by side. Two men embarking on the road to friendship do so with a mutual appreciation of one another’s machismo. Such activities include logging, hunting, war, etc. At a more primordial stage however, the process begins with the most fundamental element of human bonding: similarity. When two men meet, bonding prospects are significantly enhanced when both tote a well groomed mustache. The reason for this goes back to the ancestral nature of this patch of hair, as it integrates both tradition and character, which provides an invariably solid foundation any two men can find relevant.

The proverbial mustache is not only a male prerogative, but a bastion of the male presence. Pushing for its elimination from the zeitgeist of any era carries no meaning but a denial of the source of manhood itself. Toting the mustache with the right intentions is a God-given right that even the English recognized when they declared: “a man without a mustache is like a cup of tea without sugar.”

• 20 Manliest Mustaches and Beards From Facial Hair History
• The 35 Manliest Mustaches of All Time
• The Art of Manliness Movember Contest 2009
• The Art of Manliness Weekly Roundup: Barber Shop Edition
• Rediscovering the Barbershop

Image from Joe Leland

Unfortunately, many men today are missing out on the benefits of having a regular barber. As the barbershop tradition has faded, modern men just end up going to the closest unisex salon to get their hair cut. And each time they get they go, they end up with a different stylist and are forced to explain over and over again how they’d like it done. But “a little off the sides” means one thing to one stylist and another thing to another stylist. Stylists also have the tendency (in my experience) to try to correct what they see as mistakes that a previous barber/stylist made. Consequently, a man who goes to a unisex chain salon walks out with a completely different haircut at each visit. Not a good thing if you’re trying to maintain a consistent image.

Every man needs a reliable, skilled barber in his life. Having a regular barber will ensure that you get a consistent, sharp haircut with every visit. You can go in for a trim before a big interview without gambling on whether or not you’ll come out looking like you were attacked by a weed whacker.

Good barbers have a memory like an elephant. As you visit a first rate barber regularly, he’ll become familiar with the many contours of your head and the complexities of your hair and will know how to cut and style your hair just the way you like it. You’ll be able to walk in and simply ask for “the usual.” Plus, your barber can become a good friend, someone you can be comfortable shooting the breeze with and look forward to seeing every few weeks.

But how does a man go about forging this important relationship and finding a good barber? How do you know when a barber is a keeper? To help steer you in the right direction, I called up The Gent’s Place in Frisco, TX and talked to Ben Davis, the owner, and his master barber with 20+ years experience, Von Jackson.

Before You Enter the Shop

Ask around. If you’re new in town or aren’t happy with your current barber situation, the first thing you should do is ask people you know for recommendations. Especially seek out recommendations from men who always seem to have awesome haircuts. Chances are they have a great barber that they’d be more than happy to recommend to you.

Search online. After asking people you know for barber recommendations, check out what the hive mind of the web has to say. In order to find more masculine establishments as opposed to foo-fooey unisex places, Ben and Von suggested that you run Google searches with keywords like “men’s grooming in x-city” or “barbershops in x-town.” Also, check out barbershop reviews on sites like citysearch.com and yelp.com. Finally, be sure to take a gander at the AoM’s world famous barbershop locator. Hundreds of shops have been added to it and the database grows daily.

When You’re at the Shop

Look for confidence. This is a man you’re going to be trusting your noggin to, so you want a barber who’s supremely confident in his abilities to sculpt your hair into a masterpiece. Confident barbers will look you in the eye, smile, and give you a firm manly handshake when you first walk in. If a barber you visit for the first time avoids eye contact and gives you the limp fish, it could be a warning sign that he’s not that confident in his abilities.

You also want a barber who can confidently tell you what would work best for you depending on your requests and your face shape and structure. Barbers without much experience or confidence in their craft will do exactly what the client says, even if what the client asks for will look like crap. A good barber will have the stones to speak up and offer suggestions to the client to help guide them to something more suited for their face. Of course, if the client insists on his crappy cut, a good barber will do exactly what the client asks.

Check how well groomed the barber is. Give a new barber the once over. How is his personal grooming? Chances are if the barber has a crummy haircut and shave, he gives crummy haircuts and shaves. How is his clothing? Pressed and clean? This kind of attention to detail will likely carry over into the haircuts he gives. A great barber takes his personal appearance seriously because he’s in the business of helping men with their personal and professional image.

Take note of the shop’s cleanliness. If just looking in a certain shop makes your head itch, turn and walk the other way. Of course, most city health regulations have eliminated the “lice shops” that were once common in the 19th and early 20th centuries, but sometimes shops get lost in the bureaucracy, so it’s better to be safe than sorry.

