Soda Review: Which is the Best Root Beer?

by Brett & Kate McKay on September 13, 2008 · 106 comments

in Soda Reviews

In celebration of the Art of Manliness’ love for the finely crafted, independently made soda, today we begin a series of soda reviews . We’ll help you on your way to becoming a soda connoisseur by placing all of your favorite flavors in head to head competitions to see which soda rises to the top. Let the best fizzy beverage win.

All the sodas we will review are made with pure cane sugar or another natural sweetener, since as you know, sodas made with high fructose corn syrup constitute soda sacrilege and aren’t worth the flimsy can they come in. Most of the sodas will also be from independent bottlers.

Today we are having a showdown between various varieties of our favorite brew, root beer.

The history of root beer goes all the way back to colonial times. America’s early settlers would create brews from various herbs, roots, and barks including wintergreen, birch bark, vanilla beans, and ginger. The boiling and fermentation of these concoctions helped kill any floaters in the water that might have made the colonists sick and imbued these “beers” with a 2-10% alcohol content. But it was Charles Hires who brought the deliciousness of root beer to the masses. Mixing up an irresistible concoction of various herbs, roots, berries, and spices, Hires introduced root beer to the public at the 1876 Centennial Convention. Calling it the “The Temperance Drink,” he touted it as “the greatest health giving beverage in the world.” Despite these claims, the temperance advocates were suspicious of a beverage named “root beer.” Hires had to perform a laboratory test to prove his new drink had no more alcohol than a loaf of bread. Root beer then really caught on during Prohibition as an alternative to imbibing booze.
While root beer has forever been the red-headed stepchild to big brother cola, it’s always been at the top of my list. There’s nothing like a hot pizza and a cold root beer in a frosty mug.

Berghoff

Made in: Chicago

The bottle says: “Famous Root Beer” and “Draft Style”

OG? Since 1891

Our review: Our least favorite brew. Rather bland and limp in flavor. A little too sweet, a little too fizzy. Blah.

The AoM Verdict:

(out of four bottle caps)

Mason’s

Made in: Atlanta, GA

The bottle says: “Keg Brewed Flavor”

OG? Nope

Our review: Mason’s had a nice fizz level. But the root beer flavor was too mild and not distinct. A little too sweet. An interesting nutmeg-y accent. Goes down pretty smooth.

The AoM verdict:

Journey’s John Barleycorn

Made in: Putney, VT

The bottle says: “A diverse collection of root bark tea and root brew recipes is the source for Journey’s Historic Brews. Native Americans shared intense aromatic root tea with conquistadores in the 1500’s. Since then, the Anglos, Germans, Scandinavians and Americans have blended and brewed an estimated 60 root beer types over the last five centuries. John Barleycorn brings back Scottish and Irish American root beer traditions. Heady malted barley creates a smooth taste and sweet aroma.”

OG? Started in the 1970s.

Our review: Journey’s John Barleycorn soda bills itself as “Nutty Malty Foamy,” and it is certainly all three. Unfortunately, although the bottle and concept are quite interesting, and though we were prepared to love anything coming from the state of Vermont, the flavor just didn’t deliver. The brew is very dark and the flavor is unique, but it’s simply not very root beery or pleasant. Strange herbal accents doomed this brew.

The AoM verdict:

Capt’n Eli’s

Made in: Portland, ME

The bottle says: Nada

OG? Nope

Our review: Just the right sweetness and a really smooth flavor. Strong wintergreen flavor, almost medicinal really, but not to the point of being unpleasant.

The AoM verdict:

Boylan’s

Made in: Moonachie, NJ

The bottle says: Nada

OG? Since 1891

Our review: A fruity tasting brew with strong hints of sassafras. Not too sweet. Has a very pleasant aftertaste.

The AoM verdict:

Americana Microcrafted Root Beer

Made in: Redmond Washington

OG? Nope.

