The Perfect Hat For Your Ugly Mug
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What we find attractive is largely based on symmetry. The more symmetrical a face is, the more appealing it appears to others. But there’s not much we can do, short of surgery, to change the symmetry of our faces. There are ways to mitigate our asymmetries, however. You may have heard a woman in your life talk about getting a haircut that flatters her particular face shape. While dude haircuts don’t come in enough varieties to have the same effect, there is another way guys can balance out their faces: hats. All hats make a man look more dapper. But picking a hat that is right for your face shape will increase your attractiveness and give you an ever sharper appearance. If you’ve been inspired to bring back the hat, but weren’t sure what kind of hat to get, this guide will help you pick the right hat for your ugly mug.
Anatomy of a hat
Before we get started, let’s do a quick rundown of some of the terms we’ll be using to fit a hat to your mug.
“Taper” describes how narrow the top of the crown is compared to the bottom.
Here’s an example of a hat that tapers. Notice how it gets narrower near the top of the crown.
Here’s a hat that has no taper. Notice how the crown doesn’t narrow as it gets to the top.
Now let’s match a hat to that ugly mug of yours:
Short Full Face
Your face is shaped like: Jack Black
A round face tends to look short, so you want a hat that will give you a little height.
Crown: Medium height and size
Taper: Slight
Hat Band: Narrow band of a contrasting color will add height
Brim: Moderate width. Snap the brim to its full width and turn it up. Never snap it down or it will make your face appear shorter.
Tilt: Back from face; tilting it over face will make the face appear shorter.
Recommended hat: Fedora, Gambler, Panama
Long, Thin Face
Your face is shaped like: Will Arnett
Look for a hat that shortens the appearance of your face.
Crown: Shorter height. Avoid crowns that are square, full, or too high.
Taper: Moderate
Hat Band: Wide (will make you face shorter) with a contrasting color to break up your vertical lines
Brim: Moderately wide, snapped from ear to ear
Tilt: To the side with a slight back tilt
Recommended hat: Fedora, Homburg, Derby
Top Heavy Face
Your face is shaped like: Jon Favreau
The top heavy face is wider on the top half and tapers to a more narrow chin line. You want a hat that will balance the top and bottom out.
Crown: Medium to short height, pinched toward the front. Avoid crowns that are full or too high.
Taper: Moderate taper
Hat Band: Medium to narrow, in a color similar to the color of the hat.
Brim: Medium width, rolled at back and sides, flat in front
Tilt: To the side, and not too far back on the head or you’ll show too much of your wide forehead
Recommended hat: Fedora, Homburg
Square Face
Your face is shaped like: Orlando Bloom
Pick a hat that will add some curvature to your face and make it appear less boxy.
Crown: Medium height, full and round
Taper: Minimal to non-existent
Brim: Wide width, fully snapped or turned up
Tilt: A side tilt will break up your square face lines. Don’t push it too far back on your head.
Recommended Hat: Homburg, Bowler
Long Nose
Your nose resembles: Adrien Brody, although perhaps not that long
Pick a hat that will break up the line from the brim to the tip of your nose.
Crown: Medium height, and not pinched too tightly at the front.
Taper: Minimal to non-existent
Hat Band: Wide and colorful
Brim: Wide width, you want it to extend beyond the tip of your nose
Tilt: To the side
Recommended Hat: Fedora
Prominent Jaw
You’ve got a chin like: Aaron Eckhart
Pick a hat that will balance your strong chin.
Crown: Medium or low height, avoid crowns that are full or too high. Pick one with side dents, this adds just the right amount of fullness.
Taper: Slight
Brim:Medium width, snapped fully across. Make sure it doesn’t turn up in the back sharply or it will make the jaw appear even more prominent.
Tilt: Level, with a side tilt.
Recommended Hat: Fedora
Receding Chin
You’ve got a chin like: Paul Dano
Pick a hat that will draw attention upwards, away from the chin.
Crown: Low height
Taper: Significant
Hat Band: Narrow
Brim: Flat, or very shallow snap
Tilt: Level, with significant side tilt.
Recommended Hat: Porkpie, Trilby, Fedora with short crown and brim
Prominent Ears
You’re ears stick out like: Will Smith
If you ears are large or stick out, pick a hat that will cover them.
Crown: Full and moderately tall
Taper: Minimal to slight
Brim: As wide as possible in order to cover the ears and make them seem smaller. Flat or fully snapped. Do not roll the brim as this will highlight the ears.
