10 Outdated Men’s Fashions That Still Have The Charm
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Written by Ross Crooks and Jason Lankow
A man’s wardrobe is an important part of his image. Sadly, fashion has become a much-neglected area in the life of the modern man. Though it is often viewed as a “softer” topic these days, this has not always been the case. Dapper attire was once thought as important as proper grooming or a firm handshake. An over-sized Perry Ellis dress shirt billowing out the top of a pair of pleated khakis purchased from Nordstrom Rack just wouldn’t cut it. The way a man dresses and carries himself reflects a strong self-perception and high level of confidence. It is essential to making a strong first impression.
Although many men see fashion as outside of their area of expertise, it is actually quite simple. Men’s fashion, like all fashion, is cyclical. Themes are constantly being recreated from the past, classic features of the era are kept and re-used, while the most dramatic and dated items are discarded. For example, the 70’s boot cut, flared, or “bell-bottomed” pants will forever creep their way back into the fashion spectrum in one way or another year after year, while leisure suits will never, ever have their day in the sun again. Simple.
Without going completely rogue and attempting to bring back the more extreme styles of yesteryear, a man can look to the past to seek inspiration for his own wardrobe. There lie some fashion gems that have the potential to impress one’s peers and make the ladyfolk swoon. Following are 10 outdated styles that still have their charm and maintain relevance today.
1. Horn Rim Glasses
Eye problems? Embrace them.
20-20 vision? Fake it.
Taking you back to the 50’s, these specs will make you look interesting. And everyone wants to be interesting. Anyone who thinks these are nerdy is missing the point. The most common style has a thick rim around the entire lens (think Buddy Holly), while a slight variation and my personal favorite, the Brimline (think Malcolm X), are also a cool option. They can be worn effortlessly with a winter suit, trench and hat, or a v-neck with old jeans and Converse. These glasses are the optical equivalent of a scotch on the rocks.
2. Ascot Tie
There is a glaring lack of options when it comes to men’s neckwear. When it is time to spice it up a bit, some deviance may be necessary. A classy substitute for the classic necktie, the ascot can be worn for formal or casual occasions. Though the modern necktie remains the standard in its genre, various other pieces are available. Most all of them are derived from the cravat, made popular in the late 16th century, which was merely a strip of linen tied around the neck, typically in a bow shape. The ascot tie is also referred to as the day cravat and is typically made of silk, worn under the collar and tucked into the front of the shirt. Be sure to use caution when trying out your new accessory, as it should appear natural, not attempting to make a bold statement. As a rule: think class, not costume.
3. The Pocket Watch
“Excuse me sir, do you have the time?” has never sounded so good. Originating in the 16th century, the pocket watch was for a long time the gentleman’s key accessory, as wristwatches were thought effeminate. They had their heyday during the late 19th century when the American Railway Association set these as the standard for railroad workers’ watches in order to minimize accidents.
More recently, popularity has dwindled due to the adoption of large faced wristwatches. You know those little pockets in your suit vest? They are not for your ID and debit card or an iPod Shuffle. The chain or “fob” attached to your lapel or waistcoat provides an interesting contrast to your suit that is attention grabbing, but not too ostentatious.
4. One-Piece Long Johns
While not something you should endeavor to wear while in public, one-piece long johns still have a certain old-world charm. With a button front and a back flap, their extraordinary function is undeniable. If not to be sported on the street, you may wonder about the proper occasion to display these off-white beauties. Paired with old, unlaced work boots, your long johns are best worn when stumbling groggily out of a tent or log cabin with a double-barreled shotgun under one arm. For added effect, mutter a few unintelligible phrases about “rascals” or “varmints” and fire the gun a couple of times into the air.
5. The Tie Bar
Whether used in a business or social setting, a tie bar completes the suit. It shows that in dressing yourself, no detail has been overlooked. Everything is in place, and you plan on keeping it there. This neat appearance is what men’s fashion is all about; a gentleman should be well put together. This small clip also adds a stylish embellishment to your wardrobe, especially when worn with a matching pair of cuff links. It should be worn horizontally, halfway between the knot and the bottom tip of the necktie. Be sure that the color is similar to the metal tone on your watch and belt.