The bottle says:

“The era of soda poppery began in the early 1900s. Early soft drinks, or tonics as they were called, were available in a wide variety of flavors. Sassafras root bark created the classic American flavor we have come to know as Root Beer. Americana Cream Style is produced in true micro fashion, only 600 gallons at a time. Our extracts are carefully blended with pure cane sugar to produce a rich creamy flavor made in the tradition of those old times sodas.”

Our review:

Our hands down favorite and not just because of the vintagey-looking label. Americana has the traditional root beer taste you’re looking for in a brew. The flavor is full and robust. It labels itself as “cream style” and there’s definitely a cream soda undertone. Wintergreen flavor invigorates the tongue; hints of sassafras and licorice are subtle and add to a nice, complex flavor.

The AoM Verdict:

Editor’s note: While not available at the time of this testing, we later got a hold of Virgil’s root beer, and it easily beat every entry in this test. It’s the best root beer out there, hands down.

Got a beef with our ratings? Did we forget a root beer that you think deserves being reviewed? Drop a line in the comment box.


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{ 102 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Tig September 13, 2008 at 7:40 am

Gentleman,
These are good choices of root beers, but I know of one that failed to make your list. Henry Weinhard’s Root Beer is, in my humble opinion, the best root beer made today. Unfortunately, I can not find a link for their homepage, however if you search for the name, you can find plenty of places to order from. Worth giving a try, I would like to see how you all rank it against the rest of your selections.
Best of luck,
Tig

2 Jeff Craig September 13, 2008 at 7:45 am

Interesting post, and I’m going to be interested in following it, I’ve been moving towards reducing sharply the amount of processed food, and especially HFCS, from my diet, so I look forward to this.

> All the sodas we will review are made with pure cane sugar or another
> natural sweetener, since as you know, sodas made with high fructose
> corn syrup constitutes soda sacrilege and aren’t worth the flimsy can
> they come in. Most of the sodas will also be from independent bottlers.

The Food and Drug Administration, has recently (July) decided that High Fructose Corn Syrup legally fits the definition of a ‘natural sweetner’.

http://www.foodproductdesign.com/hotnews/fda-says-hfcs-is-natural.html

Regrettably, this is a reversal from a position stated in April.

http://www.nutraingredients-usa.com/Regulation/HFCS-is-not-natural-says-FDA

This is highly regrettable for both health and flavor reasons, but it does give that much more reason to seek out independent vendors who still have pride in their product. Quality costs, but it’s so worth it.

3 Mike September 13, 2008 at 8:11 am

I second Henry Weinhard’s, and it is available at safeway (or was). I can’t find their root beer, but their web site is http://www.henryweinhards.com/ and if you look at their wikipedia page, you will see the soda’s they make.

4 Brian September 13, 2008 at 8:28 am

I go back and forth between Weinhard’s and Bulldog rootbeer (http://www.bulldogrootbeer.com/) which is available at most Cost Plus World Market’s.

5 Shadoglare September 13, 2008 at 8:48 am

Can’t say I’ve ever seen any of these being sold around here, even the Berghoff, and I live less than two hours from Chicago :(
I’ve tried Jones root beer, which was pretty blah actually, regardless of the cane sugar.

So far my favorite (pretty good but I’m still looking for something better) is probably Roundhouse Rootbeer, another Chicagoland brew which I did a short review of back in June on my blog if anyone is interested in checking it out.

By the way, I must have missed something somewhere – what does “OG” mean?

6 Brett September 13, 2008 at 9:14 am

@Shadoglare-

“OG” is slang for “original gangster.” People use it humorously to mean something really old, the first generation of something. I’m basically using it here to mean-”Does it have a long history?”

7 Jeff September 13, 2008 at 10:07 am

You should give Abita Root Beer a try. You’d probably have to go to New Orleans to find it in a store, but it looks like you can order it here: http://www.popsoda.com/abitarootbeer.html

8 Hussey September 13, 2008 at 10:21 am

The era of soda poppery began in the early 1900s. Early soft drinks, or tonics as they were called, were available in a wide variety of flavors. Sassafras root bark created the classic American flavor we have come to know as Root Beer. Americana Cream Style is produced in true micro fashion, only 600 gallons at a time. Our extracts are carefully blended with pure cane sugar to produce a rich creamy flavor made in the tradition of those old times sodas.