Tilt: Down in the back.
Recommended Hat: Gambler, Panama, Wide-brimmed Fedora
The Best Hat for Hair and Complexion
Most hat colors look good on any man. But some go particularly well with certain complexions and hair colors.
The Best Hat Color For Your Complexion
Ruddy: Brown, Blue, Gray
Dark: Brown
Darker Olive: Brown or Green
Pale: Dark Blue, Gray
The Best Hat Color For You Hair Color
Auburn, Red: Brown, Green, Blue
Blonde: Brown, Green, Gray
Brown: Gray, Green
Gray Hair: Green, Gray
Pulling it all together: Matching your clothes with your hat
You can wear a hat any old time, with any outfit, of any color. But when you want to look particularly sharp, make sure your hat color complements your suit or outfit.
The Brown Hat
Brown hats look best with brown or green suits or coats. If wearing a dark blue or dark gray suit, a dark brown hat may also look acceptable.
The Gray Hat
Gray hats are quite versatile and can be paired with black, blue, and dark gray suits and coats.
The Blue Hat
Wear a blue hat with a blue or gray suit or coat. If pairing a blue suit with a blue hat, the colors must match fairly closely. Alternatively, you can pair a dark blue suit with a light blue hat or vice versa. You can also get away with wearing a blue hat with a light brown or tan suit.
The Green Hat
Green hats are surprisingly versatile. They look best with tan or light brown suits. But they also accent black, green, and gray suits very nicely.
What about black hats? do they just go with anything? I particularly see myself wearing something neutral like a black fedora, and I think that fedora matched my face shape from the above guide. Will need a second opinion on the hat design, but for colors, it’s like you left out the classic black option, or did you mean that to be the wild card as black tends to be? hehe
thanks!
@Mark-I don’t know why, but I couldn’t find a lot of info about black hats. I guess they are the wild card. I think they would go well with most suits, but might look off when paired with a brown suit.
i find black to be timeless, it will never be out of fashion
and it dousnt stain that easy
Here’s a good quesiton: I wear glasses so a hat that sits too low on my head or a brim that dips a little hits the rim of my glasses. Also the front tilt is therefore imposible. So what would be the best hap option for someone who wears glasses?
I’ve been wearing a black fedora for a long time. It goes with everything.
Or rather, everything goes with it.
Fantastic post. I’m in the market for a hat and this will come in handy when I am looking around. I’ve got a pretty long nose and a narrow face so I think a fedora is the direction I will go in.
Mark black is good for the most part but if you are wearing a navy suit you can’t pull it off. The same applies with shoes for a navy suit. Keep in mind you never see American politicians or bankers in black suits, those are reserved for funerals and weddings for the most part. I’m not quite sure why that is, as the rumor/saying goes, it’s an American tradition, partly because Abraham Lincoln was shot and killed in a black Brooks Brother suit. I’m fairly sure Brooks brothers only recently started carrying black suits again. So it might be a better option to go with something like a very dark charcoal gray. That way you hedge your bets.
I think in keeping in line of bringing the hat back, you guys should have a post showing a wide variety of poeple wearing different types of hats. just to give everyone a good idea of what is out there, and what looks good and what doesn’t. or i guess i should say whats in style and whats not.
just a thought.
So, my big question is: Where can I find hats to buy?
I’d love to put on my suit, stroll into the local hat store and try a couple on to see what looks good. It seems though that there may be a national hat shortage.
I’ve been keeping my eyes open at local suit and menswear places, but I haven’t seen more than the occasional odd hat, certainly no selection.
@Richard-Look in your phone book for a local hat shop, a place that sells only hats. Most moderately sized cities should have at least one. They are really a fun place to visit-you can try on a large selection and see which one you like.
@Trey-You may want to look into getting a homburg, the brim rolls up all the way around. Also, a trilby has a shorter brim and could be a good option.
I’m so glad you wrote about this! Now if I could only feel confident enough to wear one of these!
@Tyler-You just have to go for it. I recently bought a Fedora and have been wearing it everywhere. I am getting tons of compliments. It looks sharp and people really dig it.
@Trey: Maybe a porkpie? When I think of glasses and a hat, I think of elvis costello:
http://cache.viewimages.com/xc/3232511.jpg?v=1&c=ViewImages&k=2&d=9724400E855F92639882428C6427D53AA55A1E4F32AD3138
Also, why no flat caps? Are they too “working class” to get on the list? What gives?