In addition to the checking how sanitary the place is, just look for overall organization and order. Again, a barber with an eye for detail will make sure his shop and working area are in tiptop shape. If you notice that a barber has tools all over the place and mounds of hair under the chair, that kind of sloppiness may end up reflected in your hair cut.

Does the barber ask the right questions? When you sit down in the barber chair and the barber puts the hair drape around your neck, listen to see if the barber asks the right questions. Davis says if the first question the barber asks you is, “What number do you want on the sides?” run out of the shop immediately. Barbers who rely solely on clipper guards to cut hair tend to be lazy and unskilled. Besides, haircuts done with just clippers tend to be mediocre. I mean, come on. You can give yourself a haircut if you know what number guard to put on the clippers. Why pay a man $10 to do something you could do yourself?

Jackson says a good barber will ask you questions like, “What do you like about your hair?” “What don’t you like?” “Do you want to change your style?”

Does the barber ask for feedback during the cut? During the haircut, a good barber will stop and ask you for feedback. They’ll let you look in a mirror and ask if your hair is still too long or if your hairline’s shape on the back of your neck is to your suiting. By asking for constant feedback during the haircut, a good barber can preempt any haircut disasters. Bad barbers, of course, won’t ask you for feedback until they swivel you around in the chair to look in the mirror. By then it’s too late. You’re destined to walk the streets looking like a doofus until your next haircut.

Conduct an interview. When you visit a new barber, he’s applying for a new position as the go-to man for all your grooming needs. As with hiring any new employee, make sure to conduct a solid interview in order to get a feel for whether he’s the right man for the job. Davis suggested that your questions focus on two areas: the barber’s experience and the barber’s personality.

To get an idea of the barber’s experience, ask him how long he’s been cutting hair and where he’s barbered. If he’s a relative noob, tread carefully. Unless you’re willing to be this man’s practice head, find a barber with more experience. Also, Davis suggested that you ask the barber how busy he is. Great barbers have lots of clients. If he tells you he’s on his feet from open until close and that you need an appointment to see him, you’ve probably found yourself a quality barber. If he says that he spends most of his time playing checkers with the local crazy person and that you can walk in anytime, well, there’s probably a reason for that.

After you get an idea about his experience and how in demand he is, ask some questions to get a feel for his personality. After all, you’ll possibly be spending 30 minutes with this person at least once a month, maybe more if you go in every two weeks. Part of the appeal of the barbershop tradition is the camaraderie men enjoy there. If your personality clashes with the barber’s, it can suck all the joy out of getting a haircut.

Davis also recommend taking mental notes on any clues about the barber’s personal life. Barbers and hair stylists are notorious for having a lot of drama in their lives. If they say stuff about switching shops because they didn’t get along with the owner or they’re having lots of family problems, this is a warning sign that you won’t be able to count on them. Barbers with lots of drama in their lives have a tendency to cancel or show up late for appointments. Eventually, they end up leaving and have to go to another shop. Even if the barber cuts hair like a genius, it might be more trouble than it’s worth to fit your schedule around a barber’s personal turmoil. Go with someone more reliable.

Start out slow. Of course once you’ve gone in and talked to a barber, even if you’re feeling like he’s not the right guy for the job, it’s hard just to get up and walk out. And even if you’re thinking that a new barber fits the bill, you won’t know for sure until he cuts your hair. The best way to figure out how skilled the barber is without risking a dopey hair cut is to simply ask that he clean up your hair line around your ear and your neck. It’s hard too screw up and even if he does, it’s not too noticeable. Just from the 10 to 15 minutes you’re with him and the quality of the trim, you should be able to get a good idea if the barber is a keeper or not.

Any other tips on picking a good barber? Share them with us in the comments.

Big thanks to Ben Davis and Von Jackson at The Gents Place for allowing me to interview them and for their great tips. If you’re in the Dallas area, be sure to stop by The Gent’s Place barbershop for a guaranteed good haircut.

• The Art of Manliness Weekly Roundup: Barber Shop Edition
• Rediscovering the Barbershop
• 30 Days to a Better Man Day 30: Get a Straight Razor Shave
• Introducing The Art of Manliness Barbershop Locator
• The Mad Men Guide to a Manly Haircut

Source: Life

“It was in these years that I went over to the bow tie. Many men I admired wore bow ties — Franklin Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, Humphrey Bogart, Groucho Marx. Bow ties are not only neat and suggestive of insouciance, they have in addition one inestimable advantage, especially for sloppy eaters. It is impossible, or at least it requires extreme agility, to spill anything on a bow tie.”   -Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr. on the decision he made in college to start wearing bow ties.