9 Steve September 13, 2008 at 10:32 am

Relatively easy to find, Wisconsin-made Sprecher Root Beer tops my list, though the only one that you listed I have tried is Boylan. I was at a family reunion in WI and they had a keg of this stuff – best thing to hit my taste buds in a while!

10 Steven September 13, 2008 at 11:15 am

Where’s Virgil’s? Surely it warrants some consideration.

11 Andrew September 13, 2008 at 11:24 am

Wow, you’ve all forgotten Sparky’s Fresh Draft Root Beer, the 2003 World Beer Champions Gold Medal Winner in the Root Beer category. Pick that stuff up. http://www.sparkysrootbeer.com/

12 Lee September 13, 2008 at 12:27 pm

WHich is the best root beer?

That’s like asking which is the best colonoscopy.

13 Steve September 13, 2008 at 12:28 pm

Agreed with Tig. Henry Weinhard’s is hands down the best root beer I have ever found. I think its mostly only found on the west coast. I have to get it shipped to me in Wisconsin. 2 cases under my bed right now

Also another one that should be considered is 1919 roobeer:
http://www.1919rootbeer.com/1919/

It is only available in Kegs so you won’t find a 6 pack anywhere

14 Phil Gerbyshak September 13, 2008 at 1:00 pm

Steve’s right: Sprecher is best!

You have a great list of reviews though. Very thorough! Much to think about and try!

15 justin September 13, 2008 at 1:07 pm

Red Ribbon root beer is microbrewed to perfection, using dry ice to carbonate it giving it a very smooth feel with just enough bite to make it interesting, and a rich flavor to boot. I can’t describe it too accurately, but I definitely trusted the taste of the guy who owned the old soda shop in Los Angeles who recommended it to me.

http://www.sodapopstop.com should have some.

16 StevefromMKE September 13, 2008 at 1:21 pm

I have to agree with the other Steve too…No Sprecher’s?? And if you like cream soda, they’ve got the best too, but that’s another list.

17 Brett September 13, 2008 at 1:27 pm

@Sprecher fans-

Sprecher’s is made with HFCS which disqualified it. Although it also uses honey as a sweetener, so maybe I should give it a pass.

18 evan mathews September 13, 2008 at 2:06 pm

This kinda of a silly article. There’s over 1000 root beers in the US and you haven’t touched close to some of the best one’s. Sprecter and Weinhard’s are great beers. So is Gayle’s out of Chicago, Fitz’s in St. Louis etc. etc.

This article is akin to judging the best Micro breweries without including 90 per cent of the breweries.

You’re asking for a war. Try again.

19 Brett September 13, 2008 at 2:48 pm

@Evan-

It’s not meant to be comprehensive, it’s just for fun. Lighten up man.

Weinhard’s, Sprecher’s, and Gale’s are all made with HFCS and were thus out of the running. Please try again.

20 Valla September 13, 2008 at 2:51 pm

I don’t know too many of the major root beer brands (outside the really bad, really commercialized ones), but the best I’ve ever tried, hands down, is Virgil’s Root Beer. I’ve only ever found it at Trader Joe’s (yeah yeah…), but if you guys find it at any other normal stores please let me know :)

21 rengal September 13, 2008 at 3:11 pm

Well done! and thank you for not wasting time on the ones sweetened with high frustose corn syrup. No matter how you define it, that sweetener really is garbage, whether you look at it for taste or by its affect on the body.
My children and I are allergic to corn (my husband can eat anything), and I’m really grateful you chose root beers that were sweetened with cane sugar.

~and in regards to the above commenters: although Henry Weinhard’s is tasty, it does have corn syrup in it and other corn derived ingredients in it.