6. Tailcoats
Be it a statesman or a gunslinger, many a man has donned the tailcoat. Originally designed to be a less formal version of the Frock Coat (a long coat that extends to the knees all the way around), it was made especially for horseback riding but soon became acceptable for formal occasions as well. The long, slim profile of the jacket gives a tall, distinguished appearance, serving fashion’s primary purpose; to make one look much better than they are in actuality. The morning coat (pictured above) is a preferred variation of the tailcoat, as it has no sharp angles around the waistline; rather, it tapers smoothly from the breast back to the tails.
7. Tortoiseshell
From sunglasses to guitar picks, this textured brown material just looks good. Some vintage spectacle frames or the accessories in your Dopp kit in tortoiseshell will make any man look cultured and classy. Widespread appreciation began in the Victorian Era with its use in making jewelry, and continued due to its durability and natural warmth when pressed against the skin. The bad news is that it is primarily produced from the shell of the Hawksbill turtle, which is now classified as an endangered species. Fortunately, there are some great synthetic substitutes on the market that look just as good.
8. Saddle Shoes
A man’s sense of style is easily detectable based on his shoe selection. This means that it is important to have the right pair for every occasion. That being said, stick to the classics. The saddle shoe is one such design that has been popular throughout the years. Great for the summertime, the two-toned oxfords go well with seersucker or linen, just leave out the porkpie hat unless you are headed to a garden party. If the traditional black on white color combination is a bit extreme for your personal taste, tone down the contrast with a black/brown or tan/white pair.
9. Argyle
Argyle is one of the only patterns that have consistently remained acceptable for a man to wear. And no, the Tommy Bahama hibiscus flower is not one of the others. Due to the layering, the design is said to have been the earliest known use of two-dimensional spacing to achieve a three-dimensional effect, taken from the tartan of an old Scottish clan from Argyll.
On socks (pictured above), the checkered diamond pattern adds a splash of color to monochromatic suits. The use of the print has become more popular recently on sweaters, scarves and wool caps as well. However, if you are a real man, you know there is only one way to wear it: the kilt.
10. Wool Knickers
A British woman may shudder at the term, but these were an essential part of any sharp gentleman’s closet from the 1920’s and 30’s. With long dress socks and a pair of unpolished oxfords, the urban dandy is ready to hit the street. The loose fitting upper provides comfort and mobility for casual occasions or for sporting. Their shortened length ensure that the bottoms won’t get caught in the gears of your metal steed, and thus make them ideal for pedaling about town on a chilly day. Payne Stewart pulled off the look on the links most recently, though his influence didn’t spill over to everyday wear.
Now, I am not encouraging all of you men to run right out and have a custom pattern made to suit your specs, but if you are feeling a bit avant garde, it is indeed an inspired look. If you are confused about the difference between knickers and male Capri pants, don’t wear either.
My girlfriend makes fun of my tie bar. I really had no idea they were out of fashion. I personally can’t stand having my tie flap around in the breeze–or anything else for that matter.
Knickers are still a big deal among many a bike riding man. You can see these (http://www.chromebags.com:80/products/apparel/show/44/) some what shi-shi knickers are for sale in boutique bike shops.
Also, I’ve recently stolen my dad’s tie tack that doubles as a slide rule. It’s a hit.
Hi Ross and Jason
Some interesting additions although in the traditional sense, saddle shoes arent Oxfords as Oxfords have a toe cap.
Best regards
Neil
Regarding #5 , The Tie Bar. my corporation actually sent out a note about them in our newsletter last year. It was a travel warning saying that if you were going to dangerous countries, that criminals or terrorists could tell you were American if you were wearing a tie clip (bar). Apparently European and Asian businessmen do not wear them (at least not in 2007). Interesting.
Wearing an ascot is only for the eccentric. Being odd or eccentric is not manly.
Ok, you have me completely conflicted. On the one hand I want to keep my husband FAR FAR AWAY from this article and its promotion of the LONGJOHN, horned rimmed glasses, and WOOL KNICKERS. (!!!)
On the other hand, I adore tie bars, argyle, and especially pocket watches.
Let’s call it a draw and I will give him the verbal recap of this article, suitably edited, of course.
Similar to the saddle shoe, here in the UK a man’s wardrobe cannot be said to be complete without a good sturdy pair of brown (and it has to brown) brouges.