Although the bow tie’s shape and general characteristics have remained the same for almost 150 years, its place in society has moved from one of equal footing with its cousin the necktie to one of being a rarity.  To find a man who enjoys wearing a bow tie daily is difficult, perhaps because so many view the bow tie as more “amusing” or belonging to the realm of eccentrics than in a professional’s wardrobe.  And that’s unfortunate; from a practical point of view, it’s less likely to get in your way, flatters a wide variety of faces, has a strong history, and technically, is just as correct as a standard necktie.

If you have the courage to wear a bow tie, you’ll find it’s a small accessory that receives a lot of attention.  Women will smile at you, young men will tell you how it reminds them of a favorite relative, and older gentlemen will compliment you for bringing back something great that was lost.  The naysayers may be thinking, “Oh, but they’re really just laughing at you,” but I beg to differ.  A man who can pull off a bow tie is confident in his own skin and that is something any great person can appreciate.

So without further adieu, here is a bit of history on the bow tie, the background on a great American company that makes them, and finally directions on how with you can win one.

Bow Tie History

“A list of bow tie devotees reads like a Who’s Who of rugged individualists.” -The New York Times

The bow tie has a pedigree reaching back into the early 18th century when Croatian soldiers served as mercenaries in the French army’s light cavalry during the Thirty-Year’s War against the German Empire.  Traditional Croatian military dress included scarves worn around the neck in a distinctive manner. This handsome “Croatian Style” captivated the French and during the reign of Louis XIV, they adapted it and wore a piece of fabric around their shirt collars in the fashion then known as “a la Croate.”  This expression soon became the root of the new French term “cravate”.

The cravat flourished, and it soon became the sign of cultivation and elegance among the bourgeoisie. The cravat tie eventually inspired the the bow and four-in-hand neckties.  In the mid 19th century, the bow tie evolved from being a simple swath of material – often of lace and known as the jabot –  which was tied into any kind of bow, into something much closer to what we are familiar with today.  A specific bow tie pattern was designed, and when fabrics were cut using that pattern, the resulting bow was of a definitive form and soon became synonymous with formal attire.  It was particularly popular with the newly introduced tuxedo jacket – an alternative to the tailcoats that required white ties.  And although the bow tie began to lose its place as popular business attire, one fan has noted that the “bowtie has survived as a statement that a man takes pride in his dress.” Perhaps the most famous bow tie of the mid 20th century was Winston Churchill’s classic navy silk with white polka dots. During WWII, Churchill and FDR formed a bow tie alliance in opposition to Hitler’s penchant for the four-in-hand.  A few years later some of the icons of show business  – including Frank Sinatra – wore bow ties and lots of men followed suit.

On the Left - Beau Ties LTD's founders Bill and Deb On the Right - Sir Winston Churchill, one of history's most iconic bow tie wearers.

American Success Story – Bow Ties Made in Vermont

Fashion trends changed dramatically in the latter half of the century, and bow ties became as scarce as topcoats and fedoras in  popular fashion.  As a result, it became quite difficult for men who enjoyed wearing bow ties to find them in any fabric other than formal black.  Seeing this void when he looked for a bow tie himself, Bill Kenerson made a decision that impacted his life and opened the world of bow ties to thousands of other men.  A long-time bow tie fan, Bill was approaching retirement age when he determined it was time for someone to start making and selling bow ties that were not only top quality, but came in a variety of designs – well beyond the basic black.  And with that, Beau Ties Ltd. of Vermont was born.

Beau Ties started in a spare bedroom of Bill’s house in Middlebury, Vermont.  Bill and his wife, Deb, made forays into the garment district in New York and started buying silks that would make great ties.  A neighbor and friend, who also happened to be a seamstress of some renown, started turning those fabrics into ties. A local graphic artist designed a one-page flier featuring eight fabric options, and a retired public relations maven developed the first promotional copy.  A mailing list of about 5000 names – cobbled together from various sources – formed the nucleus of what has become a list of over 100,000, and that flier winged its way to the first people to place orders for Vermont-made bow ties.  Fifteen years later, Beau Ties Ltd. of Vermont is one of the USA’s premiere manufacturer of bow ties. Today the company inhabits a factory and sales office specifically designed for the business where each tie is individually handcrafted and inspected in Vermont and guaranteed to meet the expectations of customers all around the world.

Bow Tie Giveaway

Do you want to win the 100% silk, handcrafted bow tie of your choice? Entering this contest is as easy as pie. Just follow these two simple steps:

1. Visit the Beau Ties Ltd. of Vermont web site and pick out the bow tie you would like if you’re lucky enough to be selected as the winner.

