
Up until the 1950’s men were rarely seen out and about without a hat sitting upon their head. Since that time, the wearing of hats has seen a precipitous decline. No one is precisely sure why. Some say the downfall of hats occurred when JFK did not wear a hat to his inauguration, thus forever branding them as uncool. This is an urban myth, however, as Kennedy did indeed don a hat that day. Another theory posits that the shrinking size of cars made wearing a hat while driving prohibitively difficult. Most likely, the demise of hats can simply be traced to changing styles and the ongoing trend towards a more casual look.
Yet hats are due for a full resurgence. Hats are both functional and stylish. They can cover a bad hair day, keep your head warm, and shade your eyes from the sun. They can also be worn to cover a receding hairline, which interestingly enough is why Frank Sinatra, an iconic hat wearer, start wearing one in the first place. They give you touch of class and sophistication, impart personality, and add an interesting and unique accent to your outfits. And hats are a sure-fire way to boost your confidence. A cool hat can quickly become your signature piece and give you extra swagger.
Of course men today still wear hats, but they are most often confined to ratty baseball caps, hippie beanie caps, or the thankfully almost extinct trucker hat. There is nothing wrong with these kinds of headpieces per se, but there are other hat options out there. So mix up your lids with these various options:
The Flat Cap

Photo by Menno Ophelia
The flat cap has a rounded shape, a small brim and a high back. Long associated with working class men in the UK, the flat cap can be a stylish way to add interest to a casual outfit. They can give your tired jeans and t-shirt look some unique style. Choose the more masculine flat cap over the similar, but rounder and puffier newsboy cap. The latter has been almost entirely co-opted by the ladies.
The Fedora

Fedoras were once considered de rigueur for men going out in public and a necessary accessory to formal and business attire. While once mainstream, a man in a fedora is now seen as a trendsetter. Fedoras are soft, usually made of felt, creased lengthwise down the crown, and pinched on both sides. Obviously you cannot pair a fedora with jeans and a polo. They are only an appropriate accent for dressier outfits. But the pay off-loads of style, class, and confidence-make dressing up worth it. Fedoras will make you look manly and a bit mysterious. Worn by Prohibition era gangsters, almost all of the movie stars of the 1940’s, and Old Blue Eyes himself, donning a fedora puts you in touch with a truly luminous and manly heritage.
The Porkpie

Photo from The French Connection
Named for its resemblance to an actual pork pie, this hat is similar to a fedora but with a flat top instead of a pinched crown. The brim is also shorter and turned up. The hat is often associated with the jazz, blues, and ska culture, but was also worn by the likes of Robert Oppenheimer, father of the atom bomb.
The Homburg

Photo from The Godfather
The Homburg is another hat similar to the fedora. The Homburg’s brim lacks the fedora’s pinches, and is turned up all the way around. The hat is accented with a hatband into which a feather may be stuck. Less casual than a top hat, and dressier than a fedora, the Homburg was the go to lid for politicians and diplomats in the 20th century. Favored by the Godfather and resurrected by the likes of Snoop Dogg and Tupac, the Homburg now carries a distinctly gangster flavor.
The Bowler/Derby

Photo by Lainey’s Repertorie
Bowlers are hard, made of felt, and have very short brims. While considered a British icon, the bowler was also part of the urban culture of America in the 19th century. For example, one of the gangs that roamed the mean streets of New York City around this time were the Plug Uglies. The Uglies were never without their bowler hats which they wore both as their signature piece and to protect their heads during their many scuffles with rival gangs.
Wearing a Hat

Cock your hat–angles are attitudes. ~Frank Sinatra
Hats can give you a feeling of effortless cool and manly confidence. Few people loved hats more, or wore them better than Frank Sinatra. He was constantly playing with the idea of angling and tilting his hat to convey different attitudes. Here’s how Frank wore his hat to reflect his mood:
- Wear your hat pushed back to seem more open and accessible
- Tilt your hat over your eyes to seem mysterious and intimidating
- Tilt your hat up 1 inch from completely straight to project an all-business attitude
Hat Etiquette
In adopting the hat as your signature piece, you must also accept the responsibility of hat etiquette. Often ignored, hat etiquette will show that your uniqueness extends not only to you choice of headwear, but to your manners as well.
- Promptly remove your hat upon entering an elevator, restaurant, or someone’s home. Never wear your hat during a meal.
- Touch the brim of your hat lightly when greeting a friend.
- Raise the hat by the crown when meeting a female friend in public.
- Remove your hat during the national anthem and place it over your heart.
Header photo by Edieamber
If you liked this article, please bookmark it on del.icio.us or vote for it on Digg. I�d appreciate it.
Subscribe to Art of Manliness by RSS or email to get your FREE guide to being a gentleman in 2008.