There brilliant and can be worn casual with jeans or more formal with a smart suite’ and if that suite happens to be navy blue… well your ahead of the game.
Pocket watches are too cool. Especially those handed down from grandpa or dad. A tie bar assumes you still wear a tie. I can’t remember the last time a wore a tie. One piece longjohns are a must however. Nothing more comfortable.
I’m disappointed that you missed the opportunity to link back to your excellent article on hats (since, though they are still in fashion with a certain set, they are a fashion from an earlier age):
http://artofmanliness.com/2008/05/28/the-perfect-hat-for-your-ugly-mug/
You could have also linked to your pocket square post (though that can be fully argued that that has never gone out of fashion, it’s just suffered from a lack of attention due to lack of haberdashers and ignorant suit wearers):
http://artofmanliness.com/2008/06/15/how-to-fold-a-pocket-square/
Also, may I submit for consideration and discussion some additional out-of-fashion favorites that still have charm:
* The smoking jacket (Still conveys an instant image of erudition when used by comedians or satirists. This attire is made to go with the club chair in a walnut-paneled library.)
* The double-breasted suit (It makes manly-built men look like monoliths.)
* The three piece suit (A fifties fashion sullied by association with eighties power-brokers, this deserves a comeback.)
* The night shirt (This may be in fashion. Though, I fear the sweat suit and lounge pant has replaced it.)
* The wristwatch (Though this may be a merely endangered fashion, a cellphone is a poor substitute for an actual timepiece.)
* The stirrup sock (If you are going to suggest knickers, then I’d like to see them return to baseball, along with the stirrup sock.)
* The waistcoat (A collared, fitted vest, how can you rock a tailcoat without one?)
* The seersucker suit (This seems to see sporadic stabs at returning, but pure Summer class nonetheless.)
And iClaudius, I have to respectfully disagree that being odd or eccentric is not manly. Like patriotism, it depends fully on the expression. Uncle Wadsworth padding out in the middle of the night in pith helmet, slip-on slippers and night gown with his best 12-guage shotgun to hunt the dreaded East Anglia Night Elephant might be an example of a manly oddness. However, I do agree that the ascot is a tough act to pull off in this day and age and still manage to have “charm.”
wutho:
Amen to the 3 piece suit.
I was recently getting some new duds for a wedding and found some nice pants (which was harder than I thought it would be, pleated hips and cuffed hems are almost impossible to avoid in “suit” stores, two styles I dont particularly like) and the shirt easy enough (didnt get french cuffs unfortunately, didnt have time to get cufflinks and was running out of time) but at the end of the day not one store sold vests that werent part of a tuxedo (usually in baby blue sheer material or some such nonsense).
When did vests fall out of favor so much that you cant find them even at stores that claim to be geared toward menswear and suits specifically.
So rather than completing my outfit, I ended up looking like some high schooler going to their homecoming dance.
Coats are hard to get that arent the standard puffy shouldered business thing. I have broad shoulders already, I dont need any help, thanks anyway.
Its really unbelievable how substandard mens clothing is compared to what it once was in these stores. Really frustrating honestly.
@ iclaudius
eccentricity is not manly? my dear, eccentricity is being self determinant and self determinance is as manly is as it is possible to be.
Chin chin,
Neil
There were a few great suggestions in this article. It’s good to see a throwback to the good days instead of attempting to resurrect the 60’s and 70’s like the great majority of fashion trends.
Thank you for mentioning over-sized dress shirts and baggy pleated khakis! i see men wearing this “uniform” much too often and it is horrible! Great article!
@wutho
I have good news about the seersucker suit. As a southern gentlemen, they have never lost favor in the Old North State.
You hit the nail on the head with the one piece long johns! I still rock those bad boys when using the snowblower, riding the motorcycle at the edges of the riding season and when camping. They are especially handy here in Ontario Canada. As for some of the other items, meh. Kudos on the writeup!
Zendad
http://www.zendad.net
@Novel
Heh, my first run through called out the seersucker as being out of favor with Yankees, but second guessed myself. It seems I would have been better served to acknowledge the South!