These hats will come back around the same time as short neckties and high-waisted pants.
@Pat-Flat caps are great. I consulted several sources in compiling this list and none of them specially recommended flat caps for particular face shape types. This may be because they look good with most face types. And you don’t pair them with suits, which is why they don’t make the “match the hat with your suit list.”
@Brett – Thanks, I suspected as much. Your comment about not pairing them with suits is exactly why I wear a flat-cap the most… I don’t typically wear a suit!
This was pretty awesome. I’m definitely going to keep this stuff in mind!
Useful beginning tips, especially the terminology. (I note that “Bringing Back the Hat,” linked above, describes the major hat styles, another necessary bit of knowledge.) If you possibly can, though, it’s a good idea to visit a brick-and-mortar store and see how various styles look on you. I find sometimes the rules of thumb on what looks good for what face or body type, while useful as starting points, can end up making me look silly if I follow them slavishly. (Or maybe I just look silly, and certain styles let me hide that fact from myself …)
I found This site with hats http://www.bencrafthats.com
thought i would share it -i got a Tortona by Borsalino
I feel compelled to hawk these guys in my home town: http://www.heimies.com . I have two of their hats, and never have I had more compliments than when wearing the classic fedoras I bought there.
Something to consider: If you’re going to buy a hat, be sure to find a classic style that will last, and get a hat which will hold up as long. A good, classic hat from a haberdasher will cost a bit more than one of the current trendy ones you can find at a generic department store (e.g. Macy’s men’s department), but in terms of quality and style it’s very, very much worth it. Wool felt wears out relatively quickly; find something in hare or, if available, beaver fur, and you’ll have a hat that will last for years.
I love this article. It’s very well put together and it hits me closely as I just recently bought my first hat. Of course it was a $12 hat from a novelty store (a straw fedora) so I wouldn’t exactly call it quality. But it’s given me enough of a taste that I can say I’m definitely interested in looking into something better.
My problem is, I’m having trouble finding any stores in Boston. This strikes me as absurd. Boston is a decent size city. I can’t believe that it wouldn’t have a hat store. Maybe my search skills are not as strong as I thought. All I can find are baseball cap stores and a few woman’s hat stores.
Could anybody recommend any stores in Boston? Or even find any online somehow? I’m having no luck. Accessibility by public transportation would be a huge plus if at all possible, but that’s not a necessity.
@adam- Try checking out an African American haberdashery. Black males have done a much better job keep the hat tradition alive than their white counterparts. I bought my hat at a hat store and haberdashery in the historic Greenwood section of Tulsa. In it’s hay day it was called the “Black Wall Street.” Sadly, it’s also the location of the 1920’s Tulsa Race Riot. The store owner was a really nice guy and helped me find the perfect hat for my face. So, that’s my first suggestion.
As for as online stores go, there are plenty on the net. Just google men’s hats and you’ll find some good ones. This site has a nice collection: http://millerhats.com/ as does this one: http://www.villagehatshop.com/mens-hats.html
Happy hat hunting.
@Brett & Kate McKay- Thank you very much for your response. I should clarify that when I said “find any online” I meant find any stores in Boston online As in, it’s not necessary that you’ve actually been there or not.
Considering this is my first time seriously looking at a hat I figure it’s probably best to get the opinion of an experienced store clerk or at the very least be able to try something on before I buy it. Thank you very much though. I appreciate the quick reply.
I bought a Tilley about a year ago. You pay for a good hat, but it comes with a Lifetime Guarantee. Awesome hat, no too dressy, but I use it when I’m outdoors or fishing.
I own a hat shop in Tulsa,Oklahoma. Actually, I am 99% percent sure that i am the shop that Brett & Kate McKay are referring to ( as we are the only hat shop in town, lt alone the area). Hats are a great tradition. They are deinitely coming back instyle and top off the perfect outfit. It is fun and exciting see people trying them on and the diffrence it makes. One customer came in with an ol picture of his gradfather wearing hat. We searched through our collection until we found a hat that was pretty close to indentical. This shows that the style of a hat is everlasting.
Take it off when you are indoors
I really love talking about hats, so I really liked this entry. Good on ya.
However, I just wanted to ask: what if you fit more than one characteristic? I mean, I could be described as short full face, long nose, and receding chin. Considering the descriptions of the perfect hats contradict, how do I know which hat to choose?