Facebook









<
{ 41 trackbacks }
{ 163 comments… read them below or add one }
← Previous Comments
I can’t stand twats who don’t remove their hat during national anthems. And not just their own. If you’re at a sporting event or somewhere where they play multiple anthems, take your hat off and remain standing for all anthems. It’s a sign of respect.
Great article. Just want to second that Summer-wear for anywhere warm should include a straw Panama hat. Can be worn with anything other than a T-shirt. And why wear a T-shirt in public anyway?
Awesome article!
I spent a year looking for a good fedora – I have a big head, and could never find anything bigger then a medium. Finally, I was a Virgin Records in Hollywood (just before they closed down) and found an amazing black w/white pinstripes fedora made by Quicksilver. It has their logo embroidered (sp?) on the left side, just before the pinch and a smaller silver logo on the band above the brim.
I wear it pretty much everywhere I go – when I’m at work it hangs off the corner of my monitor (which only works if you have some form of flat panel) and looks very slick. At home it hangs off the corner of a chair behind my computer – again, looking very slick. Being in Southern California it’s mostly used to keep the sun out of my eyes, but on the few occasions when it’s actually rained it’s been a life saver.
Every man looks good in some kind of hat, the trick is being confident in what you wear. My first real hat (other than baseball caps) is a black flat cap that I still wear year round in all weather. Now I have a paper/straw fedora for summer and spring. For whatever reason, people respect a man who knows how to wear a hat and wear it well. I see a lot of people today trying to look hip with their “fashion” hats, and end up looking like they are wearing a costume. Probably because they are. After all, function comes first, and style follows naturally. Both of my hats have a purpose, and damn if I don’t look good wearing them because of it.
Opinions? By the way they are Hombergs. I also got a bowler from my inlaws.
The only other hat I usually wear is my top hat to go with my white tie.
I appreciate advice on this.
To Adam above – If you’re looking for an alternative to the baseball cap but still want to stay casual and convenient, I’d recommend the patrol cap (look it up on Wikipedia). It’s a military-infuenced soft hat with a flat top and a short, stiff brim at the front. I’ve got a great brown one with a little plaid in it and I find it extremely versatile for everything up to (but not including) business casual dress. I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone over 40 though. And it should go without saying that you don’t wear it backwards.
If I need to dress it up a little more, then I’ve got a flat cap made from a white/red/black check wool that’s classy, but distinctive. That being said, I’d love to get a nice Trilby or bowler that I could wear with a jacket or even a suit.
Like some other posters, I wonder why you didn’t mention the hats being worn today in the south. I have a Stetson black felt hat which is a necessity for an evening out in the C&W dance club scene, and a nice summer straw hat too.
A friend of mine wears a hat. He chose it for its practicality, as direct light (even from overhead fixtures) in his eyes bothers him. But it has become his signature piece. Reminding my wife who he was, I just had to mention “with the hat”.
Another practical hat around here is the beach hat. A wide brim keeps the sun off my face and neck, and it has a flat top but features a band of mesh around the can sides, for airflow. It’s really the only thing that “goes with” shorts and T-shirt other than a baseball cap which gets hot and doesn’t protect the neck.
I would be interested in reading more about hat etiquite. For example, what about a work situation? I typically wear my hat inside, and remove it when I get to my actual office, but I have no idea if this is correct. Also, there was a post above lamenting about the nuisance of hats, as there is no longer a place to put them. I would hear what people have to say for advice in this situation. I would love to see a follow-up post with more details about wearing a hat properly in this modern era. I feel the complaint about the hat being outdated is only true insomuch as hat etiquite is outdated — but that doesn’t mean we can’t come up with modern hat etiquite!
I understand your argument for dressing a bit higher than necessary, and I could wear a light suit for work, but I’m outside for most of the afternoon (in Houston – 100% humidity and 95+ degrees all summer), and I tend to get a bit dirty, so it’d be a very expensive habit for me. I have company-provided polos, and my jeans wear mild grease stains fairly well, so I feel that’s most appropriate.
What kind of hat would be appropriate for sun protection, while still fitting in a business-casual atmosphere?
I’ve been wearing a hat since the late 80’s. Felt fedora for cold weather, Tilley for outdoor action, floral porkpie to go with my Hawaiian shirts, driving caps, ball caps for yard work and sports, and a succession of disappointing straw hats.
Can anyone recommend how to find a good straw that doesn’t scratch up your forehead? The key is clearly the headband, but they all seem to be disposable, with no staying power.
Hi Tommy Phillips, I have a Columbia Livin Large Straw Hat. It has a really nice band, and works very well, even in mild windy situations. It even looks pretty smart.
I had a Ridgeway Cap (similar to a patrol cap) for years and years until it accidentally went through the wash and was destroyed.
Tommy Phillips,
Some good straw hats for you:
Affordable, very good, I have several – http://www.sunbody.com.
Probably the best anywhere, haven’t got one myself (yet) – http://www.brentblack.com
Regards,
Casey
← Previous Comments