Also, have thought of a couple of other items that might also work. How about…
* The dinner jacket? Is it possible to wear one of these now and not be taken for a waiter? Still, if Mr. Bogart could make it work how can we allow it to be the sole province of our waitstaff?
* The bow tie? This one I’m not sure of. It’s still seen, but is too often the province of those trying to “create a brand” as a brainy poindexter. Also, it doesn’t cover the often-gapping, poorly made, French front shirts that we non-bespoke types wear nowadays.
* The boutonnière. No question about this one. A flower in a man’s lapel is a great way to look dapper, and is a great softening element to the otherwise severe feel of a man’s suit.
I’m wearing a pair of horn-rimmed glasses right now! I had them made by getting a pair of Rayban Wayfarer sunglasses and having prescription lenses put in them. You can get Wayfarers in (probably synthetic) tortoise. That covers two items on the list.
Pistolette:
Just like a week or two ago I watched a PBS show on Japan and there was a guy with a tie clip!
Spencer
Ah, the bow tie. I wear one quite often.
No need for a tie clip/bar/tack. They never get in the way and it’s easier to dry clean a shirt than a nice tie, so I don’t have to worry as much about spills.
Not everyone knows how to tie one, which puts those of us do in an exclusive club.
This wasn’t on the list (or i missed it) but for the past 2 months now i’ve been shopping around looking for a Fedora that I think suits me.
Just for something different as you dont see many people wearing them, makes one stand out a bit from the crowd.
That’s one thing I love about this site, you guys bring old ideas BACK.
I’m not a particularly dapper dresser myself, but I do love retro clothing. I myself favor baggy chinos and bowling shirts. In praise of the simple bowling shirt!
By the way, I can’t get behind you on the ascot thing, but I’d like to point out that scarves are - or were - in for men this year.
I’d say suspenders. Don’t really see them too much today, but man are they manly.
I’ve never liked the look of tie tacks, tie clips, tie bars, etc, but don’t like my ties (when I have to wear them) flopping all over. So what I do is take a larger size paper clip and clip the small end of the tie to my shirt. Voila! tie stays in place, apparently like magic.
As far as hats go, I also wish the more functional and dapper ones would make a comeback. So in the meantime, I occasionally doff my Bay Hat waxed canvas “Cape Flattery.” Vaguely resembles a fedora, but is far removed enough that it does not engender foolish comments like “Hey, whatt’re you, Indiana Jones? Duh-HAW!” Excellent hat when the rain and snow comes (keep it waxed!), and so far has stayed pretty cool in dead of summer. Gotten some compliments from it, too. Clearly for casual wear, tho; don’t think it’d go with a suit of any kind.
Oh yeah, suspenders: I just ordered the “dressy” (1 1/2″) side clip ones from Duluth Trading. I got three (khaki/dk. blue/black) and am VERY impressed with the quality and the price. They’re sharp looking and HIGHLY recommended!!!
Great list. Although I had no idea the tie bar was out of fashion. It’s a must for me. I’ve always wanted a pocketwatch, I may have to take a look next time I’m out shopping. I am buying new glasses next week and you bet your bippy I’ll be checking out some tortiseshell and hornrims.
Suspenders are the poor man’s braces.
Great post. Anyone got links or sources for some of these items (especially horn-rimmed glasses)?
Re: knickers - I’d always thought that knickers were another name for underwear and that the type of trousers in the photo are called Plus 4s.
RED UNION SUITS! There isn’t a piece of clothes that can beat a union suit. Great in winter under clothes, great for lounging by the fire, and it gotta be a square flap for those nature times, not the little slit type. No that’s a man’s piece of clothes.
@Ed44 For horn rimmed glasses, http://www.moscot.com is the best. They still make their frames the way they did in 1915. Their lenses have vintage tints to them to give a classic feel. I wouldn’t go anywhere else.
rtcrooks,
Thanks for the Moscot link. They have just what I’m looking for.
Tie bars are a faux-pas.
Saddle shoes, long johns.. Not very distinguished menswear either.
Tortoise glasses and the ascot tie are the only items I would consider wearing at one point.
ascots I’d disagree with. what are we, scooby doo?
Fedoras, on the other hand. I love the old fashioned hat. I’m looking for a derby.
Dude. Fountain pens. That’s the easy one
Errr. By which I meant, “that’s an easy one.” The true weapon of a gentleman.