22 Matt S. September 13, 2008 at 3:19 pm

Evan Mathews above mentioned Fitz of St. Louis. Wonderful stuff. Plus, you can see it being bottled while sitting at the counter enjoying lunch or a root beer float. Another good one is made by the same folks who make Saranac beer – they also make a decent root beer.

23 Andrew M. September 13, 2008 at 3:45 pm

I’m also a big fan of Virgil’s. You absolutely MUST try their “special edition Bavarian nutmeg” it is by far the best root beer I’ve ever had. I also like Fitz’s as well and I believe they have locations in Kansas City, St. Louis and Chicago.

Great post BTW, I’ll have to find some of those to try for myself

24 Scooter September 13, 2008 at 4:08 pm

Henry Weinhard tops this list

25 Michael Johnson September 13, 2008 at 4:30 pm

Fine review, I have not had all the beers on the list but am a regular drinker of Capt’n Eli’s Root Beer.

As an aside, if you are interested in some really strong Ginger Beer then taste test the Capt’n Eli’s Ginger Beer. Too strong for me! But an interesting old-fashion taste non-the-less.

26 Matt Goldberg September 13, 2008 at 4:57 pm

I’d be curious to know how these stack up against the the three root beers with the largest market share: A&W, Barq’s, and IBC. I’m not saying these sodas are better or worse; I just want to know how they compare.

27 Jim U. September 13, 2008 at 5:02 pm
28 Zach September 13, 2008 at 5:07 pm

I live about 20 minutes from Redmond, just north of Seattle. Does anybody know a place that sells Americana Root Beer?

29 Mac September 13, 2008 at 5:09 pm

Hey,

Even if it’s disqualified, you’d all be better people for having tried Wisconsin made Sprecher Root Beer. They make it right by my old neighborhood. It’s a classic!

30 Brett September 13, 2008 at 5:22 pm

@Matt-

Yeah, it would have been interesting have thrown them in just for comparison.

We did do a taste test awhile back, putting Dr. Pepper made with HFCS against Dublin Dr. Pepper, still made with cane sugar. We wanted to see if our purist commitment was reasonable or just unfounded snobbery. We gave a blind taste to a bunch of our friends, and only 2 out of 12 people didn’t prefer the cane sugar variety. And the 2 dissenters didn’t have a preference. We filmed the test and we were going to post it on the site but we cut off a bunch of the reactions by accident when filming.

31 CaptBig September 13, 2008 at 6:02 pm

Frostie Root Beer. There is no equal. Originally brewed in Baltimore in the late 30’s, now bottled in Texas and distributed mostly in the Southeast. “Frostie man, Frostie”

32 Rod Homor September 13, 2008 at 6:23 pm

AH, finally a topic I can share my expertise about with your loyal readers, LOL. (I say this after finishing my dinner and root beer…)

Sure, Berghoff’s is a fine CHicago root beer, but heck, I would be remiss if I didn’t educate you about another fine brew: Goose Island Root Beer!

33 Helikaon September 13, 2008 at 6:27 pm

I agree with Fitz’s…just grabbed a case in St. Louis (they have a restaurant and you can watch them bottle it). Highly recommended.

34 Nudels September 13, 2008 at 8:53 pm

Virgils:

http://www.virgils.com/about.shtml

It’s definitely worth a taste.

35 Rocco Stanzione September 13, 2008 at 9:52 pm

I’m glad I’m not the only commenter saying “what about Virgil’s?” I particularly agree with Andrew M., who calls the special edition Bavarian nutmeg the best root beer he’s ever had. It was $5/bottle at my local specialty grocery store. I don’t usually spend that kind of money on soda, but I had to know what a $5 root beer tasted like, and I was not disappointed. It puts more than enough distance between itself and whatever 2nd place is to warrant the price tag.

36 Brett September 13, 2008 at 10:06 pm

I am duly convinced. I must find me a Virgil’s.

37 David September 14, 2008 at 5:59 am

I have to agree wiht the several fans of Sprecher’s who wrote before me. I have it brought to me from anyone that visits WI (now live in AR but found Sprecher’s while living in WI. Seems like a minor technicality re: the sweetner. It’s still the best I’ve enjoyed.