2. Share your selection with us in the comments section of this post.

Everyone who enters the contest will be emailed a coupon code for a 20% discount at Beau Ties Ltd. of Vermont at the conclusion of the contest.

A winner will be drawn randomly from the entries. The deadline for entry into the contest is Monday, August 17 at 10PM CST.

• Mountain and Sackett Tie Giveaway: November 2009
• Art of Manliness Weekly Round-Up: 30 Days to a Better Man Ebook Edition
• Announcing the Winner of the Mountain and Sackett Authentic Regimental Tie Giveaway
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• Keep Your Ties In Tip Top Shape

Hot weather, unlike cooler temperatures, necessitates that we do more with less.  Beautiful weather creates a more relaxed attitude that translates into flexible dress codes that lean towards comfort and summer weather utility.  However, no coats, only occasionally a jacket, and more often than not shorts instead of trousers, forces us to reveal our sometimes less than attractive legs, stomachs, and backsides.  How does a modern day gentleman dress for the hot summer weather while still looking presentable?

This article is broken into two parts – in part one, we cover general guidelines to hot weather dressing, the different styles of shirts, and warm weather jackets. In part two, we’ll discuss shorts, jeans, summer trousers, footwear, and accessories.

Although the thermometer may read 100 degrees, those meeting you for the first time are still going to make a snap decision based off your appearance.  The goal of these articles is to make sure that the impression you leave is the one you want, not one that brings into question your decision making ability or respect for others.

Hot Weather Dressing General Guidelines – Clean, Light, and Understated

These three words sum up how a sharp dressed man clothes himself during the summer months.

Clean – A gentleman is showered, well-groomed, and his clothing is free from stains.  He realizes that although he may perspire, he does not have to smell nor look like he stepped out of a sauna.  If you need to shower twice a day, then do so.  Use antiperspirant deodorant, and consider soaps with menthol that will help cool your body.  A sharp dressed man never wears stained clothing, even if he believes others won’t notice.  His hair is washed and its ends cut regularly, with excess hair on the back of the neck trimmed.  Invest in a pair of nose hair clippers (which can be used on the ears as well), opt for a close shave, and treat your skin to lotions that improve health and appearance.  Need more guidance here?  Visit Tyler Sims at ForeMan; his website’s grooming guide is full of great info that answers dozens of questions.

Light – Wear light colored clothing and select fabrics made with breathable weaves and natural fibers such as cotton, linen, or tropical weight wool (perfect for summer’s formal events).  Looser fits facilitate airflow, but do not take this to mean you should wear a full size (or three) larger than what your body size calls for. Remember that dark colors do not reflect light but rather absorb it and all other factors being constant, are thus hotter.  On a sunny day, a white long sleeve button-down cotton shirt will be much cooler than a black polyester T-shirt.

Understated – A gentleman wears quality garments that have cuts and patterns that compliment his figure and attitude – his clothing never detracts from the ladies in his company.  He pays attention to unstated dress codes, plans accordingly, and shows up in accordance so that he can enjoy the companionship of those around him. If you need to bring a change of clothing, do so; try not to wear your swimming trunks into the evening festivities (unless they are in the water!).  Be remembered for your friendly conversation, not for being the over-dressed peacock or under-dressed ruffian.

Summer Shirt Styles

The T-shirt

The T-shirt is as casual as it gets.  With its underwear origins (and for many still its only domain) the T-shirt is in this author’s opinion appropriate for working out, beach wear, and situations where a close fitting garment that is unlikely to get tangled is called for.  However in the US, a quality designer T-shirt is accepted as casual summer wear; you won’t get a second look if you choose to wear one to class, to the local café, or out to a bar with friends.

When wearing a T-shirt, ensure the fabric is 100% cotton and that it is not so thin as to be see-through.  Pay attention to proper fit in the torso area – too loose of a shirt only makes you look smaller than you are while too tight of a shirt makes you look like an overstuffed sausage.

The advice 90% of you will ignore:

Think twice about wearing a T-shirt if you can just as easily wear a Polo, short sleeve, or long sleeve button-up.  Yes, I know everyone else wears them, but in most situations a short sleeve collared shirt is simply a better choice because of its versatility.  Even a $150 designer T-shirt is outclassed by a $25 polo because the latter has a collar.  Summer picnics, informal garage graduation parties, and Sunday morning brunch at Stubb’s Bar-B-Q can all be attended in style with a short sleeve button dress shirt.