Wonderful post, just what I was looking for. The fedora seems to be a good fit for my type of face but I am also drawn to the straw fedora’s. Do you think one can wear that year round or are their season rules with men’s hats?
Thanks! ~M
Straw fedoras are great. I’ve been rocking a gray one all summer long. If you live in a temperate climate, where it is warm all year round, then you should feel free to wear a straw fedora in all seasons. But if you live in a place with a “real” winter and fall then a felt fedora is appropriate (and will keep your noggin warm!). Happy hat hunting!
One Trilby bought and being rocked right now.
Reminds me of a picture of Tom Waits as a used car salesman.
And Tom Waits is the perfect Gents musician.
I really enjoyed this article and find myself reading more and more about hats. I love my new straw Borsalino I purchased earlier this week from the shop Brett has mentioned here in Tulsa. If your thinking about getting a hat you owe it to yourself you to find a shop like this and they will help you find what looks good with your face, your style and personal taste. I had always thought my head was not suited for a hat and it was amazing to see, after trying several on, that the right one will really make the difference in your looks, I have received so many compliments-all positive. If your near Tulsa, go see Jamel and Red-they will take good care of you.
If only I saw this article earlier!
I’m a short, heavy-set (think: Al Capone) guy, and recently went to a wedding wearing a dark blue pinstriped suit, and couldn’t find a decent hat. After a small amount of photoshopping, I found that a grey fedora would have completed me, while I was stuck with the strange feeling that my head was on display in a museum or something like that.
I’ve been shopping around for a decent hat since then, thanks for the info man!
Hats are a great fashion accessory but sadly the art of hat wearing was a disappearing art. Also hats protect well against the elements. Great to see this site & know what & how to wear hats. I’m getting my friends onto it!
Which Hat to get? I have Dark brown hair with a pale complexion. The suits I would most likely wear it with are a light khaki suit and a seersucker suit.
I would probably get a fedora
@Ryan –
From my knowledge I’d recommend grey for your complexion and hair colour. It should also go with your seersucker. It’s not easy to get it wrong with grey. For the khaki suit I would go with either green or brown, try both on and see which better complements you. If you can only afford one (yeah I fall in that department quite commonly) then look at your wardrobe, personal taste and make a hard decision.
Hope this helps.
@Richard –
I just ordered a fedora from Gary White in Buffalo. He is truly an artist and one of only a handful who makes the finset quality hats in the world. If you cant come up with an excuse to visit Buffalo, I think he has a website. Here is an article a local paper wrote about him.
http://www.buffalorising.com/story/master_hatter_gary_white#SlideFrame_0
I enjoyed your article, but not quite sure which is my the sape of my face, beause it is thoroughly covered by a long beard.I really do lve wearing hats.
Fascinating article! I have about 120 hats and just can’t stop myself buying more! And, no, I don’t pay store prices, I find they are usually wool felt – and pretty shapeless. E-bay can produce amazing bargains – and i’ve bought about 30 from one particular seller. In my opinion he is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
I started wearing a trilby when I was 16 – some 60 years ago – and still feel great in one today. Ar 16 I felt very grown-up – while now at 75 I feel much younger.- something which no ratty, back-to-front baseball cap could ever do for me!
Keep up your good work – and let’s hope to see a real come-back.
Hats are making a comeback, or at least that is what we are witnessing in Portland, Maine. The cold weather has definitely brought many people into the Queen of Hats shop, finding a hat in an effort to stay warm. Let’s hope it continues!
Great to see all the comments.
Hats not only make a definite fashion statement, but are very practical, too. They help keep you warm in winter and cool in summer, keep the rain/snow off your head and face, and protect you from damaging UV light from the sun.
I got my first hat (a brown leather Minnetonka Outback hat) when I wanted something to keep the snow off of my glasses. I got used to it and wear a hat in most kinds of weather now.
I have a wide brim wool felt fedora I were specifically in the winter. Had it for years. Actually got it at an army surplus shop. Looks sharp with a leather jacket Indy style. Most of the rest of the year I wear ball caps or the occasional straw cowboy. A couple of my clients wear straw Panamas I like. I’ve been thinking about finding one for the summer. Western hats are regional and have to be fit to the face to avoid looking like a little boy playing cowboys and indians. I was given two Stetsons. The flatter Gambler style looks great on me. More fedora-like. The Ten Gallon makes my face look minuscule. A good hat seller can custom cut brim width to better suit your face.