Yay!! Vintage style of mens apparels are looking so attractive!!
@iClaudius: Being eccentric is having some personality. You have to make your clothing ‘yours’. Why be like everyone else?
HATS! Hats are the bomb and oh-so manly. You definitely missed out on them here. Other than that: great list!
Some of the stuff on this site is cool like steps on living a virtuous life and the guide on being a good husband, but Im starting to think the guy that started this site hung out with his grandpa way too much. Why the hell would you need one-piece long johns or a freaking ascot? You dont have to look like you came from the 1930’s (which sucked despite what your grandpa told you) to be a gentleman.
A Pocket Watch!
Excellent. I have recently been perusing eBay for Pocket Watches, as I personally believe that is would make a fine addition to apparel. especially with the new burgeoning genre I’ve stumbled upon…known as ‘SteamPunk. [a derivative of cyberpunk]
I have recommended this site and the Watch to many of my male friends in sore need of ‘Manning-up’
And further to previous posts: Eccentricity is a damn good thing. It sets you apart. Makes you a man not a mouse.
Saddle shoes and argyle socks are all well and good, though hardly any kind of fashion revelation.
Ascots are for ascotholes.
I think cufflinks would definitely need to make number 11 on your list. Very classy, but generally out dated. I were them everyday with my suits to work, and I get a lot of compliments.
Loved the article and I plead guilty to at least 6 of the 10. Most recently saddle shoes and argyle socks. And the tie bars are making a big come back. I saw ton’s of them in Macy’s last week.
What about suspenders?
I love all of them (I have a major thing for old dudes and old dude stuff) but not the knickers, ascot, or the horn rims. I’d buy the horn rims on a genuine old dude, but on a young feller, it just looks like they’re trying too hard to be retro-chic. The ascot is NOT manly (i doubt it ever was) and the knickers are just, plain, silly! Back in the later seventies when those were in style for girls, my dad used to call them “seven day shitters” so I can’t really think of them any other way.
These are some bold suggestions - I love almost all of them! But beware - they take a man with panache and confidence to pull them off; there’s no room for timid men here. Nothing worse than someone (man OR woman) who looks like the clothes are wearing them. I hope more men learn to appreciate and embrace the look of classic menswear.
All of these are good pieces, but aren’t they also staples of “indie” fashion? Doesn’t make sense to criticize the indie kids for their uniform and then praise the uniform.
Love the Union Suit! Funny, I just did a reference on my site regarding union suits based on the writings of a manly American man from World War I. Check it out!
Fountain pens I agree with. And pocketwatches. Horn-rimmed or black-plastic-rimmed glasses? Unh-uh. Looked bad back in the 1950s, look bad today.
Some suggestions: stickpins (though they’re usually better on the lapel, unless your tie is monochrome), breast-pocket handkerchiefs, and horsehide or steerhide coats (not ordinary leather jackets, which have never gone much out of style).
Oh, and iClaudius? “Being odd or eccentric is not manly?” I stand with Ralph Waldo Emerson on that one:
“Whoso would be a man, must be a nonconformist.”
@Novel- Thank you for separating suspenders from braces.
I work in construction management and often wear braces to the office. There is an older gentleman whom I work with who came up to me the other day and said
“What’s your name again?”
“Jack.”
“Jack, goddamnit, where are your braces today? It reminds me of the better days when men were men and we built buildings as if they were going to be there forever.”
THAT is a ringing endorsement for braces.
Regarding suspenders / braces… fellas, NEVER purchase or wear the clip-on kind… they’re tacky. Be a real man and wear the kind you have to button onto your waistband. Get your girlfriend or wife to sew six buttons on the inside of your waistband, or else sew them onto the pants yourself. It takes a needle, some thread, and about 4 minutes per button. Nothing to it.
I’ve been wearing braces for several decades now. It’s a good, classic look that if done with panache will impress your friends and the ladies. Just today 3 women at work told me I was the most handsomely dressed guy there, and I feel like I barely even try. I had to laugh though when I read through this list… I was wearing a couple of the things there (tortoiseshell glasses and pocket watch) and of course the suspenders and nice shoes.
Guys, it isn’t all that hard to stand out in a good way… just stick with the classics!
Jasper