The Short Sleeve Polo

As its name suggests, the polo shirt has it’s origins on the fields of sport where its moisture wicking properties and style made it the choice of gentleman athletes.  Today it has ascended as the standard uniform of the North American man dressed in summer casual.  However, just because it’s widely accepted does not mean its use should be abused.  Reserve the polo for true casual events on weekends. Unless it’s your company’s uniform, consider wearing a tasteful button down short sleeve during the week.

When it comes to colors and patterns, polo shirts are afforded more freedom in their range of acceptable hues and contrast.  They are one of the few exceptions where a man can wear bright & bold colors and not be accused of trying to draw attention to himself (well, within reason).  Fabrics types are either a smooth weave or a more casual rough weave with visible texture; you want to choose polos made from cotton, although up to 15% of other fibers types is acceptable as they may be used to enhance performance, fit, and comfort.

The Button-Down Short Sleeve

The most under utilized shirt in a man’s wardrobe is the button-down short sleeve shirt.  A step up from the polo, this shirt style is often avoided because of the difficulty in achieving a “great look.” A button down short sleeve that’s too large or too small has its weaknesses amplified by its inability to hide behind another garment or even itself.  Thin arms dwarfed by large armholes and midsections that press the limits of a button’s strength have no long sleeves or jacket to cover their ungainly appearance.  Thus, it’s imperative to pay attention to fit. Try taking these shirts to a tailor; you’d be amazed at how much a slight alteration can improve appearances.

A short sleeve dress shirt needs to fit properly at the shoulder points and along the torso.  Sleeve lengths can vary but they should cover at least 25 to 80 percent of the bicep (as measured from shoulder point to elbow).  Understand the less bicep covered the more casual the shirt becomes. I personally like my shirts to cover at least 60% of my bicep unless headed to the beach or lake.  But then again I don’t have the build to pull off the short bicep look.  As for circumference of the sleeve, at least 1 inch but not more than 4 or so; again, a skilled tailor can help here, but your best bet is to find a brand whose factory fit is close to your body build.

My favorite detail of the short sleeve dress shirt is the wearer’s ability to have it incorporate classic military style features such as double breast pockets, small bicep pouches, epaulets (shoulder straps) and the freedom its casual nature affords when it comes to fabric selection.   Checks that would normally overpower a long sleeve dress shirt or look ridiculous on a polo shirt somehow are tempered by the compromising features found in the short sleeve dress shirt.

The Long Sleeve Dress Shirt

Although not most men’s first choice in 90 degree plus weather, it is a more formal option than its short sleeve cousin and often the only choice for work.  If wearing the long sleeve dress shirt during the day, select a light color, and to avoid being swallowed up by the sea of simple white’s, consider a lightly patterned fabric that tastefully suggests individuality.  Most men know to select cotton, but few realize the fabric make-up is only a part of the equation for staying cool.  Search for weaves and weights that allow cotton to do what you want it to do – transmit the moisture and heat from your body right out to your surrounding environment.  A long sleeve shirt rolled up to the mid-forearm or beyond, is a very stylish look preferred by many over the short sleeve button-up.   It’s actually dressier than a true short sleeve because it gives the wearer the option of unrolling the sleeves (even though he won’t be).  For more on long sleeve dress shirts, check out this Art of Manliness article on the dress shirt or look at the stylish duo at Street Etiquette (these gentlemen add a modern New York flair to classic style).

The Role of an Undershirt

For both the short sleeve and long sleeve button up shirts, always wear a 100% cotton undershirt (V neck preferred).  Although wearing two layers of clothing sounds warmer than wearing a single layer, a cotton undershirt protects the outer layer from sweat and fabric staining antiperspirants.  If you sweat heavily, consider bringing an extra shirt to change into.  For more info, visit Tug over at undershirtguy.com – he’s the internet’s expert on undershirts!

Wearing a Shirt Un-tucked

There are those who say a shirt should always be tucked in; I won’t go that far as I have seen (and made) shirts that look very stylish worn un-tucked.  The key is making sure the length of the shirt and height of jeans/shorts overlap by the right amount.  Aim for a 2 to 4 inch overlap depending on your size and the type of shirt; give T-shirts less overlap while button down short sleeves can have more (especially if it has a tail).  A general rule of thumb is if you are covering more than 50% of your backside the shirt is too long – the good news here is that shortening a shirt is fairly simple.  Finally note that the un-tucked style looks best on the younger man, especially when he is wearing jeans. Although you may think you are the exception (don’t we all), past middle age,d the un-tucked shirt begins to look unkempt.

The Summer Jacket

Weddings, outdoor parties, and other events that call for a professional presentation in hot weather make the summer jacket a necessity.  So what’s the difference between a summer jacket and a regular blazer or sports coat?