You also missed several other good WI root beers but perhaps because of the HFCS issue.

38 Fish September 14, 2008 at 8:11 am

I agree you should try Abita root beer

39 Aaron Krug September 14, 2008 at 9:53 am

Adding another one to the long list of Henry Weinhards supporters. A nice review can be found at:

http://www.rootbeerreviews.com/brews/henryweinhard.php

or

http://www.lukecole.com/root%20beer/Luke%27s%20root%20beers%20-%20H%20-%20HenryWeinhard.htm

or

http://www.sodaking.com/product_info.php/products_id/160

or

http://www.bevnet.com/reviews/henry_weinhard/UserReviews_316.asp

In short, many folks out there think this is the best around as far as root beer is concerned.

40 Richard September 14, 2008 at 11:57 am

Brett, you ever try Cheerwine? It has a strong cult following locally. I may be wrong, but I believe it is made with all natural sweeteners.

http://www.cheerwine.com

Contact me at my email and I will send you a bottle if you wish. I would send a glass bottle. Plastic stinks.

41 Beau September 14, 2008 at 5:21 pm

I’m one of the Henry Weinhard’s root beer fans out there. Hands down, I think that it is the best root beer.

I’ve had some of the brews mentioned in the comments, but none are as good (and readily available) as Weinhard’s.

This was a great read!

42 Chris September 14, 2008 at 6:45 pm

Because nothing says manliness like root beer.

Sodas? Really?

An article on making your own would be more appropriate for this site. Hell an article on making your own beer would be even better.

43 Andy September 14, 2008 at 7:13 pm

I was going to mention virgil’s, but I noticed it had already been said. The root beer was excellent, but their cream soda is probably the best soda of any kind, hands down.

44 Michael September 14, 2008 at 10:41 pm

I’ll add another voice to the Virgil’s choir.
They’re owned by Reeds and have similar distribution. Not everywhere that has one has the other, but that is usually the case. I used to buy Virgil’s at Dodson’s when I lived in Norman.
I’d also recommend trying some of the Reed’s Ginger Brews if you go to get some Virgil’s. They are much less sweet than root beer, and have a very strong ginger taste. Some of their sodas are sweetened with fructose (which I’m pretty sure is from non corn sources) while others are sweetened only with honey and fruit juice.

When you were in Vermont did you try any of the Pop Soda varieties? I liked them quite a bit when I was visiting Vermont.

45 Dan Nelson September 15, 2008 at 7:34 am

Terrific Choices all of them. I have never tried the Americana, I will have to seek it out. I saw a review of your off the shelf variety here:

http://www.jath.com/mt/jathmt/archives/2000/03/root_beer.php?movieToLoad=rootbeerone_100k.swf

46 Zach September 15, 2008 at 8:52 am

I’m a lucky man. I just found out that the distributor for Americana is a couple blocks from where I work. I’m goin’ get my drink on!

47 Denise Montgomery September 15, 2008 at 11:51 am

Anyone know where you can buy any of these? I live in GA and I have NEVER seen Mason’s in ANY store or restaurant in GA!

Would really like to try the Americana Root Beer…I’m headed to Portland, OR in a few days and if there’s any possibility of getting it there…

48 Hasnain September 15, 2008 at 1:34 pm

At first, I was in shock that Virgil’s wasnt mentioned in the reviews. But Virgil’s has a strong support base. When I searched for it by name, I felt at ease that reader’s know good root beer and cream soda! Best I’ve had. Their cream soda is aaah-mazing.

49 Hasnain September 15, 2008 at 1:36 pm

I’d like to know how Virgil’s stacks up to the competition in this review. Would love to know if something tastes better.

50 Brett McKay September 15, 2008 at 1:41 pm

@Hasain-

We couldn’t find any Virgil’s for the review. But we’ll keep our eyes open and if we come across it, we’ll definitely add it in.

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