Summer Jacket Fabrics

Cotton is king during the summer months; its natural wicking properties along with its strength and durability make it the choice for those looking to stay cool and get years of wear.  However, because of their tendency to wrinkle, they do require frequent attention and are considered less casual – because of this I recommend a man have at least two well fitting suits in his wardrobe before purchasing a cotton jacket. Tropical weight wools are a hot weather alternative, but even though lightweight, they are still a bit warmer than cotton and require care when cleaning. On the other hand, the drape and feel of wool is unmatched, and if the jacket is half-lined and conservative in color, it may be the most versatile garment in your closet.

Seersucker – often seen in the American southeast, this fabric’s origins are Indian.  Picked up by the English, it made its way to the US where it has transformed itself into a modern classic.  Most commonly made from cotton with a striped pattern (blue, brown, gray, although other colors and patterns can be sourced), seersucker’s strength lies in its slack tension weave where two warp beams enable a tight weave one direction while a loose on the other.  The result is an incredibly breathable fabric that allows air to move through with ease.

Linen – like cotton, this is a fabric made from a plant based fiber (flax) and has the perfect summer characteristics of wicking away moisture and dissipating heat.  However, linen fabrics are often rougher and easily wrinkle, making them the least casual of summer fabrics despite their high price (this is a result more of so few producers and low demand compared with cotton). Despite the cost, a well informed gentleman realizes linen fabric is the most durable of fabrics, and a classic linen sports coat can last a lifetime if taken care of.

Unlined and Half-Lined Jackets – Adjusting the inner construction of a jacket is another method of reducing its propensity to retain heat.  Completely unlined jackets are perfect for warm weather as that they dispense with entire layers of fabric.  However, these unlined and thus unstructured jackets are by definition less formal than their more rigid brethren and look best matched with casual cotton garments supported by classic accessories.  Half-lined jackets are where all but the essential lining is dispensed with; these jackets still retain their structure (linings & shoulder pads) but eliminate lining on the lower half of the jacket.  Both half and unlined jackets require skilled seam work on the part of the garment maker, as there is no lining to hide unsightly edging.  When choosing half-lined jackets ensure the lining is made with a viscous Bemberg material vs. silk.  Developed over 70 years ago, Bemberg is a natural man-made fiber that comes from wood pulp; it does a better job than silk of wicking moisture from the body and is more durable.

In part two we’ll talk about shorts, jeans, summer trousers, footwear, and accessories.  Stay tuned!

Written by
Antonio Centeno
President, www.ATailoredSuit.com
Quality Custom Clothing & Sound Style Advice
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One thing I’ve noticed about men today is that they carry around too much crap in their pockets. If you need proof, take a look at these pics detailing the contents of AoM readers’ pockets. While I understand the desire to have the essentials on you at any time, stuffing our pockets until the seams are bursting probably isn’t a good idea. For starters, it just looks bad. Second, it’s bad for your clothing. The more stuff you cram in your pockets, the more wear and tear you put on your pocket seams. You can ruin a good pair of pants by doing this. Third, it can be uncomfortable. I hate that feeling when my pockets are weighed down with too much crap.

But what’s the modern man to do when he needs to carry his essential items? Enter the briefcase. If your grandfather was a corporate warrior, he probably lugged around a briefcase. While the briefcase went out of style along with gray flannel suits and hats, we at the Art of Manliness feel its high time for a briefcase renaissance. The reason the briefcase doesn’t currently enjoy more popularity is that too many men associate it with some boxy, chintzy, metal latched, 1980’s version of it. Who would want to carry around something like that? You need a briefcase as manly as you are.  A briefcase that will put so much hair on your chest that it doesn’t matter how high you’ve got that dress shirt buttoned, those tuffs are still going to show. You need a briefcase from the Saddleback Leather Company. And lucky for you, they’re giving one away to a very lucky AoM reader. To find out how you can get your hands on one, continue reading.

What a Man Should Carry in His Briefcase

So a briefcase can save our pockets from potential ruin. But in addition to your cell phone and maybe your wallet, what other essential items should a man carry in his briefcase? Below we compiled a quick list of items every man needs in his briefcase:

A Good Book

You never know when you’ll have some down time. Instead of wasting it away watching the TV in a lobby or staring at people in the subway, crack open a good book. By reading during your free time, you can easily polish off a few books a month. Your brain and soul will thank you. For suggestions on which books you should carry with you, check out our 100 Must Read Books for Men, 50 Fiction Adventure Books, and 50 Non-fiction Adventure Books.

Umbrella

The weather can go from sunny skies to dark and cloudy in a matter of minutes. Don’t be caught out in the rain without an umbrella. Even if you’re not a big umbrella guy, at least have one with you so you can cover the head of an unprepared lady. It’s the gentlemanly thing to do.

Extra Cash

It’s always a good idea to carry some extra cash with you. It’s good for paying for emergency roadside assistance, buying a hot dog from a street vendor, or greasing the palms of a helpful bell hop.

Notebook

Been wanting to start a journal, but just can’t find the time? Or maybe you get million dollar ideas, but forget them because you don’t write them down. By keeping a durable notebook in your briefcase, you can solve both of these problems. Whenever you have a spare moment, bust out your notebook and make a quick journal entry. Or if you read or hear a memorable quote or get a killer idea for your business, write it in there, too. I also like to have my notebook handy so I can go back and read through it whenever I have a moment.

Simple Stationery

Having a set of classy, yet simple stationery in your briefcase can do wonders for your career. After a job interview, whip out a card, write a handwritten thank you note, and drop it off with the secretary. If a fellow co-worker receives an award, write a short congratulatory note. While it’s a small gesture, it can reap huge rewards professionally.

Calling Cards

A calling card can come in handy in any social situation in which you want to exchange your personal information with someone. It’s an essential networking tool. Meet a potential lead for a new job? Give them your calling card. Talk to a lady that meets your fancy? Boom! Calling card for her. Not only is the calling card an effective tool to share your email or Twitter address, they’ll set you apart from the millions of men who are still using plain old business cards.

Mixed Nuts

A man’s got to eat, so be prepared for when hunger strikes. Mixed nuts are the perfect man snack. They’ve got fiber to fill you up, are filled with protein, and have lots of good fats to help increase your testosterone.

Newspaper

We hear a lot about the death of the newspaper industry, how the web is the way of the future, and that we’ll be getting our news on our cell phones and other do0-hickies. But I still think good old fashioned newspapers beat digital news. First, it’s more durable. Spill water on your Blackberry, news source is gone. Spill water on newspaper, you can still read it, it will just be wet. And a newspaper never needs to be charged. Second, it’s easier to read. I don’t know what it is, but I have a hard time reading large amounts of text on a computer screen. If that screen is on a mobile phone, fah-get about it! I’m not reading. Third, you can mark it up. You can’t take a pencil to a computer screen to do a crossword puzzle. Finally, I just like how newspapers and magazines feel. What can I say? I’m a tactile guy.

Altoids Survival Kit

A manly man is a prepared man. Be prepared by stocking your briefcase with this handy survival kit you can store in an Altoids can. Field and Stream gives you a step by step guide on how to cram all your survival needs into a single Altoids can. I’m not sure when you’d need a Commando Wire Saw during a commute to the office, but I guess you never know.

USB Keychain with Your Resume on It

Imagine this scenario: You show up to a job interview. You’re dressed to kill and have your confident handshake down pat. You look into your manly Saddleback briefcase to pull out the resumes you printed off this morning and…. NO! You took your kid’s homework instead! A simple tactic you can use to avoid a situation like this is to carry a USB drive with your resume it on it. If you ever forget yours, you can always plug your USB into a computer and print a new one off.

The Prize

So we know what we need to carry in a briefcase. Now we just need to get our hands on one. The Saddleback Leather Company is giving away the uber manly dark coffee brown large leather briefcase. Just looking at this fine piece of leathermanship makes you feel more manly. Saddleback’s briefcases are the creme de la creme. When you die, your grandchildren will fight over who gets it. The large briefcase retails for $535.

How to Enter

1. Leave a comment under this post sharing what you think are the essential items in a man’s briefcase.
2. Join the Art of Manliness Community’s Man Bag Group. In order to join the group, you have to be a member of the AoM Community.
3. Share this post with your friends using the “Email Story to a Friend” button in our “Share” Box at the bottom of the post. For each friend you email this post to, you’ll receive one entry in the contest. This means the more friends you share it with, the more entries you get. You can only send 10 at a time, but feel free to come back and esend some more.

Deadline to enter is Thursday, July 30 at 11PM EST. Enter early and often.

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There’s nothing like a good clean shave to start your day off right. A well-shaved face leaves a good impression with potential clients and lady friends. Unfortunately, legions of men are walking around right now with a nasty side effect of improper shaving: razor burn. We’ve all had it at one time or another- that horrible itchy feeling that pops up a few hours after you shave. Razor burn not only ruins a good shave, it just looks bad. But with the proper attack plan, razor burn and razor bumps can be prevented. Here’s yours:

What is Razor Burn?

Razor Burn: It Ain’t Pretty

Razor burn is an irritating rash that sometimes appears after shaving. In its most mild form, razor burn will be slightly itchy and create a noticeable red rash on your face and neck. In severe cases, razor burn can also produce “razor bumps.” Razor bumps are created by ingrown hairs. They look like pimples and they can itch like a mother. Ingrown hairs, and consequently razor bumps, are particularly problematic for African-American men because of their curlier beards.

Razor Bumps

How to Prevent Razor Burn

Soften the beard. A nice soft beard can be removed far more easily than one that feels like a brillo pad. Thus, the best time to shave is after you take a shower. The hot steam will soften up your beard, leaving it in primo condition for shaving. If you want to get your beard really soft, take some hair conditioner and rub it on your beard while you’re  in the shower. Leave it on for the duration of the shower and rinse when you’ve finished bathing. Your beard will be as soft as a baby’s bottom.

Exfoliate. Exfoliating isn’t just for your girlfriend. Use a facial scrub or your wife’s poofy loofa thingy to remove dead skin cells and bring potential ingrown hairs out of hiding. I don’t know if it’s manly, but I’m a fan of St. Ive’s Apricot Scrub. It’s inexpensive and really makes your skin feel nice.

Use a badger brush. When you lather up your beard, use an old school badger brush. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves.

Use a safety razor. Some people swear by the five blade razors that are out on the market today. If you can get a good clean shave with those, then keep using them. But if you feel like every shave leaves you with irritation and razor burn, consider shaving with a safety razor. For many men, the multiple blades of today’s modern razors irritate the skin more than needed. It’s overkill. Shaving with a safety razor will eliminate skin irritation and give your face a clean, healthy look because you’re just using one blade instead of several that chew up your face while cutting your whiskers.

Shave with the grain. In an attempt to get that smooth as a baby’s behind touch, many men shave against the grain. While shaving against the grain can get you that smooth feel in one deft swoop, you risk slicing up your face and causing razor burn. Also, shaving too close increases the chances for ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Shave with the grain instead. This will reduce the chances of irritation and razor burn.  You won’t be able to remove your beard in one pass when shaving with the grain. That’s okay. Just lather up and make another pass with the razor. Making several passes with the grain is much better than making one pass against the grain.

Use light, short strokes. Applying too much pressure with the razor increases your chances for razor burn. The weight of the razor is sufficient to cut your beard. To keep yourself from applying too much pressure, use short strokes. With longer strokes, we tend to apply more pressure on the razor.

Use a sharp razor. Have you ever tried cutting a tomato with a dull knife blade (or watched an infomerical where they did)? Notice how instead of cutting, you end up tearing the tomato? Well, imagine the tomato being your face. Instead of cutting your whiskers cleanly, a dull blade creates a lot of drag and tears at your whiskers. This increases your chances of creating ingrown hairs and skin irritation. One of the benefits of using a safety razor is that you can change blades frequently and it won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Each blade is about $.25.

Clean the blade with alcohol. One of the main causes of razor burn and skin irritation from shaving is bacteria on your blade. Kill the bastards by wiping down your razor blade with some rubbing alcohol before you start shaving. Some companies sell fancy blade antiseptic for big bucks, but it’s just run of the mill alcohol plus some fragrance. Drugstore rubbing alcohol is all you need.

Clean the blade after every stroke. Every time you make a pass on your face, your blade is collecting whiskers and shaving cream. This goop gets in the way of the blade making a clean cut. Rinse your blade after each pass. But don’t pull a Gilded Yak and leave your shave scum in the sink. Unless of course, you’re married to Ren or Stimpy.

Rinse your face with cold water when done. The cold water helps close up your pores and reduces the probability of pesky whiskers forming ingrown hairs.

Apply a balm or moisturizer. You’ve just finished scraping a piece of sharp metal across your skin, so no matter how carefully you shave, your face is going to be a little unhappy. Aftershaves can feel refreshing, but for some men, they actually add to the irritation. If this is you, try applying a soothing balm or an aloe vera-based cortisone cream in order to reduce redness. You can find shaving balms or cortisone cream at your local drugstore.

Apply a razor bump cream. If you’re an African-American man or susceptible to ingrown hairs, there are a few products you can apply to prevent razor bumps. Bump Stopper and Tend Skin are two products you can find at your local drugstore. Both of these products help prevent ingrown hairs from forming.

Dry your blades and brush. After you’re done shaving, dry off your blade with a towel. This will help prevent the blade from dulling quickly, keeping it nice and sharp for your next shave. Also, be sure to use a holder to hang up your badger hair brush so it gets some air to dry out. A wet brush can grow bacteria that you’ll be slathering on your face the next time you shave.

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